IS200 disc + pad swap.
IS200 disc + pad swap.
This Saturday I'm intending to swap all four brake disc's (And pads) on my IS200. The front's look pretty much like any other sliding calliper, So that shouldnt be a problem. Also, as the back end have drum type handbrakes buried behind the disc I'm assuming that I won't need any special "Wind back" tools to push the rear callipers pistons back........
Now, This is the point where I'd normally just have a quick prod through the cars Haynes manual, But as us IS200 owners are apparently all strange folk who don't want a 3 series BMW or a Mercedes C-class, Haynes has forsaken us in the whole user manual department due to our deviant behaviour!:Sulk::biggrin:
So, As I haven't even changed the pads on my '200 before I'm just wondering if there might be something I'm overlooking? Is the job as simple as I'm expecting, Or does anyone think there might be some aspect of it that's going to jump up and surprise me?
Thanks in advance for all replys...... Even if it's just to say that it's an easy job with no pitfalls.:tongue_smilie:
Scotty B.
Hi all, Just a quick precautionary question here.
This Saturday I'm intending to swap all four brake disc's (And pads) on my IS200. The front's look pretty much like any other sliding calliper, So that shouldnt be a problem. Also, as the back end have drum type handbrakes buried behind the disc I'm assuming that I won't need any special "Wind back" tools to push the rear callipers pistons back........
Now, This is the point where I'd normally just have a quick prod through the cars Haynes manual, But as us IS200 owners are apparently all strange folk who don't want a 3 series BMW or a Mercedes C-class, Haynes has forsaken us in the whole user manual department due to our deviant behaviour!:Sulk::biggrin:
So, As I haven't even changed the pads on my '200 before I'm just wondering if there might be something I'm overlooking? Is the job as simple as I'm expecting, Or does anyone think there might be some aspect of it that's going to jump up and surprise me?
Thanks in advance for all replys...... Even if it's just to say that it's an easy job with no pitfalls.:tongue_smilie:
Scotty B.
Rears again very simple, on the disc you'll see a little black rubber bung on the face of the hub/disc, this just pops out with a flat head screwdriver, locate the hole at the bottom so you can get access to the adjuster inside the rear hub, use a flat head screwdriver again and turn the cog/adjuster inside to release the shoes? will need a good torch to see through the little hole to locate it, when its wound off a bit the disc should pull off? (might need a little tap to release it), just have to remember to adjust the handbrake shoes back up to the disc after fitting the new ones,
The rear pads are also very easy, remove the split pin/clip that holds the slide bar/retainer on top of the caliper and tap it out, the pads pop out pretty easy, would advise giving the rear calipers a clean where the pads sit as they do get clogged up with dirt/brake dust :thumbup1:
If you get stuck mate, post up and i'm sure we'll be able to get you sorted :thumbup1:
Lexus IS200 Sport Navigator (Now being stripped again) :blink:
Now Don't Forget The REP!!!
Yes mate they are pretty easy to do, the fronts come apart very easy, can undo the caliper and carrier by undoing the 4 bolts on the back, pads come out very easy, disc's might have a cross head screw holding them on and might need a bit of a tap to release them, i used a good phillips screw driver and just gave the end a tap with a mallet to crack the seal, or could probably just give it a good soak with wd40 or similar?
Rears again very simple, on the disc you'll see a little black rubber bung on the face of the hub/disc, this just pops out with a flat head screwdriver, locate the hole at the bottom so you can get access to the adjuster inside the rear hub, use a flat head screwdriver again and turn the cog/adjuster inside to release the shoes? will need a good torch to see through the little hole to locate it, when its wound off a bit the disc should pull off? (might need a little tap to release it), just have to remember to adjust the handbrake shoes back up to the disc after fitting the new ones,
The rear pads are also very easy, remove the split pin/clip that holds the slide bar/retainer on top of the caliper and tap it out, the pads pop out pretty easy, would advise giving the rear calipers a clean where the pads sit as they do get clogged up with dirt/brake dust :thumbup1:
If you get stuck mate, post up and i'm sure we'll be able to get you sorted :thumbup1:
Lexus IS200 Sport Navigator (Now being stripped again) :blink:
Now Don't Forget The REP!!!
![[Image: tempsig2.jpg]](http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o227/84stoney/tempsig2.jpg)
ad: It was a tough call to make, but the Supercharged IS200 is being retired. ad:"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
14-06-2019, 10:20 PM #4Sounds exactly the same as the Gen 7 Celicas - they took me 1 hour for the fronts using a very basic tool set and using a proper socket set the rears were done in 3/4 hour. I had never worked on them before - the retaining pins were a PITA to remove but went back in with ease.
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
I only got the front's done today.
A couple of days ago I gave the new disc's a coating of black barbecue paint (Except for the mating surfaces) before fitting them. This stuff eventually turns grey and powders off, But at least I get 18 months to 2 years without crusty rust all around the unswept parts of the disc's and it does mean the cross drilling's and grooves stand out nicely (When I've bedded them in properly I'll get a picture on here to show what I mean).
I started on the drivers side. Every bolt was a pig to undo and both sliding pins were almost glued in place with Copaslip :cursing:. It took about 2 hours of swearing and threatening bolts with a big hammer to get it all to bits, Then about 20 minutes to clean everything up and reassemble with red rubber grease on the sliding pins and a Copaslip sandwich of anti squeal shims on the back of pads.
The passenger side came to bit's without any drama at all (A bit confused by that as this is the side that would normally be splashing through puddles and getting crudded up with rusty bolts..... Strange?!?!)
The only slightly odd thing I've noticed about the design of the front brakes so far is that the callipers bolt to the sliding pins. All the other variations of this idea I've seen have one piece pins with a screw thread just under the bolt head. This screws through the callipers mounting lugs from behind and the plain part of the pin goes into the hanger. The IS200 has pins that stay in the hangers and you bolt the callipers on to them. From a maintenance point of view this makes it ever so slightly easier to swap the pads. But with my engineers hat on, it looks a much weaker design than having one piece sliding pins. It must be up to the job because we don't see IS200's in every country hedgerow with the callipers wrapped around the wrong side of the disc's, But it just seems odd that Lexus would go for a slightly more costly and complicated design than the rest of the pack.
If the weather (And my back) holds out I'll do the rears tomorrow.
Scotty B.
Thanks for all the replies folks,
I only got the front's done today.
A couple of days ago I gave the new disc's a coating of black barbecue paint (Except for the mating surfaces) before fitting them. This stuff eventually turns grey and powders off, But at least I get 18 months to 2 years without crusty rust all around the unswept parts of the disc's and it does mean the cross drilling's and grooves stand out nicely (When I've bedded them in properly I'll get a picture on here to show what I mean).
I started on the drivers side. Every bolt was a pig to undo and both sliding pins were almost glued in place with Copaslip :cursing:. It took about 2 hours of swearing and threatening bolts with a big hammer to get it all to bits, Then about 20 minutes to clean everything up and reassemble with red rubber grease on the sliding pins and a Copaslip sandwich of anti squeal shims on the back of pads.
The passenger side came to bit's without any drama at all (A bit confused by that as this is the side that would normally be splashing through puddles and getting crudded up with rusty bolts..... Strange?!?!)
The only slightly odd thing I've noticed about the design of the front brakes so far is that the callipers bolt to the sliding pins. All the other variations of this idea I've seen have one piece pins with a screw thread just under the bolt head. This screws through the callipers mounting lugs from behind and the plain part of the pin goes into the hanger. The IS200 has pins that stay in the hangers and you bolt the callipers on to them. From a maintenance point of view this makes it ever so slightly easier to swap the pads. But with my engineers hat on, it looks a much weaker design than having one piece sliding pins. It must be up to the job because we don't see IS200's in every country hedgerow with the callipers wrapped around the wrong side of the disc's, But it just seems odd that Lexus would go for a slightly more costly and complicated design than the rest of the pack.
If the weather (And my back) holds out I'll do the rears tomorrow.
Scotty B.
What moron put copper grease on your sliders?! That's a recipie for disaster if ever I heard one!
It's a caliper design that Aisin / Toyota have been using for *years*. The parts are shared on a lot of cars, so it's a big chunk of retooling to fix a problem that as far as we know hasn't reared its head. Even if the caliper did come loose from the sliders, it wouldn't get that free as it'd be held captive by the carrier & the wheel
What moron put copper grease on your sliders?! That's a recipie for disaster if ever I heard one!
toxo What moron put copper grease on your sliders?! That's a recipie for disaster if ever I heard one!
God only knows, But at least it had SOMETHING on it. I had to get a replacement rear calliper for my MX5 once because someone fitted the pins DRY !!!!
The bottom pin was seized solid into the calliper and the top one had chewed it's way through the rubber insert bit.
I had to remove the calliper with the hanger still attached, Plugged up the brake pipe hole and dump the lot in a bucket of Deox-C for a week.
After that the pin almost fell out...... But it was a sort of oval profile..... And so was the female part of the slider in the calliper casting.
ad:Oh well.
Anyway, I fitted the rear disc's and pads yesterday and apart from breaking a socket while trying to get the wheel nuts off (Impact hammer payback from the local tyre fitters because I had the audacity to complain about all their stick on wheel weights flying off in under 5 miles...... Words will be had. :cursing
it all went very smoothly.I've now got that lovely scraping sound from the handbrake's backplate touching the discs on corners, But I'll tweak the plates with my Dremel in a few weeks when I get around to giving my callipers a clean up and a lick of paint.
Next job on my list is a stainless steel exhaust.
Anyone got any experience of the two main cheap types on Fleybay (The one with a round rear silencer that needs a boss welding in for the lambda sensor, Or the one that looks almost like a standard system but in stainless)?
My main concern is about how well they fit and sound level...... But if both would make my car sound like a flatulent chaved up 1.1 Corsa I might have to widen the search. :tongue_smilie:
Scotty B.
EDIT - Scratch the exhaust question, I've added a new thread to ask that here
toxo What moron put copper grease on your sliders?! That's a recipie for disaster if ever I heard one!
God only knows, But at least it had SOMETHING on it. I had to get a replacement rear calliper for my MX5 once because someone fitted the pins DRY !!!!
The bottom pin was seized solid into the calliper and the top one had chewed it's way through the rubber insert bit.
I had to remove the calliper with the hanger still attached, Plugged up the brake pipe hole and dump the lot in a bucket of Deox-C for a week.
After that the pin almost fell out...... But it was a sort of oval profile..... And so was the female part of the slider in the calliper casting.
ad:Oh well.
Anyway, I fitted the rear disc's and pads yesterday and apart from breaking a socket while trying to get the wheel nuts off (Impact hammer payback from the local tyre fitters because I had the audacity to complain about all their stick on wheel weights flying off in under 5 miles...... Words will be had. :cursing
it all went very smoothly.I've now got that lovely scraping sound from the handbrake's backplate touching the discs on corners, But I'll tweak the plates with my Dremel in a few weeks when I get around to giving my callipers a clean up and a lick of paint.
Next job on my list is a stainless steel exhaust.
Anyone got any experience of the two main cheap types on Fleybay (The one with a round rear silencer that needs a boss welding in for the lambda sensor, Or the one that looks almost like a standard system but in stainless)?
My main concern is about how well they fit and sound level...... But if both would make my car sound like a flatulent chaved up 1.1 Corsa I might have to widen the search. :tongue_smilie:
Scotty B.
EDIT - Scratch the exhaust question, I've added a new thread to ask that here
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