Bleeding Mr2 tips needed please
Bleeding Mr2 tips needed please
Can anyone give me some tips on getting rid of air locks in an MR2 Mk2 Turbo.
I have a rev1 with an overheating problem. I do have the full maintenance manual with instructions on how to bleed the system. I would like to know if there are any tricks you know of, or experiences you guys have had to help me with my cooling system.
I either have an air lock, blocked rad. and/or faulty thermostat I reckon.!
There's no oil in cooling system or water in oil so the head gasket's OK thank God.
Just bought the car, but it's been sat for about 3 years and the rad. bleed tap was leaking so the cooling system was not full when i first viewed it.
Engine runs as sweet as a nut though, just boils when you give it some throttle.
Hope you can help.
Cheers Sturat
Hi,
Can anyone give me some tips on getting rid of air locks in an MR2 Mk2 Turbo.
I have a rev1 with an overheating problem. I do have the full maintenance manual with instructions on how to bleed the system. I would like to know if there are any tricks you know of, or experiences you guys have had to help me with my cooling system.
I either have an air lock, blocked rad. and/or faulty thermostat I reckon.!
There's no oil in cooling system or water in oil so the head gasket's OK thank God.
Just bought the car, but it's been sat for about 3 years and the rad. bleed tap was leaking so the cooling system was not full when i first viewed it.
Engine runs as sweet as a nut though, just boils when you give it some throttle.
Hope you can help.
Cheers Sturat
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
28-12-2017, 12:46 PM #2Hang on for toxo, he will see you right. It is not straight forward on the mr2.
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
![[Image: ormiedit1-2.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/ormiedit1-2.jpg)
TTE supercharger,pr0lex manifold,hks fcd,larger intercooler,apexi induction kit,silicone hose kit,IK22's,polished engine parts,TTE front bumper mod'd for intercooler,TRD side skirts,TRD rear lip,JDM headlights and fogs,10k hid headlights 8k full beam,L8XSS p/plate,fog/brake/light conversion,18"fox rs's,lowered 90mm(f)100mm®,moleys under bars,yellow trd anti rollbars,full stainless exhaust,carbon fiber intake plus so much more
its a pain in the a55....have you still got the bleeding tubes?they are attached to the bleeders under the plastic covers....
TTE supercharger,pr0lex manifold,hks fcd,larger intercooler,apexi induction kit,silicone hose kit,IK22's,polished engine parts,TTE front bumper mod'd for intercooler,TRD side skirts,TRD rear lip,JDM headlights and fogs,10k hid headlights 8k full beam,L8XSS p/plate,fog/brake/light conversion,18"fox rs's,lowered 90mm(f)100mm®,moleys under bars,yellow trd anti rollbars,full stainless exhaust,carbon fiber intake plus so much more
To do a complete flush you need about 13L of coolant, and it has to be ethylene glycol coolant. You can use Toyota stuff (it's pretty cheap) or you can use Halfords neat stuff and distilled water (unless you have a cheap supply of distilled water this works out about as expensive as Toyota premixed). Whatever you do don't let tap water anywhere near it.
There are 2 different version of the procedures, the Toyota one which says to keep the car as level as possible, and the other one which says to jack the back of the car up as much as possible. To be honest I find combining both works best to get all the air out.
Toyota guide is here: http://www.lovehorsepower.com/bgb/mechan...stem/3.htm
Alternative guide is here: http://www.mrtwo.net/mr2modproject/servi...flush1.htm
http://www.mrtwo.net/mr2modproject/servi...flush2.htm
Note they are replacing their ethylene glycol coolant with NPG in this guide, you can ignore those steps.
Things to note:
Remember to set your heater control to HOT - if you don't you will get an airlock in the heater matrix.
The engine drain bolt is a pain in the **** to get to and not totally essential if you're just bleeding. It's on the back of the block (nearest the boot), quite high up near cylinder #4 (so gearbox end).
If once you're done, the coolant is not level in the 2 clear pipes you've attached in the frunk and at the same level as the radiator cap in the engine bay, then YOU STILL HAVE AIR in the system.
Perform the process on as flat a surface as possible, so that when you do run the engine for 10 minutes with the rad cap on the first click, the system is level.
That's all that springs to mind at the moment. I've got to do it myself at the weekend...
If that doesn't help then there are a list of things that can cause airlocks to develop (like the heater pipes from hell) which we can run through :thumbup1:
Edit: ****, I should've read your first post... you wanted to know about bleeding not draining and replacing! It's late...
You need 2 50cm lengths of clear hose... I can't remember the exact size but I think it's 8MM ID. You can buy it from B&Q quite cheaply.
To do a complete flush you need about 13L of coolant, and it has to be ethylene glycol coolant. You can use Toyota stuff (it's pretty cheap) or you can use Halfords neat stuff and distilled water (unless you have a cheap supply of distilled water this works out about as expensive as Toyota premixed). Whatever you do don't let tap water anywhere near it.
There are 2 different version of the procedures, the Toyota one which says to keep the car as level as possible, and the other one which says to jack the back of the car up as much as possible. To be honest I find combining both works best to get all the air out.
Toyota guide is here: http://www.lovehorsepower.com/bgb/mechan...stem/3.htm
Alternative guide is here: http://www.mrtwo.net/mr2modproject/servi...flush1.htm
http://www.mrtwo.net/mr2modproject/servi...flush2.htm
Note they are replacing their ethylene glycol coolant with NPG in this guide, you can ignore those steps.
Things to note:
Remember to set your heater control to HOT - if you don't you will get an airlock in the heater matrix.
The engine drain bolt is a pain in the **** to get to and not totally essential if you're just bleeding. It's on the back of the block (nearest the boot), quite high up near cylinder #4 (so gearbox end).
If once you're done, the coolant is not level in the 2 clear pipes you've attached in the frunk and at the same level as the radiator cap in the engine bay, then YOU STILL HAVE AIR in the system.
Perform the process on as flat a surface as possible, so that when you do run the engine for 10 minutes with the rad cap on the first click, the system is level.
That's all that springs to mind at the moment. I've got to do it myself at the weekend...
If that doesn't help then there are a list of things that can cause airlocks to develop (like the heater pipes from hell) which we can run through :thumbup1:
Edit: ****, I should've read your first post... you wanted to know about bleeding not draining and replacing! It's late...
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
29-12-2017, 01:07 AM #5If that's not worth rep points I don't know what is!!
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
Just bought a thermostat and started flushing the system, so your reply was perfect!!!
Got a flat with damp problems so dehumidifiers are on constantly, hence i've got cheap de-mineralized water (if you ignore my electricity bill that is!!)
Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cheers Toxo,
Just bought a thermostat and started flushing the system, so your reply was perfect!!!
Got a flat with damp problems so dehumidifiers are on constantly, hence i've got cheap de-mineralized water (if you ignore my electricity bill that is!!)
Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Also Halfords sells 2 types of coolant and only one of them is the right stuff (I think they refer to it as Halfords Advanced). To be totally honest, even Toyota Forlife boils in an MR2 turbo even if you drive off boost for the last 5 miles / 10 minutes of your journey. The boiling point of ethylene glycol coolant is about 124 degrees centigrade, and you can see as high as 142 in the waterways of the turbo housing a few minutes after you've shut the car down. This is simply a byproduct of having the coolant system effectively running through the exhaust manifold and Toyota clearly didn't deem it to be a problem.
There's also a new type of Toyota coolant now, which is pink rather than red. It's meant to last 100,000 miles before it requires replacement, and Toyota have been told that they are meant to use it over the red stuff (supposedly some garages carried on using the red ForLife (which is now called LongLife incidentaly) so that their customers had to come back for servicing more frequently). At least that's what I've been told. I'm sure ormi could shed some light on the subject :lol:
I remember being a bit scared about the amount of pressure required to get the 2 bolts out of the pipes underneath the car. They've never seen any salt or water though as long as your undertrays are intact so they won't have corroded.
Also Halfords sells 2 types of coolant and only one of them is the right stuff (I think they refer to it as Halfords Advanced). To be totally honest, even Toyota Forlife boils in an MR2 turbo even if you drive off boost for the last 5 miles / 10 minutes of your journey. The boiling point of ethylene glycol coolant is about 124 degrees centigrade, and you can see as high as 142 in the waterways of the turbo housing a few minutes after you've shut the car down. This is simply a byproduct of having the coolant system effectively running through the exhaust manifold and Toyota clearly didn't deem it to be a problem.
There's also a new type of Toyota coolant now, which is pink rather than red. It's meant to last 100,000 miles before it requires replacement, and Toyota have been told that they are meant to use it over the red stuff (supposedly some garages carried on using the red ForLife (which is now called LongLife incidentaly) so that their customers had to come back for servicing more frequently). At least that's what I've been told. I'm sure ormi could shed some light on the subject :lol:
I've already bought red coolant, flushed the system, taken off the radiator and back flushed it with water; changed the thermostat and filled the system with new coolant.
Jacking up the back definitely helps to get rid of the airlocks!
After reading your last post, I recon next time I flush the system I'll use orange!!
If you change your coolant for the new orange stuff please let me know if it makes a lot of difference.
You r a Star!!!!!!!!
That will stop me worrying so much if i hear the coolant bubbling again.
I've already bought red coolant, flushed the system, taken off the radiator and back flushed it with water; changed the thermostat and filled the system with new coolant.
Jacking up the back definitely helps to get rid of the airlocks!
After reading your last post, I recon next time I flush the system I'll use orange!!
If you change your coolant for the new orange stuff please let me know if it makes a lot of difference.
You r a Star!!!!!!!!
Where did I mention orange :lol:
It's good that you've flushed the radiator, I never bothered. The only other thing you could do to be really sure you're clean is flush out the heater matrix. That's detailed in the mrtwo.net links that I posted, but it won't help with airlocks, it will just ensure you have all the old coolant out. You can unbolt the overflow bottle and remove/clean/reinstall but it's a ******* of a job to do, has to be done from underneath and you have to move the fusebox I think.
Where did I mention orange :lol:
Flip the cute lil car onto it's side using a spatula, dunk it in a pan of water and when it stops bubbling there's probably no air in it. Remove from cauldron and strain using colander (preferably matching the colour to car for extra coolness) then drive around until dry
But life is much easier with a broomstick [/COLOR]
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] [COLOR="DarkOrchid"]That symbol on the side of my door.. Definition by FirebirdPhil 'Translated it means -
"try to overtake - go on give it a go I dare you......." [/COLOR]
I'm not an Outlaw; I'm a Poutlaw! Purple Supras are the bestest! I love purple .. a lot lot lot
purplewitch
29-12-2017, 02:35 AM #10[COLOR="DarkOrchid"]The witchanics reply would be:
Flip the cute lil car onto it's side using a spatula, dunk it in a pan of water and when it stops bubbling there's probably no air in it. Remove from cauldron and strain using colander (preferably matching the colour to car for extra coolness) then drive around until dry
But life is much easier with a broomstick [/COLOR]
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] [COLOR="DarkOrchid"]That symbol on the side of my door.. Definition by FirebirdPhil 'Translated it means -
"try to overtake - go on give it a go I dare you......." [/COLOR]
I'm not an Outlaw; I'm a Poutlaw! Purple Supras are the bestest! I love purple .. a lot lot lot
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