350z SpeedView Fitting Guide
350z SpeedView Fitting Guide
So it comes with 3 wires
Power, ground, and the VSS (vehicle Speed Sensor) wire.
The easiest and simplest of places to attach them to is the Unified Meter and A/C Amp' unit which is a large white unit under the stereo.
To get to this you have to remove the center console, which is VERY easy to do takes a few minutes but again easy to to do
You dont have to remove the whole center console - just the bottom part, so you can get to the white box - which is the Unified Meter and A/C Amp' unit - then unscrew this (via the screws underneath) and pull it forward. You'll be able to see that the wiring harness behind this is clipped into the mounting unit using a little popper, so you'll need to undo this with some pliers so you can pull it forward more.
once it is out you need to make the connection now the kit comes with a variation on Scotch Locks these seem more durable although i hate them i have used them for now for 2 simple reasons
1. its a pain to get in there with a soldering iron without taking all of the centre console out
2. i always get the units running 1st using crimps etc once i know they are stable and have lasted a few months i will solder the joints....
So onto the connections
The VSS wire is found on the middle plug (grey - M49), and is pin 26 - which if you're looking down on it is the top row, 3rd hole from the left.
![[Image: 4b8a298c.jpg]](http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m330/Rabster_2008/350Z/4b8a298c.jpg)
So, i had to splice into this cable, and also chose pins 22 and 29 for the power and ground feeds. This makes the unit switch on when the key is turned to position 2.
12v ignition feed was found on the yellow wire
Ground was found on the black wire
![[Image: d459af09.jpg]](http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m330/Rabster_2008/350Z/d459af09.jpg)
I have temporarily brought my cable out and across the car so it could be positioned behind the speedo pointing at the screen
![[Image: 643521ca.jpg]](http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m330/Rabster_2008/350Z/643521ca.jpg)
I don't have any pics of the final location as im yet to configure it up and mount it but that's how to get it working in the car.....
Ok so i thought it was about time to get this fitted, the kit comes with some very clear instructions but if im honest if you cant wire 3 simple wires in you shouldn't be attempting this :lol:
So it comes with 3 wires
Power, ground, and the VSS (vehicle Speed Sensor) wire.
The easiest and simplest of places to attach them to is the Unified Meter and A/C Amp' unit which is a large white unit under the stereo.
To get to this you have to remove the center console, which is VERY easy to do takes a few minutes but again easy to to do
You dont have to remove the whole center console - just the bottom part, so you can get to the white box - which is the Unified Meter and A/C Amp' unit - then unscrew this (via the screws underneath) and pull it forward. You'll be able to see that the wiring harness behind this is clipped into the mounting unit using a little popper, so you'll need to undo this with some pliers so you can pull it forward more.
once it is out you need to make the connection now the kit comes with a variation on Scotch Locks these seem more durable although i hate them i have used them for now for 2 simple reasons
1. its a pain to get in there with a soldering iron without taking all of the centre console out
2. i always get the units running 1st using crimps etc once i know they are stable and have lasted a few months i will solder the joints....
So onto the connections
The VSS wire is found on the middle plug (grey - M49), and is pin 26 - which if you're looking down on it is the top row, 3rd hole from the left.
So, i had to splice into this cable, and also chose pins 22 and 29 for the power and ground feeds. This makes the unit switch on when the key is turned to position 2.
12v ignition feed was found on the yellow wire
Ground was found on the black wire
I have temporarily brought my cable out and across the car so it could be positioned behind the speedo pointing at the screen
I don't have any pics of the final location as im yet to configure it up and mount it but that's how to get it working in the car.....
Quote:the kit comes with a variation on Scotch Locks these seem more durable although i hate them i have used them
:laugh:
I know what you mean there - but I include them for these reasons:
If you're a pro, you'll bin whichever connector I supply anyway.
If you're a newbie to wiring, they're the safest option:
You can't melt things whilst trying to fit them
No sharp objects are required to fit them
You don't cut the original wires
The joint is always fully insulated
Worst case, your speedview wire falls out, but once it does it isn't powered anyway.
Compared to the horror-jobs I've seen with yellow/red/blue type crimps, choclate-box type screw terminals, bad soldering, or twisted wires it seemed the least-worst option! :blink:
They're the genuine 3M ones by the way, rather than the absolute cheapos from Halfords. Smaller bodies than normal so better in bundles of wires. Trickier to close mind, but once close stay closed.
What's the long term plan for wire routing? Drop between dash and screen then along the gearbox tunnel? Across the dash, dip down the A-pillar, then under the dash again? How did the P-8 F100 adjustment work out?
--
Marko
Quote:the kit comes with a variation on Scotch Locks these seem more durable although i hate them i have used them
:laugh:
I know what you mean there - but I include them for these reasons:
If you're a pro, you'll bin whichever connector I supply anyway.
If you're a newbie to wiring, they're the safest option:
You can't melt things whilst trying to fit them
No sharp objects are required to fit them
You don't cut the original wires
The joint is always fully insulated
Worst case, your speedview wire falls out, but once it does it isn't powered anyway.
Compared to the horror-jobs I've seen with yellow/red/blue type crimps, choclate-box type screw terminals, bad soldering, or twisted wires it seemed the least-worst option! :blink:
They're the genuine 3M ones by the way, rather than the absolute cheapos from Halfords. Smaller bodies than normal so better in bundles of wires. Trickier to close mind, but once close stay closed.
What's the long term plan for wire routing? Drop between dash and screen then along the gearbox tunnel? Across the dash, dip down the A-pillar, then under the dash again? How did the P-8 F100 adjustment work out?
--
Marko
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