Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205
Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205
![[Image: ormiedit1-2.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/ormiedit1-2.jpg)
TTE supercharger,pr0lex manifold,hks fcd,larger intercooler,apexi induction kit,silicone hose kit,IK22's,polished engine parts,TTE front bumper mod'd for intercooler,TRD side skirts,TRD rear lip,JDM headlights and fogs,10k hid headlights 8k full beam,L8XSS p/plate,fog/brake/light conversion,18"fox rs's,lowered 90mm(f)100mm®,moleys under bars,yellow trd anti rollbars,full stainless exhaust,carbon fiber intake plus so much more
Up the boost to 1.1 still safe on these engines apexi induction kit, try and find an apexi exhaust,decat you'll be amazed at the diff I was when I fitted my bros, piggy back ecu with all that you'll be near enough on 300bhp..
TTE supercharger,pr0lex manifold,hks fcd,larger intercooler,apexi induction kit,silicone hose kit,IK22's,polished engine parts,TTE front bumper mod'd for intercooler,TRD side skirts,TRD rear lip,JDM headlights and fogs,10k hid headlights 8k full beam,L8XSS p/plate,fog/brake/light conversion,18"fox rs's,lowered 90mm(f)100mm®,moleys under bars,yellow trd anti rollbars,full stainless exhaust,carbon fiber intake plus so much more
dump valve
boost controller
additional cold air pipe
walbro fuel pump
tvsv blocked off
40mm core alluminium radiator
front mount intercooler
3" performance exhaust, could also add 3" down pipe with a street racing cat welded into it
air con removal (saves about 36kg's i hear),
Blocking the tvsv is a good little mod basically in first or second gear you only get 9psi boost, if u block the tvsv you will get full boost in first and second gear.
Engine cover stuck on the under side of the bonnet get rid of that will bring down bay temperatures.
You can up the boost from 0.9bar to 1.1bar but dont go any higher or you will hit fuel cut, you can only go higher once you get a remappable ecu.
You can go the cheap way round and use a manual boost controller just hook up a gauge to get the boost correct. If you hit fuel cut the car will shunt forward and lose power or you can use an electronic boost controller which is more accurate but more expensive, i have a greddy profec specII in my skyline and there great
Getting rid of the cat and getting a de-cat is good idea and saves so much weightt as the standard cat weighs an absolute ton.
you can chop the decat and welded a racing cat in the middle so you dont have to keep taking the de-cat off and putting the cat back on for mot
I think there is a loop hole somewhere on jap imports, up to a certain year engines dont need a full cat emisions test.... something like that but im sure someone else will know a bit more on the issue
Darren
purple samurai
17-07-2018, 03:06 PM #12Straight air intake
dump valve
boost controller
additional cold air pipe
walbro fuel pump
tvsv blocked off
40mm core alluminium radiator
front mount intercooler
3" performance exhaust, could also add 3" down pipe with a street racing cat welded into it
air con removal (saves about 36kg's i hear),
Blocking the tvsv is a good little mod basically in first or second gear you only get 9psi boost, if u block the tvsv you will get full boost in first and second gear.
Engine cover stuck on the under side of the bonnet get rid of that will bring down bay temperatures.
You can up the boost from 0.9bar to 1.1bar but dont go any higher or you will hit fuel cut, you can only go higher once you get a remappable ecu.
You can go the cheap way round and use a manual boost controller just hook up a gauge to get the boost correct. If you hit fuel cut the car will shunt forward and lose power or you can use an electronic boost controller which is more accurate but more expensive, i have a greddy profec specII in my skyline and there great
Getting rid of the cat and getting a de-cat is good idea and saves so much weightt as the standard cat weighs an absolute ton.
you can chop the decat and welded a racing cat in the middle so you dont have to keep taking the de-cat off and putting the cat back on for mot
I think there is a loop hole somewhere on jap imports, up to a certain year engines dont need a full cat emisions test.... something like that but im sure someone else will know a bit more on the issue
Darren
Think u have the right idea keeping it fairly standard.
![[Image: FB_IMG_1474048273787_zpsnbfq6a3s.jpg]](http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee440/davis5835/Mobile%20Uploads/FB_IMG_1474048273787_zpsnbfq6a3s.jpg)
We've already been looking at decat pipes on Japspeed as they seem reasonable.
Ahah Chris when I text you we were off on junction 10 M6 and as soon as we hit the motorway again thats when you text back :')
Thanks guys, needs a good polish as only the back end has been done as that's glistening at the moment, as he only polished that to show the difference between the polished and unpolished paint
Dark Samurai
17-07-2018, 10:47 PM #15Cheers for that Darren!
We've already been looking at decat pipes on Japspeed as they seem reasonable.
Ahah Chris when I text you we were off on junction 10 M6 and as soon as we hit the motorway again thats when you text back :')
Thanks guys, needs a good polish as only the back end has been done as that's glistening at the moment, as he only polished that to show the difference between the polished and unpolished paint
You don't need to muck about much to get the power up, my MR2 made ~285 at the fly without even a boost increase. Yours is a UK car though, so as you are discovering it will have a bit of rot here and there, and will be mapped for 95RON fuel not 99. Think they are about 230 stock? As mentioned, boost controller at 1.1BAR is more or less all you need.
How are the figure 8 bushes holding up?
Edit: Oh yeah, heatwrap the underside of the chargecooler so it gets less heatsoak from the head.
Nice car, I do love a good GT4. You won't find the rpm that much lower cruising than the Corolla though
You don't need to muck about much to get the power up, my MR2 made ~285 at the fly without even a boost increase. Yours is a UK car though, so as you are discovering it will have a bit of rot here and there, and will be mapped for 95RON fuel not 99. Think they are about 230 stock? As mentioned, boost controller at 1.1BAR is more or less all you need.
How are the figure 8 bushes holding up?
Edit: Oh yeah, heatwrap the underside of the chargecooler so it gets less heatsoak from the head.
Dark Samurai
18-07-2018, 12:26 AM #17Fig 8's were changed by previous owner mate, and yeah I've heard about heatwrapping the underside of the CC.
It was good enough for TTE's WRC team, which tells you all you need to know
I wouldn't bother swapping the chargecooler out for an FMIC. The CC is super efficient anyway, it has a MASSIVE radiator and is proven good for 450+BHP. Plus you have to **** about with the ECU when you take it off to get rid of code 54. You can swap for an MR2 ECU to lose the chargecooler control but they make less power...
It was good enough for TTE's WRC team, which tells you all you need to know
My son had one and he used to push it so hard and it never let him down...
The only thing with his was it was lowered and it was a really hard drive, but boy did it move and hold the road.
Looks a nice car Phil...
What that three cars in less than a year lol
The engine are so strong on these, I think most of the mr2 engine parts fit on these are they shared the shame units.
My son had one and he used to push it so hard and it never let him down...
The only thing with his was it was lowered and it was a really hard drive, but boy did it move and hold the road.
Looks a nice car Phil...
What that three cars in less than a year lol
3 Guest(s)
3 Guest(s)
Views 3,908
Last Post by
Views 12,875
Last Post by
Views 44,385
Last Post by
Views 6,089
Last Post by
Views 1,190
Last Post by
Views 3,620
Last Post by
Views 3,559
Last Post by