which way to go
which way to go
1.r32 is the model i want
2.which engine to go for rb20 or25 i like the idea of the power of the 2.5 but that comes at a cost , while going for the 2,0gtst i could use the money i save on goddies . or search for a gtr at a lower price but higer mileage . anybody owned both , would like to be in the healthy 400 horses is this to much for gtst, i will use it twice a week for work but most of the time just a weekend toy.
what do you guys think???
ta
weemo1rush
02-10-2016, 01:51 PM #1well not sure on the path to take.
1.r32 is the model i want
2.which engine to go for rb20 or25 i like the idea of the power of the 2.5 but that comes at a cost , while going for the 2,0gtst i could use the money i save on goddies . or search for a gtr at a lower price but higer mileage . anybody owned both , would like to be in the healthy 400 horses is this to much for gtst, i will use it twice a week for work but most of the time just a weekend toy.
what do you guys think???
ta
Borrowed from Andy of the skylineownersclub with respect
Under the hood (stock 130 to 140rwkw)
The Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25T is a great base for tuning. The GTR's little brother is 200kg lighter and is equipped with the awesome RB25DET. The R33 has 187kw at the flywheel and most manuals see 130-140 rear wheel KW on a dyno. The 2.5 liter six is impressive featuring a twin cam 24 valve head with Variable valve timing on the intake side only. Induction is via a Single ball bearing turbo charger which comes onto boost fast with its ceramic exhaust wheel. To keep inlet temperatures down the car is equipped with a small side mounted intercooler.
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Exhaust (around 160rwkw)
The RB25DET is a sweet sounding engine but very quiet in standard form and as with most factory turbo cars the exhaust causes a huge restriction. A good free flowing exhaust will have the RB sounding great, turbo lag will be reduced, and power gained throughout the rev range. The new exhaust should start from the turbo with a dump pipe either a 3" open bell mouth or better still a split dump to separate the gases from the turbine and wastegate. From here a high quality 3" high flow cat should be used, then 3" all the way to the back of the car with high flow mufflers.
Intake (160 to 170rwkw)
Now we have the exhaust side of the engine breathing the next step is to get more air into the engine. Either use a high performance air filter, or replace the air box with a POD style air filter. If you choose to go the POD filter route I recommend you fabricate some type of shield to keep hot air from the engine bay away from your intake. A cold air intake to the filter from the front of your Skyline will also give you a performance advantage. 5-10 rwkw is achievable with this mod.
Intercooler Upgrade (165 to 180rwkw)
The standard R33 intercooler is tiny and before a boost increase I recommend installing a better cooler if you don’t you risk detonation on warm days. The R34 GTT intercooler is a good cheap upgrade for the R33 and bolts onto the same position as the stock item with minimal modification. The GTT intercooler is rated up to about 200rwkw if you plan on going further than this power figure a GTR or aftermarket front mount will be required. Be aware that with these systems new pipe work will be required and you may notice a small decrease in throttle response. You may notice a small increase in power with this mod without increasing boost as airflow will increase and the air will be denser. But it’s the ability to run more boost that makes this mod a good one. If you don’t plan on increasing your power level to over 200rwkw I recommend the GTT intercooler as its cheep and you will notice no difference in throttle response.
Boost increase (175 to 185rwkw)
In standard form the R33 runs a two stage boost control system 5psi to 4500 rpm then 7psi to red line 7000 rpm. As mentioned before the turbo’s exhaust wheel is ceramic and they tend to fail if to much heat is generated. The amount of boost you can run with the stock turbo is debatable but I don’t recommend running more than 10 psi. You have a few options when choosing to increase the boost either a manual boost controller, electronic boost controller, or a new wastegate actuator.
A manual controller is very basic in its operation it bleeds off air causing the wastegate actuator to open later. The amount of boost run depends on the amount of air bled form the system. It is critical to install an after market boost gauge before carrying out this modification as the stock gauge is not accurate enough and is measured in mmg not psi or bar. Manual boost controllers are cheep and easy to install but they do have there disadvantages some can cause boost spikes and boost creep I have also found boost tends to tail off high in the rev range.
Electronic boost controllers on the other hand use stepper motors and monitor boost about every 10th of a second because of this boost spikes and boost creep are kept to a minimum, and the desired boost level is held to redline. Electronic boost controllers are expensive and for this level of modification a manual controller will probably be good enough.
A 3rd option is to install a different wastgate actuator and the good news is the R32 GTST item is exactly the same as the R33 except the spring inside is set for 10psi. R32 actuators can be hard to find but I think it’s the best option for this level of modification as boost spikes and boost creep are eliminated.
No mater which system you choose the 2 stage boost control system should be disconnected. After this mod is carried out many people notice flat spots throughout the rev range this is due to the ECU seeing an increase in airflow and as a safety precaution it richens the air fuel mixtures. Many people find re-gaping the spark plugs from 1.1mm to 0.8mm fixes this problem but if it does not you need to consider the next upgrade.
ECU (185 to 200+rwkw)
As mentioned before many people have problems with flat spots and rich air fuel ratios. Even if you don’t have these dreaded flat spots an aftermarket ECU will give good power gains and improve drivability. One popular option is the Apexi SAFC (Super air flow computer). The SAFC is a piggy back to the ECU and works by tricking the ECU into thinking your engine is getting more or less air than your engine actually is. Tuning should be done be a professional on a dyno this modification should fix those dreaded flat spots by leaning you airfuel ratio's at different RPM points.
A better but more expensive option is the Apexi Power FC which replaces the standard ECU. Many people choose the Power FC as its less expensive than other aftermarket ECU's, and it plugs straight into you old loom so there is no need to cut any wires. All parameters of your car can be tuned with a Power FC but once again it should be dyno tuned by a professional. Please note the power FC cannot be used an automatic transmission.
Clutch and Fuel Pump
At this level of modification it’s likely that your clutch and or fuel pump will need upgrading to handing the extra power.
Conclusion
This completes stage 1 engine tuning for the Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25T. Basically at this stage we are at the limits of the standard turbo and fuel systems but in terms of car modification this level of tuning is offers great value for money. Many people with these modifications with and a well sorted suspension and tyre packages have 12 run second quarter mile passes.
Lexus IS200 Sport Navigator (Now being stripped again) :blink:
Now Don't Forget The REP!!!
Bit of info for you mate for the R33GTS-T RB25 Engine,
Borrowed from Andy of the skylineownersclub with respect
Under the hood (stock 130 to 140rwkw)
The Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25T is a great base for tuning. The GTR's little brother is 200kg lighter and is equipped with the awesome RB25DET. The R33 has 187kw at the flywheel and most manuals see 130-140 rear wheel KW on a dyno. The 2.5 liter six is impressive featuring a twin cam 24 valve head with Variable valve timing on the intake side only. Induction is via a Single ball bearing turbo charger which comes onto boost fast with its ceramic exhaust wheel. To keep inlet temperatures down the car is equipped with a small side mounted intercooler.
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Exhaust (around 160rwkw)
The RB25DET is a sweet sounding engine but very quiet in standard form and as with most factory turbo cars the exhaust causes a huge restriction. A good free flowing exhaust will have the RB sounding great, turbo lag will be reduced, and power gained throughout the rev range. The new exhaust should start from the turbo with a dump pipe either a 3" open bell mouth or better still a split dump to separate the gases from the turbine and wastegate. From here a high quality 3" high flow cat should be used, then 3" all the way to the back of the car with high flow mufflers.
Intake (160 to 170rwkw)
Now we have the exhaust side of the engine breathing the next step is to get more air into the engine. Either use a high performance air filter, or replace the air box with a POD style air filter. If you choose to go the POD filter route I recommend you fabricate some type of shield to keep hot air from the engine bay away from your intake. A cold air intake to the filter from the front of your Skyline will also give you a performance advantage. 5-10 rwkw is achievable with this mod.
Intercooler Upgrade (165 to 180rwkw)
The standard R33 intercooler is tiny and before a boost increase I recommend installing a better cooler if you don’t you risk detonation on warm days. The R34 GTT intercooler is a good cheap upgrade for the R33 and bolts onto the same position as the stock item with minimal modification. The GTT intercooler is rated up to about 200rwkw if you plan on going further than this power figure a GTR or aftermarket front mount will be required. Be aware that with these systems new pipe work will be required and you may notice a small decrease in throttle response. You may notice a small increase in power with this mod without increasing boost as airflow will increase and the air will be denser. But it’s the ability to run more boost that makes this mod a good one. If you don’t plan on increasing your power level to over 200rwkw I recommend the GTT intercooler as its cheep and you will notice no difference in throttle response.
Boost increase (175 to 185rwkw)
In standard form the R33 runs a two stage boost control system 5psi to 4500 rpm then 7psi to red line 7000 rpm. As mentioned before the turbo’s exhaust wheel is ceramic and they tend to fail if to much heat is generated. The amount of boost you can run with the stock turbo is debatable but I don’t recommend running more than 10 psi. You have a few options when choosing to increase the boost either a manual boost controller, electronic boost controller, or a new wastegate actuator.
A manual controller is very basic in its operation it bleeds off air causing the wastegate actuator to open later. The amount of boost run depends on the amount of air bled form the system. It is critical to install an after market boost gauge before carrying out this modification as the stock gauge is not accurate enough and is measured in mmg not psi or bar. Manual boost controllers are cheep and easy to install but they do have there disadvantages some can cause boost spikes and boost creep I have also found boost tends to tail off high in the rev range.
Electronic boost controllers on the other hand use stepper motors and monitor boost about every 10th of a second because of this boost spikes and boost creep are kept to a minimum, and the desired boost level is held to redline. Electronic boost controllers are expensive and for this level of modification a manual controller will probably be good enough.
A 3rd option is to install a different wastgate actuator and the good news is the R32 GTST item is exactly the same as the R33 except the spring inside is set for 10psi. R32 actuators can be hard to find but I think it’s the best option for this level of modification as boost spikes and boost creep are eliminated.
No mater which system you choose the 2 stage boost control system should be disconnected. After this mod is carried out many people notice flat spots throughout the rev range this is due to the ECU seeing an increase in airflow and as a safety precaution it richens the air fuel mixtures. Many people find re-gaping the spark plugs from 1.1mm to 0.8mm fixes this problem but if it does not you need to consider the next upgrade.
ECU (185 to 200+rwkw)
As mentioned before many people have problems with flat spots and rich air fuel ratios. Even if you don’t have these dreaded flat spots an aftermarket ECU will give good power gains and improve drivability. One popular option is the Apexi SAFC (Super air flow computer). The SAFC is a piggy back to the ECU and works by tricking the ECU into thinking your engine is getting more or less air than your engine actually is. Tuning should be done be a professional on a dyno this modification should fix those dreaded flat spots by leaning you airfuel ratio's at different RPM points.
A better but more expensive option is the Apexi Power FC which replaces the standard ECU. Many people choose the Power FC as its less expensive than other aftermarket ECU's, and it plugs straight into you old loom so there is no need to cut any wires. All parameters of your car can be tuned with a Power FC but once again it should be dyno tuned by a professional. Please note the power FC cannot be used an automatic transmission.
Clutch and Fuel Pump
At this level of modification it’s likely that your clutch and or fuel pump will need upgrading to handing the extra power.
Conclusion
This completes stage 1 engine tuning for the Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25T. Basically at this stage we are at the limits of the standard turbo and fuel systems but in terms of car modification this level of tuning is offers great value for money. Many people with these modifications with and a well sorted suspension and tyre packages have 12 run second quarter mile passes.
Lexus IS200 Sport Navigator (Now being stripped again) :blink:
Now Don't Forget The REP!!!
Stage 2 of tuning is where things start to get expensive as we need to upgrade many of the standard systems. Nissan Skyline RB engines are known for the strength the RB25 is no exception with regular maintenance and a safe tune 270rwkw is easily possible. Some people push the limits with 300rwkw+ but if you want an engine that will last 270rwkw is a safer limit.
Turbo Selection
There are many good turbo options available but I recommend a turbo that will bolt onto standard manifold this will save time and money in the long run. Many people in Australia have had there standard Nissan Skyline turbo high-flowed by GCG turbo’s these turbos are popular because they use a ball bearing cartridge, and everything bolts back into place. Turbo response is said to be similar to stock and power figures average around 230rwkw or up to 250rwkw with cams. Some people have used larger exhaust housings from the R34 GTT or the old single turbo 300zx and have achieved 270rwkw+.
HKS in Japan have a range of turbo's for the R33 that come with all the parts needed to bolt on. Suitable Nissan Skyline kits available from HKS at the moment include the HKS GT-RS known to make 280rwkw and the HKS PRO-S known to make around 300rwkw the GTRS is cheaper and a little more responsive than the PRO-S. Another popular choice since superseded by newer models was the 2535 which is similar to the GT-RS.
Fuel system
If you haven’t done so already the fuel pump will need to be upgraded. Second hand GTR pumps are a popular option as are new pumps from bosch, walbro, and tomei. The GTR and Tomei pumps are a direct fit. You may also install a fuel pressure regulator to increase fuel pressure.
Standard injectors will also need to be upgraded at this stage. You can either have your standard injectors high-flowed, or buy after market ones from Nismo or Performance company's. I recommend you use injectors that are a direct replacement and don’t require any modifications s to fit. The JDM spec S15 Silvia injectors are also a popular choice as they flow more and fit without modification.
Airflow meter
To improve the tunability of the engine its a good idea to upgrade your airflow meter this allows for finer tuning which will result in smoother power delivery and make it easier for the tuner to produce a higher peak power output . Popular upgrade choices include the Z32 and the Q45. The Z32 is cheaper of the 2 but the Q45 will allow more airflow. click for more information
ECU
If you have not done so already the ECU will need to be upgraded even with a SAFC or similar the stock ECU will not do the job. As stated before the Power FC is a popular option due to its price, ease of installation, and use. There are plenty of other options that are superior to the Power FC and allow many other tuning functions like launch control, and the ability to use a map sensor instead of the airflow meter. But the FC is still a popular and is proven to perform.
Head Gasket
Running boost levels above 1.2 may require a new metal head gasket to lower compression and improve reliability. Opinions differ on this subject so I think its best to ask you tuner.
Clutch and flywheel
The stock clutch will certainly fail quickly at this power level the hardest part is finding a clutch that will handle the power yet not make your car a pig to drive. Exeedy seem to be popular and reliable choice and while you are upgrading your clutch a lightened flywheel is well worth considering. This will help the car rev quicker but the trade off is your car will loose momentum quicker to.
Cams or Cam gears
At this stage the Nissan skyline will benefit from a set new cams, cam gears, or both. The outright power will be increased but the main reason for installing cams is for a fatter torque and power curve. Upgraded cams can help reduce lag, improve mid and top end power. Popular choice is tomei pon cams as they fit without modification and are proven to give good results.
__________________
Should give you an idea whats possible for the RB25 motor?
Lexus IS200 Sport Navigator (Now being stripped again) :blink:
Now Don't Forget The REP!!!
Engine Tuning Stage 2
Stage 2 of tuning is where things start to get expensive as we need to upgrade many of the standard systems. Nissan Skyline RB engines are known for the strength the RB25 is no exception with regular maintenance and a safe tune 270rwkw is easily possible. Some people push the limits with 300rwkw+ but if you want an engine that will last 270rwkw is a safer limit.
Turbo Selection
There are many good turbo options available but I recommend a turbo that will bolt onto standard manifold this will save time and money in the long run. Many people in Australia have had there standard Nissan Skyline turbo high-flowed by GCG turbo’s these turbos are popular because they use a ball bearing cartridge, and everything bolts back into place. Turbo response is said to be similar to stock and power figures average around 230rwkw or up to 250rwkw with cams. Some people have used larger exhaust housings from the R34 GTT or the old single turbo 300zx and have achieved 270rwkw+.
HKS in Japan have a range of turbo's for the R33 that come with all the parts needed to bolt on. Suitable Nissan Skyline kits available from HKS at the moment include the HKS GT-RS known to make 280rwkw and the HKS PRO-S known to make around 300rwkw the GTRS is cheaper and a little more responsive than the PRO-S. Another popular choice since superseded by newer models was the 2535 which is similar to the GT-RS.
Fuel system
If you haven’t done so already the fuel pump will need to be upgraded. Second hand GTR pumps are a popular option as are new pumps from bosch, walbro, and tomei. The GTR and Tomei pumps are a direct fit. You may also install a fuel pressure regulator to increase fuel pressure.
Standard injectors will also need to be upgraded at this stage. You can either have your standard injectors high-flowed, or buy after market ones from Nismo or Performance company's. I recommend you use injectors that are a direct replacement and don’t require any modifications s to fit. The JDM spec S15 Silvia injectors are also a popular choice as they flow more and fit without modification.
Airflow meter
To improve the tunability of the engine its a good idea to upgrade your airflow meter this allows for finer tuning which will result in smoother power delivery and make it easier for the tuner to produce a higher peak power output . Popular upgrade choices include the Z32 and the Q45. The Z32 is cheaper of the 2 but the Q45 will allow more airflow. click for more information
ECU
If you have not done so already the ECU will need to be upgraded even with a SAFC or similar the stock ECU will not do the job. As stated before the Power FC is a popular option due to its price, ease of installation, and use. There are plenty of other options that are superior to the Power FC and allow many other tuning functions like launch control, and the ability to use a map sensor instead of the airflow meter. But the FC is still a popular and is proven to perform.
Head Gasket
Running boost levels above 1.2 may require a new metal head gasket to lower compression and improve reliability. Opinions differ on this subject so I think its best to ask you tuner.
Clutch and flywheel
The stock clutch will certainly fail quickly at this power level the hardest part is finding a clutch that will handle the power yet not make your car a pig to drive. Exeedy seem to be popular and reliable choice and while you are upgrading your clutch a lightened flywheel is well worth considering. This will help the car rev quicker but the trade off is your car will loose momentum quicker to.
Cams or Cam gears
At this stage the Nissan skyline will benefit from a set new cams, cam gears, or both. The outright power will be increased but the main reason for installing cams is for a fatter torque and power curve. Upgraded cams can help reduce lag, improve mid and top end power. Popular choice is tomei pon cams as they fit without modification and are proven to give good results.
__________________
Should give you an idea whats possible for the RB25 motor?
Lexus IS200 Sport Navigator (Now being stripped again) :blink:
Now Don't Forget The REP!!!
Nissan Skyline R32 GTST RB20DET Engine
Under the hood (stock 115 to 125rwkw)
The R32 Nissan Skyline is equipted with the the Rev happy 157kw RB20DET engine featuring a twin cam 24 valve head, and a intercoolered turbo charger. The Turbo is a ball bearing item with a ceramic turbine wheel to aid responce. The RB20 lacks low end tourque compared the RB25 but acceleration in similar to newer skyline models as the car only weighs 1245kg.
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Exhaust (around 140rwkw)
The RB20DET is a sweet sounding engine but very quiet in standard form and as with most factory turbo cars the exhaust causes a huge restriction. A good free flowing exhaust will have the RB sounding great, turbo lag will be reduced, and power gained throughout the rev range. The new exhaust should start from the turbo with a dump pipe either a 3" open bell mouth or better still a split dump to separate the gases from the turbine and waste-gate. From here a high quality 3" high flow cat should be used, then 3" all the way to the back of the car with high flow mufflers.
Intake (140 to 150rwkw)
Now we have the exhaust side of the engine breathing the next step is to get more air into the engine. Either use a high performance air filter, or replace the air box with a POD style air filter. If you choose to go the POD filter route I recommend you fabricate some type of shield to keep hot air from the engine bay away from your intake. A cold air intake to the filter from the front of your Skyline will also give you a performance advantage. 5-10 rwkw is achievable with this mod.
Intercooler Upgrade (150 to 160rwkw)
The standard R32 intercooler is tiny and before a boost increase I recommend installing a better cooler if you don’t you risk detonation on warm days. The R34 GTT intercooler is a good cheap upgrade for the R32 and bolts onto the same position as the stock item but some modification is required but its an easy job for a aluminum welder. The GTT intercooler is rated up to about 200rwkw if you plan on going further than this power figure a GTR or aftermarket front mount will be required. Be aware that with these systems new pipe work will be required and you may notice a small decrease in throttle response. You may notice a small increase in power with this mod without increasing boost as airflow will increase and the air will be denser. But it’s the ability to run more boost that makes this mod a good one. If you don’t plan on increasing your power level to over 200rwkw I recommend the GTT intercooler as its cheep and you will notice no difference in throttle response.
Boost increase (160 to 170rwkw)
As mentioned before the turbo’s exhaust wheel is ceramic and they tend to fail if to much heat is generated. The amount of boost you can run with the stock turbo is debatable but I don’t recommend running more than 12psi. You have a few options when choosing to increase the boost either a manual boost controller, electronic boost controller, or a new waste-gate actuator.
A manual controller is very basic in its operation it bleeds off air causing the waste-gate actuator to open later. The amount of boost run depends on the amount of air bled form the system. It is critical to install an after market boost gauge before carrying out this modification as the stock gauge is not accurate enough and is measured in mmg not psi or bar. Manual boost controllers are cheep and easy to install but they do have there disadvantages some can cause boost spikes and boost creep I have also found boost tends to tail off high in the rev range.
Electronic boost controllers on the other hand use stepper motors and monitor boost about every 10th of a second because of this boost spikes and boost creep are kept to a minimum, and the desired boost level is held to redline. Electronic boost controllers are expensive and for this level of modification a manual controller will probably be good enough.
A 3rd option is to install a different waste-gate actuator HKS have a actuator with an adjustable arm to help set your desired boost level. I think this is a good option for this level of modification as boost spikes and boost creep are eliminated.
After this modification many people have problems with flat spots throughout the rev range this is due to the ECU seeing an increase in airflow and as a safety precaution it richens the air fuel mixtures. Many people find re-gaping the spark plugs from 1.1mm to 0.8mm fixes this problem but if it does not you need to consider the next upgrade.
ECU Edit (170 to 180+rwkw)
Many Performance shops are able to edit the standard ECU's settings this is good news If you are a R32 owner as you don’t have to be a new one. Timing, air fuel ratios and all other aspects of your stock ECU can be edited. In my opinion this is the best most cost effective option.
As mentioned before many people have problems with flat spots and rich air fuel ratios. Even if you don’t have these dreaded flat spots an aftermarket ECU will give good power gains and improve drivability. One popular option is the Apexi SAFC (Super air flow computer). The SAFC is a piggy back to the ECU and works by tricking the ECU into thinking your engine is getting more or less air than your engine actually is. Tuning should be done be a professional on a dyno this modification should fix those dreaded flat spots by leaning you air/fuel ratio's at different RPM points.
A better but more expensive option is the Apexi Power FC which replaces the standard ECU. Many people choose the Power FC as its less expensive than other aftermarket ECU's, and it plugs straight into you old loom so there is no need to cut any wires. All parameters of your car can be tuned with a Power FC but once again it should be dyno tuned by a professional. Please note the power FC cannot be used an automatic transmission.
Clutch, Flywheel and Fuel Pump
At this level of modification the clutch may start to slip due to the extra power so it will need to be replaced with a heavy duty item. Many people choose to upgrade the flywheel at the same time this increases acceleration but you may loose a little torque.
The GTS-T is starting to age and the stock fuel pump may not even flow enough for standard power let alone your modified engine. I recommend that you upgrade it. Popular choices include the boche 040, or 044 these are probably your cheapest option, Nismo, Tomei and HKS also make aftermarket direct fit pumps.
Conclusion
This completes stage 1 engine tuning for the Nissan Skyline R32 GTST. Basically at this stage we are at the limits of the standard turbo and fuel systems but in terms of car modification this level of tuning is offers great value for money. Many people with these modifications with and a well sorted suspension and tyre packages have ran low 13 second quarter mile passes.
__________________
Lexus IS200 Sport Navigator (Now being stripped again) :blink:
Now Don't Forget The REP!!!
And the R32 GTS-T
Nissan Skyline R32 GTST RB20DET Engine
Under the hood (stock 115 to 125rwkw)
The R32 Nissan Skyline is equipted with the the Rev happy 157kw RB20DET engine featuring a twin cam 24 valve head, and a intercoolered turbo charger. The Turbo is a ball bearing item with a ceramic turbine wheel to aid responce. The RB20 lacks low end tourque compared the RB25 but acceleration in similar to newer skyline models as the car only weighs 1245kg.
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Exhaust (around 140rwkw)
The RB20DET is a sweet sounding engine but very quiet in standard form and as with most factory turbo cars the exhaust causes a huge restriction. A good free flowing exhaust will have the RB sounding great, turbo lag will be reduced, and power gained throughout the rev range. The new exhaust should start from the turbo with a dump pipe either a 3" open bell mouth or better still a split dump to separate the gases from the turbine and waste-gate. From here a high quality 3" high flow cat should be used, then 3" all the way to the back of the car with high flow mufflers.
Intake (140 to 150rwkw)
Now we have the exhaust side of the engine breathing the next step is to get more air into the engine. Either use a high performance air filter, or replace the air box with a POD style air filter. If you choose to go the POD filter route I recommend you fabricate some type of shield to keep hot air from the engine bay away from your intake. A cold air intake to the filter from the front of your Skyline will also give you a performance advantage. 5-10 rwkw is achievable with this mod.
Intercooler Upgrade (150 to 160rwkw)
The standard R32 intercooler is tiny and before a boost increase I recommend installing a better cooler if you don’t you risk detonation on warm days. The R34 GTT intercooler is a good cheap upgrade for the R32 and bolts onto the same position as the stock item but some modification is required but its an easy job for a aluminum welder. The GTT intercooler is rated up to about 200rwkw if you plan on going further than this power figure a GTR or aftermarket front mount will be required. Be aware that with these systems new pipe work will be required and you may notice a small decrease in throttle response. You may notice a small increase in power with this mod without increasing boost as airflow will increase and the air will be denser. But it’s the ability to run more boost that makes this mod a good one. If you don’t plan on increasing your power level to over 200rwkw I recommend the GTT intercooler as its cheep and you will notice no difference in throttle response.
Boost increase (160 to 170rwkw)
As mentioned before the turbo’s exhaust wheel is ceramic and they tend to fail if to much heat is generated. The amount of boost you can run with the stock turbo is debatable but I don’t recommend running more than 12psi. You have a few options when choosing to increase the boost either a manual boost controller, electronic boost controller, or a new waste-gate actuator.
A manual controller is very basic in its operation it bleeds off air causing the waste-gate actuator to open later. The amount of boost run depends on the amount of air bled form the system. It is critical to install an after market boost gauge before carrying out this modification as the stock gauge is not accurate enough and is measured in mmg not psi or bar. Manual boost controllers are cheep and easy to install but they do have there disadvantages some can cause boost spikes and boost creep I have also found boost tends to tail off high in the rev range.
Electronic boost controllers on the other hand use stepper motors and monitor boost about every 10th of a second because of this boost spikes and boost creep are kept to a minimum, and the desired boost level is held to redline. Electronic boost controllers are expensive and for this level of modification a manual controller will probably be good enough.
A 3rd option is to install a different waste-gate actuator HKS have a actuator with an adjustable arm to help set your desired boost level. I think this is a good option for this level of modification as boost spikes and boost creep are eliminated.
After this modification many people have problems with flat spots throughout the rev range this is due to the ECU seeing an increase in airflow and as a safety precaution it richens the air fuel mixtures. Many people find re-gaping the spark plugs from 1.1mm to 0.8mm fixes this problem but if it does not you need to consider the next upgrade.
ECU Edit (170 to 180+rwkw)
Many Performance shops are able to edit the standard ECU's settings this is good news If you are a R32 owner as you don’t have to be a new one. Timing, air fuel ratios and all other aspects of your stock ECU can be edited. In my opinion this is the best most cost effective option.
As mentioned before many people have problems with flat spots and rich air fuel ratios. Even if you don’t have these dreaded flat spots an aftermarket ECU will give good power gains and improve drivability. One popular option is the Apexi SAFC (Super air flow computer). The SAFC is a piggy back to the ECU and works by tricking the ECU into thinking your engine is getting more or less air than your engine actually is. Tuning should be done be a professional on a dyno this modification should fix those dreaded flat spots by leaning you air/fuel ratio's at different RPM points.
A better but more expensive option is the Apexi Power FC which replaces the standard ECU. Many people choose the Power FC as its less expensive than other aftermarket ECU's, and it plugs straight into you old loom so there is no need to cut any wires. All parameters of your car can be tuned with a Power FC but once again it should be dyno tuned by a professional. Please note the power FC cannot be used an automatic transmission.
Clutch, Flywheel and Fuel Pump
At this level of modification the clutch may start to slip due to the extra power so it will need to be replaced with a heavy duty item. Many people choose to upgrade the flywheel at the same time this increases acceleration but you may loose a little torque.
The GTS-T is starting to age and the stock fuel pump may not even flow enough for standard power let alone your modified engine. I recommend that you upgrade it. Popular choices include the boche 040, or 044 these are probably your cheapest option, Nismo, Tomei and HKS also make aftermarket direct fit pumps.
Conclusion
This completes stage 1 engine tuning for the Nissan Skyline R32 GTST. Basically at this stage we are at the limits of the standard turbo and fuel systems but in terms of car modification this level of tuning is offers great value for money. Many people with these modifications with and a well sorted suspension and tyre packages have ran low 13 second quarter mile passes.
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Lexus IS200 Sport Navigator (Now being stripped again) :blink:
Now Don't Forget The REP!!!
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
03-10-2016, 01:27 AM #6and is scary quick especially when cornering:thumbup:.
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
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