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Bumper & skirt restoration thread

Bumper & skirt restoration thread

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sprinter2012
Posting Freak
2,484
13-08-2018, 03:09 PM
#11
I think I'll stick with that method, much easier and quicker Smile

I've got far too excited about fixing it up to sell it now. lol
sprinter2012
13-08-2018, 03:09 PM #11

I think I'll stick with that method, much easier and quicker Smile

I've got far too excited about fixing it up to sell it now. lol

Sparkystav
Administrator
14,683
13-08-2018, 03:11 PM
#12
Lol fair enough. Let me know how you get on with the filler as want to do some bits on my car so will be useful to know.

OutlawJapClub Admin Team
Sparkystav
13-08-2018, 03:11 PM #12

Lol fair enough. Let me know how you get on with the filler as want to do some bits on my car so will be useful to know.


OutlawJapClub Admin Team

sprinter2012
Posting Freak
2,484
13-08-2018, 03:40 PM
#13
My research on fillers has brought me to the following conclusions...

3M seems to be the one brand that has everything required.

The list of items I can see myself needing to fully fix the bumper is as follows:

3M 2 Part Epoxy Adhesive - Flexible filler/adhesive for external smoothing of cracks/dents

3M Automix Superfast Plastic Adhesive - Plastic in a tube, cures solid in about 5 minutes, and can then be drilled for rebuilding broken tabs etc.

3M Polyolefin Adhesion Promoter - To make stuff stick

3M Automix Instant Plastic Repair Patch - Basically a large patch made of 3M VHB tape to stick on the back of cracks, supports the crack to allow filling from the front.

Comes to a total of about £80, plus a few other bits like sand paper and cloths etc.

EDIT: Does anyone have an account with 3M or know someone that does? As I can only find one place that sells all this stuff, and 3M direct have it marked as 'for sale to businesses only'
Edited 25-09-2011, 01:21 AM by sprinter2012.
sprinter2012
13-08-2018, 03:40 PM #13

My research on fillers has brought me to the following conclusions...

3M seems to be the one brand that has everything required.

The list of items I can see myself needing to fully fix the bumper is as follows:

3M 2 Part Epoxy Adhesive - Flexible filler/adhesive for external smoothing of cracks/dents

3M Automix Superfast Plastic Adhesive - Plastic in a tube, cures solid in about 5 minutes, and can then be drilled for rebuilding broken tabs etc.

3M Polyolefin Adhesion Promoter - To make stuff stick

3M Automix Instant Plastic Repair Patch - Basically a large patch made of 3M VHB tape to stick on the back of cracks, supports the crack to allow filling from the front.

Comes to a total of about £80, plus a few other bits like sand paper and cloths etc.

EDIT: Does anyone have an account with 3M or know someone that does? As I can only find one place that sells all this stuff, and 3M direct have it marked as 'for sale to businesses only'

sprinter2012
Posting Freak
2,484
14-08-2018, 04:07 AM
#14
Also, does anyone know how far back I need to go with the prep work before its 'paint ready' i.e. do I need to go right back to the plastic? Or literally just rough up the top layer? Or somewhere in between?
sprinter2012
14-08-2018, 04:07 AM #14

Also, does anyone know how far back I need to go with the prep work before its 'paint ready' i.e. do I need to go right back to the plastic? Or literally just rough up the top layer? Or somewhere in between?

jasons
Member
239
14-08-2018, 05:50 AM
#15
I did my TRD front lip this week, I used a plastic primer/bonder before the paint- did what it said in terms of bonding the top coat- just a light coat was needed.

J
jasons
14-08-2018, 05:50 AM #15

I did my TRD front lip this week, I used a plastic primer/bonder before the paint- did what it said in terms of bonding the top coat- just a light coat was needed.

J

sprinter2012
Posting Freak
2,484
14-08-2018, 06:06 AM
#16
jasons I did my TRD front lip this week, I used a plastic primer/bonder before the paint- did what it said in terms of bonding the top coat- just a light coat was needed.

J

I think those are the instructions the paintshop followed when they did my TTE front and rear. Although they were brand new in bare plastic. The Legana bumper and TRD side skirts I have now are already painted though.

Pretty much all the info I could find from google just said to go over the whole area with 400 grit wet and dry (used wet) and then just give it to the bodyshop like that. But I'll try to at least get down to the primer if I think it won't take days. As the bits I fill will need to be re-primered anyway so it makes sense that they start with it being in primer so it's all the same finish.
Edited 25-09-2011, 03:47 PM by sprinter2012.
sprinter2012
14-08-2018, 06:06 AM #16

jasons I did my TRD front lip this week, I used a plastic primer/bonder before the paint- did what it said in terms of bonding the top coat- just a light coat was needed.

J

I think those are the instructions the paintshop followed when they did my TTE front and rear. Although they were brand new in bare plastic. The Legana bumper and TRD side skirts I have now are already painted though.

Pretty much all the info I could find from google just said to go over the whole area with 400 grit wet and dry (used wet) and then just give it to the bodyshop like that. But I'll try to at least get down to the primer if I think it won't take days. As the bits I fill will need to be re-primered anyway so it makes sense that they start with it being in primer so it's all the same finish.

Rolex
Senior Member
512
15-08-2018, 04:28 AM
#17
The problem you have is any bumper is black does not show off the lines very well. If you have them in silver like patricks or red like mine you get a better idea of the curveture of the bumper.
You could try having the centre part red which may help with definition but the bottom line will still be the black just it gong to do you any favours.

This is the reason why i bought a silver s2000 as the black ones do not show any panel or body definition whats so ever.
Rolex
15-08-2018, 04:28 AM #17

The problem you have is any bumper is black does not show off the lines very well. If you have them in silver like patricks or red like mine you get a better idea of the curveture of the bumper.
You could try having the centre part red which may help with definition but the bottom line will still be the black just it gong to do you any favours.

This is the reason why i bought a silver s2000 as the black ones do not show any panel or body definition whats so ever.

sprinter2012
Posting Freak
2,484
15-08-2018, 08:48 AM
#18
I do agree with that, black cars do lose a lot of the definition in the curves which sucks a bit. Although it's still a great looking bumper even in black :biggrin:

I've been thinking about what colour mesh to use, maybe go for a dark grey? I think silver is just a bit too boy racer?
Edited 26-09-2011, 06:22 PM by sprinter2012.
sprinter2012
15-08-2018, 08:48 AM #18

I do agree with that, black cars do lose a lot of the definition in the curves which sucks a bit. Although it's still a great looking bumper even in black :biggrin:

I've been thinking about what colour mesh to use, maybe go for a dark grey? I think silver is just a bit too boy racer?

Rolex
Senior Member
512
16-08-2018, 07:51 AM
#19
you could paint it black then do orange or red pin striping to create hight lists to show the profile sort of the same thing as they did with the citreon 3DS
Rolex
16-08-2018, 07:51 AM #19

you could paint it black then do orange or red pin striping to create hight lists to show the profile sort of the same thing as they did with the citreon 3DS

sprinter2012
Posting Freak
2,484
23-08-2018, 12:28 PM
#20
Right latest update, work has begun on fixing up the bumper.

So far I've filled the holes where the bumper meets the fender, where it was cable tied on before. And also done a first fill (need to go over it again to fix some low spots) on a crack at the edge of the lower corner of the grille, which has also had 4 holes drilled so it could be cable tied together.

Holes near fender mounts with filler before sanding...

[Image: DSC00565.jpg]

And again after sanding...

[Image: DSC00569.jpg]

The large crack and it's 4 holes after prep for filling...

[Image: DSC00561.jpg]

A very blurry picture of the massive reinforcing patch that went behind the crack to strengthen it...

[Image: DSC00562.jpg]

The crack and holes filled...

[Image: DSC00564.jpg]

And then again, but after sanding...

[Image: DSC00568.jpg]

Also spent a little time straightening out a few bits with a heat gun because I'm a perfectionist. But it's coming along nicely, and if funds allow it I'll hopefully get it sprayed and fitted before the ace cafe meet Smile
Edited 04-10-2011, 10:03 PM by sprinter2012.
sprinter2012
23-08-2018, 12:28 PM #20

Right latest update, work has begun on fixing up the bumper.

So far I've filled the holes where the bumper meets the fender, where it was cable tied on before. And also done a first fill (need to go over it again to fix some low spots) on a crack at the edge of the lower corner of the grille, which has also had 4 holes drilled so it could be cable tied together.

Holes near fender mounts with filler before sanding...

[Image: DSC00565.jpg]

And again after sanding...

[Image: DSC00569.jpg]

The large crack and it's 4 holes after prep for filling...

[Image: DSC00561.jpg]

A very blurry picture of the massive reinforcing patch that went behind the crack to strengthen it...

[Image: DSC00562.jpg]

The crack and holes filled...

[Image: DSC00564.jpg]

And then again, but after sanding...

[Image: DSC00568.jpg]

Also spent a little time straightening out a few bits with a heat gun because I'm a perfectionist. But it's coming along nicely, and if funds allow it I'll hopefully get it sprayed and fitted before the ace cafe meet Smile

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