New Philips Xendrive HID Ballasts for D2S/D2R bulbs
New Philips Xendrive HID Ballasts for D2S/D2R bulbs
PHILIPS Xendrive XLD CK G4
Can-Bus Xenon HID Ballasts
Pair (2)
Brand new in original box which has been opened to check contents.
These are in my opinion the best aftermarket HID ballasts you can get.
Why? It's simple, Philips has a name and reputation synonym to quality and reliability.
The build quality, materials and quality control are much higher than the average low-cost ballasts available.
For example:
1. They use the ASIC chip that enables real-time bulb monitoring to compensate power requirements. This is a feature that only OEM ballasts use.
The HID bulb's power requirements change over time and without real-time power management, the ballast will overdrive the bulb causing it to fail quicker.
2. They are truly 35W, AC output. Beware of DC ballasts, they are cheap and will damage your HID bulbs much faster. HID is designed to run on AC.
3. They reach full output much faster than other aftermarket ballasts.
4. Very low failure rate compared to other aftermarket ballasts thanks to Philips' tight quality control.
Philips sell these kits primarily in Asia and they're pretty rare here in Europe.
These are 100% Genuine Philips products, purchased in the UK from an official, Philips Authorised Reseller (Autolamps Online), I have proof or recent purchase if required.
For your peace of mind, the box comes with a Philips Security Label that consists of a number which can be entered on Philips' Authentication website to check if the product is legit. I've checked the number against the website (http://www.philips.com/authenticity) and the product is genuine.
The output connectors of the ballasts are KET instead of AMP.
I will supply KET to D2(S/R) connectors with the kit, this will enable you to power D2S or D2R bulbs.
If you want to power aftermarket bulbs that come with AMP connectors you can get KET to AMP converters on eBay.
Box includes:
Two slim ballasts
Installation hardware
Installation instructions
You will find the product's leaflet on Philips' website:
http://download.p4c.philips.com/files/x/...ss_aen.pdf
£75 delivered
![[Image: IMG_0724_zps3093d12e.jpg]](http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq97/multics_R33/HID%20Retrofit/IMG_0724_zps3093d12e.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_0725_zps5c6f6068.jpg]](http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq97/multics_R33/HID%20Retrofit/IMG_0725_zps5c6f6068.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_0726_zpsf8af7652.jpg]](http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq97/multics_R33/HID%20Retrofit/IMG_0726_zpsf8af7652.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_0727_zps9b6c77d7.jpg]](http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq97/multics_R33/HID%20Retrofit/IMG_0727_zps9b6c77d7.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_0728_zpsbf43f674.jpg]](http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq97/multics_R33/HID%20Retrofit/IMG_0728_zpsbf43f674.jpg)
Lexus IS 250 SE-L
GENUINE
PHILIPS Xendrive XLD CK G4
Can-Bus Xenon HID Ballasts
Pair (2)
Brand new in original box which has been opened to check contents.
These are in my opinion the best aftermarket HID ballasts you can get.
Why? It's simple, Philips has a name and reputation synonym to quality and reliability.
The build quality, materials and quality control are much higher than the average low-cost ballasts available.
For example:
1. They use the ASIC chip that enables real-time bulb monitoring to compensate power requirements. This is a feature that only OEM ballasts use.
The HID bulb's power requirements change over time and without real-time power management, the ballast will overdrive the bulb causing it to fail quicker.
2. They are truly 35W, AC output. Beware of DC ballasts, they are cheap and will damage your HID bulbs much faster. HID is designed to run on AC.
3. They reach full output much faster than other aftermarket ballasts.
4. Very low failure rate compared to other aftermarket ballasts thanks to Philips' tight quality control.
Philips sell these kits primarily in Asia and they're pretty rare here in Europe.
These are 100% Genuine Philips products, purchased in the UK from an official, Philips Authorised Reseller (Autolamps Online), I have proof or recent purchase if required.
For your peace of mind, the box comes with a Philips Security Label that consists of a number which can be entered on Philips' Authentication website to check if the product is legit. I've checked the number against the website (http://www.philips.com/authenticity) and the product is genuine.
The output connectors of the ballasts are KET instead of AMP.
I will supply KET to D2(S/R) connectors with the kit, this will enable you to power D2S or D2R bulbs.
If you want to power aftermarket bulbs that come with AMP connectors you can get KET to AMP converters on eBay.
Box includes:
Two slim ballasts
Installation hardware
Installation instructions
You will find the product's leaflet on Philips' website:
http://download.p4c.philips.com/files/x/...ss_aen.pdf
£75 delivered
Lexus IS 250 SE-L
I've spend quite some time doing research and learning about HID lighting. I'm into HID retrofits, done it on all my cars plus for some friends over the years.
You've probably noticed the terms Digital and Analog Ballasts, AC and DC Ballasts etc.
There are 2 types of Analog Ballasts, AC and DC, while Digital Ballasts are only AC.
Digital - AC Ballasts are the mostly used now for a good price. Good Warm up time, A bit smaller and no flickering.
Analog - DC Ballasts are the worst. They are no longer made except by Chinese fake ballasts companies. Slow Warm up time, Less durable, Less reliable and may flicker.
Analog - AC are the best and are par with OEM quality ballasts. They have very fast warm up time, they are even smaller. They have a CANBUS anti flicker inside. And some have the ASIC chip integrated inside.
The Philips Ballasts that I'm selling are Analog AC.
The main difference between digital and analog ballasts is how they work. I am talking about the AC types.
Digital Ballasts runs upon a CPU programmed controller. The main problem with CPU programmed controllers is that they can't monitor the HID bulb power requirements. Day after day, the power requirements of the bulb change as the bulb ages, thus the power input has to vary, but the code is programmed and will push the bulb more to maintain the same output, thus shortening the life of the bulb. As the bulb ages more it gets out of control and then boom, it's burned. This is the scenario with cheap Chinese kits. The good Chinese kits have quality parts inside and the code is a little bit variable, yet it can't monitor the bulb power requirements thoroughly.
Analog Ballasts don't use CPU programmed code. They run upon a non-programmed controller. The Philips ballasts, like Hella and Matsushita, use the German ASIC chip. The chip was very expensive to design and it's the most expensive part of the ballast. The chip can entirely monitor the bulb power requirements in real time, thus giving you the most reliability.
![[Image: HyluxAsic_zps0ac7f8da.jpg]](http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq97/multics_R33/HID%20Retrofit/HyluxAsic_zps0ac7f8da.jpg)
![[Image: adv03_zps20614f8b.jpg]](http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq97/multics_R33/HID%20Retrofit/adv03_zps20614f8b.jpg)
Lexus IS 250 SE-L
For those interested in HID lighting..
I've spend quite some time doing research and learning about HID lighting. I'm into HID retrofits, done it on all my cars plus for some friends over the years.
You've probably noticed the terms Digital and Analog Ballasts, AC and DC Ballasts etc.
There are 2 types of Analog Ballasts, AC and DC, while Digital Ballasts are only AC.
Digital - AC Ballasts are the mostly used now for a good price. Good Warm up time, A bit smaller and no flickering.
Analog - DC Ballasts are the worst. They are no longer made except by Chinese fake ballasts companies. Slow Warm up time, Less durable, Less reliable and may flicker.
Analog - AC are the best and are par with OEM quality ballasts. They have very fast warm up time, they are even smaller. They have a CANBUS anti flicker inside. And some have the ASIC chip integrated inside.
The Philips Ballasts that I'm selling are Analog AC.
The main difference between digital and analog ballasts is how they work. I am talking about the AC types.
Digital Ballasts runs upon a CPU programmed controller. The main problem with CPU programmed controllers is that they can't monitor the HID bulb power requirements. Day after day, the power requirements of the bulb change as the bulb ages, thus the power input has to vary, but the code is programmed and will push the bulb more to maintain the same output, thus shortening the life of the bulb. As the bulb ages more it gets out of control and then boom, it's burned. This is the scenario with cheap Chinese kits. The good Chinese kits have quality parts inside and the code is a little bit variable, yet it can't monitor the bulb power requirements thoroughly.
Analog Ballasts don't use CPU programmed code. They run upon a non-programmed controller. The Philips ballasts, like Hella and Matsushita, use the German ASIC chip. The chip was very expensive to design and it's the most expensive part of the ballast. The chip can entirely monitor the bulb power requirements in real time, thus giving you the most reliability.
Lexus IS 250 SE-L
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