Nissan 350z Aux Drive Belt Change
Nissan 350z Aux Drive Belt Change
Aux drive belt change on the Z - in pictures
![[Image: tn_DSCF0693.jpg]](http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f245/steve300/tn_DSCF0693.jpg)
View from above – belts as seen looking down from the open bonnet (Left: alternator/water pump/power steering pump belt; Right: A/C belt)
![[Image: tn_DSCF0694.jpg]](http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f245/steve300/tn_DSCF0694.jpg)
View from above - alternator/water pump/power steering pump belt
Procedure to change belts:
1) First check the tension of current belts using ruler and strong thumb pressure. Working from above, line up the ruler at with the belt at the mid point between its two upper pulleys and press firmly. Record the number of mm deflection you achieve for each belt – you will need this later. [Note: Nissan specify 4-6 mm deflection @ 98 N pressure (10 kg) for a worn in alternator belt and 8-10 mm deflection @ 98 N (10 kg) for a worn in a/c belt].
2) Drive car up on ramps (or jack up and use stands)
![[Image: tn_DSCF0695.jpg]](http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f245/steve300/tn_DSCF0695.jpg)
DIY ramps – ideal for lowered cars!
3) Remove undertray – 14 screws (10mm socket) and one clip at centre (prise middle of clip outward to release)
![[Image: tn_DSCF0696.jpg]](http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f245/steve300/tn_DSCF0696.jpg)
Undertray removal (rotate 90)
4) Locate the two idler wheels and spray some WD40 on the central nut of each (red in picture below).
![[Image: tn_DSCF0697b.jpg]](http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f245/steve300/tn_DSCF0697b.jpg)
Idler wheels, viewed from under front of car, looking up. Central (locking) nuts in red, tensioner bolts in green.
5) Have a cup of tea
6) Loosen central nut (14 mm socket) by a couple of turns on both idler wheels – but do not remove completely. This will allow you to adjust the tension using the tensioner bolt (green in above pic), directly below each wheel.
7) Release tension on each idler wheel by undoing the tension bolts a few turns (12 mm socket), until you have enough free play in the belts to remove them.
8) Remove the two belts.
![[Image: tn_DSCF0698.jpg]](http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f245/steve300/tn_DSCF0698.jpg)
Comparing old (front) belts with new (back), check both are correct before fitting(!)
9) Fit new belts (remember to fit a/c belt first) – you may need to slacken off the tensioner bolt for each idler slightly further to get enough clearance to fit the new belts.
![[Image: tn_DSCF0699.jpg]](http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f245/steve300/tn_DSCF0699.jpg)
Routing new alternator belt when fitting
10) With new belts correctly in place, tighten the tensioner bolts for each of the two idler wheels, until you can feel the each belt is no longer loose.
11) Now check tension at centre of each belt (as in step 1). The ideal deflection for the new belts should be slightly less (1-2 mm less) than with the old belts you recorded earlier. [Nissan specify 3.5-4.5 mm deflection @ 98 N pressure (10 kg) for a new alternator belt and 8-9 mm deflection @ 98 N (10 kg) for a new a/c belt].
12) Adjust tensioner bolts accordingly and recheck tension - until correct tension reached. Do not overtighten, as this could lead to excessive wear of the pulleys/belts.
13) Tighten the centre bolts of each idler wheel to 35 Nm.
14) Fire up the engine, and run for 20-30 seconds, then turn off.
15) Recheck tension on each belt – it may have changed slightly, if it is now outside the recommended values, loosen the idler wheel central bolts and go back to step 12.
16) Refit the undertray.
17) Drive car off ramps (or lower form jack/stands).
Job done!
Borrowed from another forum
Aux drive belt change on the Z - in pictures
View from above – belts as seen looking down from the open bonnet (Left: alternator/water pump/power steering pump belt; Right: A/C belt)
View from above - alternator/water pump/power steering pump belt
Procedure to change belts:
1) First check the tension of current belts using ruler and strong thumb pressure. Working from above, line up the ruler at with the belt at the mid point between its two upper pulleys and press firmly. Record the number of mm deflection you achieve for each belt – you will need this later. [Note: Nissan specify 4-6 mm deflection @ 98 N pressure (10 kg) for a worn in alternator belt and 8-10 mm deflection @ 98 N (10 kg) for a worn in a/c belt].
2) Drive car up on ramps (or jack up and use stands)
DIY ramps – ideal for lowered cars!
3) Remove undertray – 14 screws (10mm socket) and one clip at centre (prise middle of clip outward to release)
Undertray removal (rotate 90)
4) Locate the two idler wheels and spray some WD40 on the central nut of each (red in picture below).
Idler wheels, viewed from under front of car, looking up. Central (locking) nuts in red, tensioner bolts in green.
5) Have a cup of tea
6) Loosen central nut (14 mm socket) by a couple of turns on both idler wheels – but do not remove completely. This will allow you to adjust the tension using the tensioner bolt (green in above pic), directly below each wheel.
7) Release tension on each idler wheel by undoing the tension bolts a few turns (12 mm socket), until you have enough free play in the belts to remove them.
8) Remove the two belts.
Comparing old (front) belts with new (back), check both are correct before fitting(!)
9) Fit new belts (remember to fit a/c belt first) – you may need to slacken off the tensioner bolt for each idler slightly further to get enough clearance to fit the new belts.
Routing new alternator belt when fitting
10) With new belts correctly in place, tighten the tensioner bolts for each of the two idler wheels, until you can feel the each belt is no longer loose.
11) Now check tension at centre of each belt (as in step 1). The ideal deflection for the new belts should be slightly less (1-2 mm less) than with the old belts you recorded earlier. [Nissan specify 3.5-4.5 mm deflection @ 98 N pressure (10 kg) for a new alternator belt and 8-9 mm deflection @ 98 N (10 kg) for a new a/c belt].
12) Adjust tensioner bolts accordingly and recheck tension - until correct tension reached. Do not overtighten, as this could lead to excessive wear of the pulleys/belts.
13) Tighten the centre bolts of each idler wheel to 35 Nm.
14) Fire up the engine, and run for 20-30 seconds, then turn off.
15) Recheck tension on each belt – it may have changed slightly, if it is now outside the recommended values, loosen the idler wheel central bolts and go back to step 12.
16) Refit the undertray.
17) Drive car off ramps (or lower form jack/stands).
Job done!
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
[COLOR="Orange"]JAPANESE PERFORMANCE FEATURE SEPT 2011
BEST OVERALL SUPRA WINNER ACE CAFE 23/06/11
2nd BEST IN SHOW (JAE 2011)
3rd BEST MODIFIED (JAE 2011)
[/COLOR]
[COLOR="Orange"]See my build thread here
[/COLOR]
http://www.outlawjapclub.co.uk/forum/sho...php?t=5851
Done Vix belts not that long ago.... A doddle to do, just remember they might need readjusting after a few 100 miles like Vix did
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
[COLOR="Orange"]JAPANESE PERFORMANCE FEATURE SEPT 2011
BEST OVERALL SUPRA WINNER ACE CAFE 23/06/11
2nd BEST IN SHOW (JAE 2011)
3rd BEST MODIFIED (JAE 2011)
[/COLOR]
[COLOR="Orange"]See my build thread here
[/COLOR]
http://www.outlawjapclub.co.uk/forum/sho...php?t=5851
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