Mazda RX8 Engine issue.. any thoughts ?
Mazda RX8 Engine issue.. any thoughts ?
It is early here
leep:
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
08-06-2018, 08:08 AM #11Thanks for the clarification Ian and Chris!!
It is early hereleep:
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
As you see it's not as straight forward as a piston engine
I thought I would share this as I have found this to work 100% of the time first time, every time even on a low compression engine and flooded engine.
You will need:
21 mm deep socket
Socket Extensions
Socket wrench (torque wrench is best)
2 stroke oil
Oil can (for the 2 Stroke oil) one with a bendy nose is best
Jack and axle stands
1. Jack your Rex up and place and axle stand or some blocks under the sills; the blocks will stop you getting killed if the Rex falls off the jack.
2. Remove the passenger wheel.
3. Remove both the leads from the leading (bottom) plugs on both rotors, a firm pull will make them pop off.
4. Remove both the bottom plugs.
5. Remove the fuel pump fuse.
6. Crank engine for 4 seconds, if you have flooded it you will get a strong oil/petrol smell.
7. Take you oil can full of 2 stroke oil and squirt a few ml of oil into each rotor, I do about 5 squirts (about 6ml)
8. Rotate the rotors to the next chamber, the easiest way is to get a 27mm socket and turn the engine over with the alternator nut, you will hear a release of air as the apex seal passes over the open plug hole, then repeat step 7 and this step until you have put a few ml of oil into each of the 3 rotor faces on each rotor.
9. Replace the plugs and tighten to about 15nm. Replace the leads on the top of the plugs, make sure they seat correctly and you get them in the right order.
10. Reinstall the fuel pump fuse.
11. Put wheel back on and lower the car.
12. Depress clutch and turn the car over for upto 10 seconds, it should start first time. You will get huge amounts of smoke out the exhaust if you flooded it, don't worry it’s just the fuel and oil being burnt off. Let the car idle and then take for a drive, it will probably be rough for a few miles.
This method has never failed me and has worked first time, every time. In face I just used it on a flooded rx8 with such low compression it will not start on its own. Although this will result in some oil going through your CAT it is far better than other deflooding methods that can take upto 7+ times to work as each time it fails you are pushing more and more fuel though your CAT.
This method takes about 15-20 mins, some of the others can take over an hour if you are not lucky and have to keep repeating the process.
Why this method is good?
It's easy on your starter motor.
It easier on your engine, when you flood your engine the un-burnt petrol washes the oil away from the seals; this method lubricates the engine with the 2 stroke oil for the start.
It's far easier on the battery, most other methods need a booster pack or another car to provide power because of the heavy use of the starter motor, with this method as long as your battery has a good charge you will not need any external power.
Why it works?
The key to this method is the 2 stroke oil. Why 2 stroke oil and not engine oil you ask, well it's simple, 2 stroke oil burns easily, very easily in fact you can actually get the engine to fire with just the oil ( I did this once when I forgot to reinstall the fuel pump).
The oil does 2 things:
1. It lubricates the engine, the fuel washes away the protective oil, this replaces it.
2. The oil ups the compression within the engine, that's why this method also works with engines with low compression; the oil creates a better seal around the engine seals upping compression.
Together these 2 things mean the engine should start first time.
Just a bit off topic. Here's a bit pinched off rx8 owners regarding flooding and restarting.
As you see it's not as straight forward as a piston engine
I thought I would share this as I have found this to work 100% of the time first time, every time even on a low compression engine and flooded engine.
You will need:
21 mm deep socket
Socket Extensions
Socket wrench (torque wrench is best)
2 stroke oil
Oil can (for the 2 Stroke oil) one with a bendy nose is best
Jack and axle stands
1. Jack your Rex up and place and axle stand or some blocks under the sills; the blocks will stop you getting killed if the Rex falls off the jack.
2. Remove the passenger wheel.
3. Remove both the leads from the leading (bottom) plugs on both rotors, a firm pull will make them pop off.
4. Remove both the bottom plugs.
5. Remove the fuel pump fuse.
6. Crank engine for 4 seconds, if you have flooded it you will get a strong oil/petrol smell.
7. Take you oil can full of 2 stroke oil and squirt a few ml of oil into each rotor, I do about 5 squirts (about 6ml)
8. Rotate the rotors to the next chamber, the easiest way is to get a 27mm socket and turn the engine over with the alternator nut, you will hear a release of air as the apex seal passes over the open plug hole, then repeat step 7 and this step until you have put a few ml of oil into each of the 3 rotor faces on each rotor.
9. Replace the plugs and tighten to about 15nm. Replace the leads on the top of the plugs, make sure they seat correctly and you get them in the right order.
10. Reinstall the fuel pump fuse.
11. Put wheel back on and lower the car.
12. Depress clutch and turn the car over for upto 10 seconds, it should start first time. You will get huge amounts of smoke out the exhaust if you flooded it, don't worry it’s just the fuel and oil being burnt off. Let the car idle and then take for a drive, it will probably be rough for a few miles.
This method has never failed me and has worked first time, every time. In face I just used it on a flooded rx8 with such low compression it will not start on its own. Although this will result in some oil going through your CAT it is far better than other deflooding methods that can take upto 7+ times to work as each time it fails you are pushing more and more fuel though your CAT.
This method takes about 15-20 mins, some of the others can take over an hour if you are not lucky and have to keep repeating the process.
Why this method is good?
It's easy on your starter motor.
It easier on your engine, when you flood your engine the un-burnt petrol washes the oil away from the seals; this method lubricates the engine with the 2 stroke oil for the start.
It's far easier on the battery, most other methods need a booster pack or another car to provide power because of the heavy use of the starter motor, with this method as long as your battery has a good charge you will not need any external power.
Why it works?
The key to this method is the 2 stroke oil. Why 2 stroke oil and not engine oil you ask, well it's simple, 2 stroke oil burns easily, very easily in fact you can actually get the engine to fire with just the oil ( I did this once when I forgot to reinstall the fuel pump).
The oil does 2 things:
1. It lubricates the engine, the fuel washes away the protective oil, this replaces it.
2. The oil ups the compression within the engine, that's why this method also works with engines with low compression; the oil creates a better seal around the engine seals upping compression.
Together these 2 things mean the engine should start first time.
Its when most owners wash the cars and move them once or twice and do not allow them to warm up.
Various PCM updates were carried out altering the fuelling as well as injecting more oil into the chambers to aid an airtight seal
I have done many a flooded rx8 engine whilst I was working in a mazda dealer, such a ****** time consuming job, and the cats are so prone to melt down with all that unburnt fuel sitting in exhaust, have changed a few cats as well, luckily all under warranty as Mazda UK realised this was a massive problem and one that can so easilt happen, especially over the weekend, Why you may ask??
Its when most owners wash the cars and move them once or twice and do not allow them to warm up.
Various PCM updates were carried out altering the fuelling as well as injecting more oil into the chambers to aid an airtight seal
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
08-06-2018, 08:54 AM #14And people wonder why this engine never took off on a road car:lol:
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
I see a decat on it's way to me lol along with catback system
Good to see you posting again Phil
I think my cat is on it's way out. But not sure if it's due to flooding or just the age???
I see a decat on it's way to me lol along with catback system
Good to see you posting again Phil
you got any pix or a link mate???
![[Image: ormiedit1-2.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/ormiedit1-2.jpg)
TTE supercharger,pr0lex manifold,hks fcd,larger intercooler,apexi induction kit,silicone hose kit,IK22's,polished engine parts,TTE front bumper mod'd for intercooler,TRD side skirts,TRD rear lip,JDM headlights and fogs,10k hid headlights 8k full beam,L8XSS p/plate,fog/brake/light conversion,18"fox rs's,lowered 90mm(f)100mm®,moleys under bars,yellow trd anti rollbars,full stainless exhaust,carbon fiber intake plus so much more
the fault could lie in the coils...remove the coils and check to see if theyve discoloured....if they have you need to replace them...its happened to two of my friends loosing power when hot and cutting out when coming to a junction...both 231 models but their is no diff in coils etc between the 191 and 231 its all in the mapping were they get the extra horses from.
TTE supercharger,pr0lex manifold,hks fcd,larger intercooler,apexi induction kit,silicone hose kit,IK22's,polished engine parts,TTE front bumper mod'd for intercooler,TRD side skirts,TRD rear lip,JDM headlights and fogs,10k hid headlights 8k full beam,L8XSS p/plate,fog/brake/light conversion,18"fox rs's,lowered 90mm(f)100mm®,moleys under bars,yellow trd anti rollbars,full stainless exhaust,carbon fiber intake plus so much more
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/a...?logcode=p
Nice clean cheap one if someone wanted to sort out the poor hot start,,
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/a...?logcode=p
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