Lost a few captive nuts
Lost a few captive nuts
I'm looking at ways of fixing this. So far the suggestions I've got are:
Cut a small access section out of the chassis rail, weld some new nuts inside, weld the chassis rail up with some reinforcement. I DON'T LIKE THIS OPTION!!
Insert rivet nuts into the chassis rail where the captive nuts used to be. I like this option, but are rivet nuts strong enough? Obviously I'd go for steel ones not aluminium ones.
Weld a stud inplace of the missing nut, and use a nut instead of a bolt to bolt the suspension up. Not so keen on that as I see it as being a difficult place to weld to.
Weld a plate onto the chassis rail with 2 holes through to the existing nuts, and 2 new nuts in place of the missing ones. I think this alters the suspension geometry too much (basically the arm will sit lower by the thickness of the plate).
Could those of you with engineering experience suggest how to move forward?
There's a front suspension arm on my car that bolts to the chassis rail with 4 chunky M8 bolts with big spreader washers. There are 4 corresponding captive nuts inside the chassis rail. On my car 2 of these captive nuts are missing. The missing nuts are both on the same side of the rail, allowing the plate that bolts to it to flex down the middle.
I'm looking at ways of fixing this. So far the suggestions I've got are:
Cut a small access section out of the chassis rail, weld some new nuts inside, weld the chassis rail up with some reinforcement. I DON'T LIKE THIS OPTION!!
Insert rivet nuts into the chassis rail where the captive nuts used to be. I like this option, but are rivet nuts strong enough? Obviously I'd go for steel ones not aluminium ones.
Weld a stud inplace of the missing nut, and use a nut instead of a bolt to bolt the suspension up. Not so keen on that as I see it as being a difficult place to weld to.
Weld a plate onto the chassis rail with 2 holes through to the existing nuts, and 2 new nuts in place of the missing ones. I think this alters the suspension geometry too much (basically the arm will sit lower by the thickness of the plate).
Could those of you with engineering experience suggest how to move forward?
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
10-03-2018, 03:19 AM #2Picture?
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] [COLOR="DarkOrchid"]That symbol on the side of my door.. Definition by FirebirdPhil 'Translated it means -
"try to overtake - go on give it a go I dare you......." [/COLOR]
I'm not an Outlaw; I'm a Poutlaw! Purple Supras are the bestest! I love purple .. a lot lot lot
purplewitch
10-03-2018, 03:55 AM #4engineering experience ? hmm... what about witchineering experience ?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] [COLOR="DarkOrchid"]That symbol on the side of my door.. Definition by FirebirdPhil 'Translated it means -
"try to overtake - go on give it a go I dare you......." [/COLOR]
I'm not an Outlaw; I'm a Poutlaw! Purple Supras are the bestest! I love purple .. a lot lot lot
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
10-03-2018, 04:21 AM #5You know my 1st reply was something along the gaffer tape and super glue lines...... I decided to leave that post to the witch..........
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
This is the bracket (the shiny new black bit) bolted up to the chassis rail:
![[Image: IMGP2490.JPG]](http://theshado.ws/images/imoc/cuscoArms/IMGP2490.JPG)
As you can see it supports the full force of the leading strut arm.
This is a shot from the ground upwards showing one of the holes where there should be a bolt and a captive nut - the other missing one is obscured by the blue arm.
![[Image: IMGP2492.JPG]](http://theshado.ws/images/imoc/cuscoArms/IMGP2492.JPG)
This is the other side, with the bracket removed. There are 4 holes (again one of them is obscured in the photo) with a captive nut in each hole.
![[Image: IMGP2496.JPG]](http://theshado.ws/images/imoc/cuscoArms/IMGP2496.JPG)
The box section is all totally closed off, there's no way to get to the inside of it. I think rivet nuts are the way ahead here.
OK, some photos for you.
This is the bracket (the shiny new black bit) bolted up to the chassis rail:
As you can see it supports the full force of the leading strut arm.
This is a shot from the ground upwards showing one of the holes where there should be a bolt and a captive nut - the other missing one is obscured by the blue arm.
This is the other side, with the bracket removed. There are 4 holes (again one of them is obscured in the photo) with a captive nut in each hole.
The box section is all totally closed off, there's no way to get to the inside of it. I think rivet nuts are the way ahead here.
For those members who have never heard of them,,
http://www.enfasco.com/frame4.htm
rivet nuts mate, I have used them in the past and are more than capable of withstanding the required torque when tightening.
For those members who have never heard of them,,
http://www.enfasco.com/frame4.htm
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