CO-emissions test failed
CO-emissions test failed
Today, I went to the "technical control" (equivalent to your MOT) and failed the CO-emissions test. The values registered were around 0.570 to 0.600, where only 0.300 is allowed to pass the test.
Recently I had the precats removed because they were falling apart. The exhaust manifold has been fitted with a straight steel tube instead of the two precats. The sensors are connected again. Anyone have a clue how to tackle this problem?
Is my original main cat dying from the ceramic particles that were blown in it?
Could it be due to the cutting away of the precats?
Is it a broken sensor? Should I modify the sensors?
Note that I had an error code P0420 (emission sensor error bank 1) before and after removing the precats.
How can I influence the CO to make it fit in the values?
Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
Did you mean P0420 ? It could be a problem with the cat, but is more likely one of the sensors (including the one after the cat) could be failing, as Gord suggests.
This is what I did ......
I bought a bottle of Redx injector cleaner, put in some esso premium fuel and gave the car a good thrash for about 40mins before I put it back into get the MOT again .Hope this helps for people in the future.
I got mine down from 0.664 to 0.002
Even my mechanic mate could not believe it :thumbup:
I went to the garage on Tuesday and there was.... NOTHING wrong with my car. They took the emissions test and it passed it flawlessly. They nor I understood why it had failed the official test. So they took the emissions test again after the engine cooled down half a day and it passed it again!? :blink:
CO = 0,0001 (is that possible?), lambda = 1:14,67
These values are pretty much the best you can wish when testing emissions. So why did it fail then? The dealer thought it must have been due to circumstantial conditions: it was very cold, roads barely open due to snow and a wait time with running engine of about 25'.
So, I guess back to the technical control (our MOT) and fingers crossed.... :glare:
How confusing. Hope the technical control pass it now.
Passed technical control this morning without a problem. Their values confirmed those of my garage: AFR and CO were as good as optimal.
The only differences with the previous test was that they used another machine, I didn't keep the engine running during waiting (I waited 10' instead of 25' last time) of the same type, and it didn't snow. That last bit was important because I realised that it also means I didn't use the "SNOW" button. Could that have caused me to fail the exhaust emissions test?
DJ Wozza I thought the snow button only changes throttle response, but maybe it alters the ignition timing a tad (only a guess) as my S/C won't
go to full boost when the Snow button is on ?
DJ Wozza I thought the snow button only changes throttle response, but maybe it alters the ignition timing a tad (only a guess) as my S/C won't
go to full boost when the Snow button is on ?
Marsdendean For me it makes the auto easier to drive. If you push the pedal a little bit on mine, it throws everyone back,
Marsdendean For me it makes the auto easier to drive. If you push the pedal a little bit on mine, it throws everyone back,
Hehe, excuses: -12°C, snow turning into ice, salt shortage, no-grip 18" Pirelli PZero Rosso and Michelin PS2 instead of proper winter tyres. :laugh:
Never really felt the need to push that button until recently. In the past 2,5 months, it became a basic need. No way you can accelerate away even in the gentlest way in my street without that snow thing on. :Sulk:
PS: it actually also helps to control your throttle better when drifting around that big snowy/icy roundabout in my backyard... :thumbup: