MR2 GTi-16
MR2 GTi-16
However you'd never have this system in a UK car...
I notice it's got a ground filter in there as well! This guy must've had serious noise problems...
That mess you've found is what happend if you had the active stereo system a few years ago, before Autoleads made an adaptor cable for it. The standard ground in the head unit loom is shocking, so having the extra ground isn't surprising.
However you'd never have this system in a UK car...
I notice it's got a ground filter in there as well! This guy must've had serious noise problems...
The ground filter was part if the wiring for that headunit, not something that has been added.
I think i need to go in the boxes behind the seats and make sure there are no amps fitted
but if he says they were working, if there wasnt an amp fitted then the speakers woul dhave been really quiet wouldnt they?
The ground filter was part if the wiring for that headunit, not something that has been added.
I think i need to go in the boxes behind the seats and make sure there are no amps fitted
Basically the way those 'active' stereos work is that there is a 14 or 15 pin connector on the head unit, that then connects directly, pin for pin, to the 14 or 15 pin connector on the amp in the rear 1/4. The amp then has the power aerial, ignition and constant +ve, -ve and all speaker connections connected to it.
The amps are in the rear 1/4 panels, it's only the subs that would be in the boxes behind the seats.
But this is a UK car, right?!
If there was no amp fitted they wouldn't work at all. The wiring just doesn't add up.
Basically the way those 'active' stereos work is that there is a 14 or 15 pin connector on the head unit, that then connects directly, pin for pin, to the 14 or 15 pin connector on the amp in the rear 1/4. The amp then has the power aerial, ignition and constant +ve, -ve and all speaker connections connected to it.
The amps are in the rear 1/4 panels, it's only the subs that would be in the boxes behind the seats.
But this is a UK car, right?!
Ill have to do a bit more investigation on saturday then and see what i can find.
I also took this vid of the short shift earlier. Im pretty sure its a nasty ebay one
![[Image: th_MOV00511.jpg]](http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh106/Big_Pete1985/MR2%20and%20Outlaw/th_MOV00511.jpg)
Right thats simple then, also its got no aircon.
Ill have to do a bit more investigation on saturday then and see what i can find.
I also took this vid of the short shift earlier. Im pretty sure its a nasty ebay one
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
25-02-2017, 09:57 PM #37Our MR2 GTS had the active sound system, the previous owner thank god had the wireing done properly, and it all plugs into a standars ISO socket, but there is a lot os waste wire behind the dash.
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
Luckily my other headunit has 3 pre-outs, i almost bought the unit with only one preout, so at least i can retain the front/rear split
Right ive been having a look about over on imoc. So my car seems to be fitted with the 15 pin connector. this is definately original and has not been joined anywhere in the dash area. This suggests that along with the dodgy adaptor, that my car is an externally amplifed version. I guess for now i will go with the factory amps, but im sure this will be upgraded at a later date to run aftermarket amps and subs. I will work that out at a later date.
Luckily my other headunit has 3 pre-outs, i almost bought the unit with only one preout, so at least i can retain the front/rear split
I take it you found Ishii's thread on IMOC, if not here's the link: http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=87587
What I would do is put it all back to standard and use the correct autoleads adaptor which is PC9-411. That has RCA plugs on it that will go straight into the preouts on your new HU and you can ditch all the comedy wiring.
Modify the autoleads adaptor to use the better ground wire you have there, job done.
When you eventually come to run standalone amps I would start from scratch and do your own ISO wiring and leave the Toyota plug well alone. You can even pull the amp and flog it on evilBay if you so wish!
Hm I have seen this once before on a UK car but it's rare as f'k because it was a hideously expensive option.
I take it you found Ishii's thread on IMOC, if not here's the link: http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=87587
What I would do is put it all back to standard and use the correct autoleads adaptor which is PC9-411. That has RCA plugs on it that will go straight into the preouts on your new HU and you can ditch all the comedy wiring.
Modify the autoleads adaptor to use the better ground wire you have there, job done.
When you eventually come to run standalone amps I would start from scratch and do your own ISO wiring and leave the Toyota plug well alone. You can even pull the amp and flog it on evilBay if you so wish!
toxo Modify the autoleads adaptor to use the better ground wire you have there, job done.
I assume this is what mine has had done to it.
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
26-02-2017, 02:09 AM #40toxo Modify the autoleads adaptor to use the better ground wire you have there, job done.
I assume this is what mine has had done to it.
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
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