Stoney's Supercharger Thread
Stoney's Supercharger Thread
Stoney That's what I thought. Think I will stick to spray paint. Would the same stuff be good for charger, pipes and FMIC?
Stoney That's what I thought. Think I will stick to spray paint. Would the same stuff be good for charger, pipes and FMIC?
Thanks for all the advice guys. I went down to my local independent motor-factor shop and got some paint today. After much discussion with the guy in their I went for a heat resistant engine paint, for the charger and pipes, and a finer, lighter paint for the FMIC...
Also a new 2 tonne trolley jack while I was there, and a couple litres of De-ionised water, as the batteries in both cars would both benefit from a top up. At £30 +VAT for the lot, I am happy. (The jack alone would cost that in Halfords, I expect!) The guy was kind enough to give me trade price, although I not a trade customer! Great service all round, and if anybody is looking for parts in Exeter, go to ASL Motor Spares! Next task will be to remove the kit and prepare it for painting.
So... next question... I might as well fit the de-catted manifold I have before the charger, so will I need new gaskets etc. to do this?
Read up the details on the can for that heat resistant paint. A lot need to be baked on, i.e get the engine warm. I find a lot of the heat resistant paints come out very matte and chalky. I always favour hammerite, even on engine blocks, although the spray cans are rubbish, it comes out like water.
Yes on the exhaust front you will definately need new gaskets all round. The manifolds are a pain to change, as you have to disconnect the steering knuckle from the rack. Also expect a couple of rather rusty or seized bolts
Hurricane Read up the details on the can for that heat resistant paint. A lot need to be baked on, i.e get the engine warm. I find a lot of the heat resistant paints come out very matte and chalky. I always favour hammerite, even on engine blocks, although the spray cans are rubbish, it comes out like water.
Yes on the exhaust front you will definately need new gaskets all round. The manifolds are a pain to change, as you have to disconnect the steering knuckle from the rack. Also expect a couple of rather rusty or seized bolts
Hurricane Read up the details on the can for that heat resistant paint. A lot need to be baked on, i.e get the engine warm. I find a lot of the heat resistant paints come out very matte and chalky. I always favour hammerite, even on engine blocks, although the spray cans are rubbish, it comes out like water.
Yes on the exhaust front you will definately need new gaskets all round. The manifolds are a pain to change, as you have to disconnect the steering knuckle from the rack. Also expect a couple of rather rusty or seized bolts
I'll have to pass on the gaskets, i cant remember what connection they have on the downpipe. I would get the gaskets from toyota, they arnt that expensive, and you know they will last. Nothing worse than having to remove the manifold after a month because the cheap gaskets have blown
Manifold sounds like hassle, and I'm trying to get a lot done in a little time, so maybe it can wait.
Making progress though. Have the kit at home now, though the cradle looked a biatch, and I was limited for time (and it was raining) so I left it, for now, though happy with what I managed to grab in an hour or so. Can now start to prep it for painting. Think I will change the oil in the charger too, to be safe.
Right, so the cradle is causing me problems! I cannot remove the front lower bracket to the engine, one big bolt (19mm, I think) and two allen bolts. I just can't get access to them with a socket wrench, and do not have a 19mm spanner, I cannot access the allen bolts with a socket wrench either (my usual method) and cannot get enough torque using a normal allen key to move them! Starting to panic a bit now, as very limited time (and limited access to the car) to get this sorted before JAE! Should I be looking to get at it from below instead of above? Any ideas anyone?
The pulley is also causing problems due to access (the one on the engine, not the one on the charger) but I think that may be because the rad has been pushed back due to crash damage, and will hopefully be ok if I remove the rad. Fingers crossed.
You need a wibbly-wobbly joint for the 19mm one, and 2 extensions.
as for the allen key, can you not slide a metal bar over the allen ket (jack handle maybe) to get you extra leverage?
Sparkystav You need a wibbly-wobbly joint for the 19mm one, and 2 extensions.
as for the allen key, can you not slide a metal bar over the allen ket (jack handle maybe) to get you extra leverage?
Sparkystav You need a wibbly-wobbly joint for the 19mm one, and 2 extensions.
as for the allen key, can you not slide a metal bar over the allen ket (jack handle maybe) to get you extra leverage?
So we're not doing your charger at jae?need to know so I can bring tools..