Timing belt help please!
Timing belt help please!
I know that there are a few guides available on the tinterweb.
Just got a couple of questions.
How difficult is it to get the crank pulley off?
How do I secure it when I am un-doing the bolt?
Does this need re-tightening up with a torque wrench?
How important is it to swap the water pump over? Are they prone to failing?
Has any body swapped the crank oil seal? Is it difficult to do?
Are there any special tools I need? I have a big 1/2 drive breaker bar. And I think it's 22mm socket for the crank bolt. Anything else?
Put it in gear to undo the bolt, should work but some can be terrible to get off,
Your best changing the pump as you've got everything off anyway.
The seal isn't easy but can be done, need something like a dentist uses to hook it out.
I just did mine a week or so ago, James, only my crank bolt was really really bad i had a mechanic mate of mine take it to his workshop and use a 1/2 inch impact gun to loosen it, but once loosened it was reletively straight forward, as for other tools you will need a number of sockets and spanners i think its mostluy 14mm and one or 2 10mm and a 13mm or 2 as well these you will need to loosen the aircon compressor and the alternator to get the accessories belts these require the 14mm items the plastic timing belt covers require the 10mm items to get off then there is the belt tensioner which is situated below the alternator i think this requires the 13 mm to loosen you will also need a #8 or #10 alan key to release the main tensioner next to the aircon compressor, left of the Block (it may be the powersteering pump if not the aircon compressor) any way once the 2 tensioners are loose/off its no issue pulling the belt off and replacing it, you may need a tiny flat screwdriver just to aid in clearing the edge of the cam sprocket but once its cleared sliding the belt on is relatively easy, as for the water pump, i didn't feel the need to replace it as mine looked fairly new and was working perfectly and i couldn't justify the €200 odd pricetag for a new item, but if yours looks like it could benefit from a new one, do it cos it most likely needs to be changed.
putting everything back there are 2 things i must stress...:
1)Make sure not to forget the washer type doo-hicky that fits against the timing belt sprocket situated directly behind the crank pully it supposed to stop the belt coming off the sprocket, i mentioned this because we actually did forget it and had to pull everything off again to fit it
2) The crank bolt should be torqued when tightening it to 220nm if memory serves...
One good thing about these cars is that the timing belt only needs to be changed (according to manufacturers specifications) every 100000miles, so you prolly wont need to do it again for as long as you own the car.
If there are any other questions just let me know i'll try answer them as best as i can
It will turn, but the point is to crack the bolt before it unwinds...ie:
There are 2 ways to do it...
1) put the car in gear and get some one to stand on the brake while you try crack the bolt with a extension bar in this way you dont turn the car over, putting the car in gear is meant to "lock the crank" sometimes the bolt is too tight so you end up moving the whole car this is wher the brake comes in, if someone stands on the brakes it should help the car from moving.
2) take the car out of gear, position the extended bar in such a way that the socket is fitted to the bolt and the bar end is resting on the ground to the right side when facing the crank pully (passanger side) then use the starter motors torque to crack the bolt by turning the motor over without actually starting the engine
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Rests against the floor.