Anyone got experience with these GPS/GSM trackers
Anyone got experience with these GPS/GSM trackers
2002 '02' IS200 SE Auto - DVD Satnav with Voice Activation - [COLOR="Blue"]Strathcaron Blue - Parking Sensors - 5000K HIDs with Anti-Glare Bulbs - PIAA 6500K Main Beams - LED Sidelights - Mirror/Sunroof Closure - TTE Styling Kit - 18" Styling Kit Alloys with nitrogen filled Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric Tyres - Bluetouch Multimedia Kit - Gromaudio AUX in - Black painted calipers with silver Lexus decals - 12 LED Dome Light - 96 LED Boot Light - Stainless Steel Sport Sill Plates - PIAA Silicone Wipers[/COLOR]
It would be cool if there was a way to trigger the car's limp mode
2002 '02' IS200 SE Auto - DVD Satnav with Voice Activation - [COLOR="Blue"]Strathcaron Blue - Parking Sensors - 5000K HIDs with Anti-Glare Bulbs - PIAA 6500K Main Beams - LED Sidelights - Mirror/Sunroof Closure - TTE Styling Kit - 18" Styling Kit Alloys with nitrogen filled Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric Tyres - Bluetouch Multimedia Kit - Gromaudio AUX in - Black painted calipers with silver Lexus decals - 12 LED Dome Light - 96 LED Boot Light - Stainless Steel Sport Sill Plates - PIAA Silicone Wipers[/COLOR]
![[Image: LexuS-Copy.jpg]](http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h204/Sparkystav/LexuS-Copy.jpg)
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
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Sparkystav
11-11-2018, 02:36 AM #12Using it to disconnect something like the map/maf sensor would put the car in limp mode won't it?
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav Using it to disconnect something like the map/maf sensor would put the car in limp mode won't it?
That might be a better option, though is it not still possible to get the car up to a reasonable speed in limp mode?
I suppose the best way would be to cut the sparks off? Ignition would be another option I suppose, but I'm guessing that could be pretty dangerous if ABS/PAS also died. I'm not sure how the steering lock would respond on my car either as it's electric rather than mechanical.
Sparkystav Using it to disconnect something like the map/maf sensor would put the car in limp mode won't it?
That might be a better option, though is it not still possible to get the car up to a reasonable speed in limp mode?
I suppose the best way would be to cut the sparks off? Ignition would be another option I suppose, but I'm guessing that could be pretty dangerous if ABS/PAS also died. I'm not sure how the steering lock would respond on my car either as it's electric rather than mechanical.
other option is some serious sound bombs mounted in the car and engine bay etc you could activate them which would draw huge amounts of attention to the car if they steal it....
yeah it should do what you have to weigh up with any type of kill switch it will most likely cut all power as in the name kill switch but this would also effect brakes and steering and thus could do more damage to the car if they crash it due to such kill switch.....
other option is some serious sound bombs mounted in the car and engine bay etc you could activate them which would draw huge amounts of attention to the car if they steal it....
Do what your low-rent terrorists do and connect a low voltage relay to the vibrate motor output of a mobile phone:
http://davehacks.troublem8ker.com/wordpress/?p=4
Connect that low voltage relay to the coil of a latching relay circuit:
http://www.eleinmec.com/article.asp?24
Use one of the green (single pole, double throw) relays rather than the yellow (single pole, single throw) relays. The "normally closed" contacts are what the car is connected to. When the latching relay fires it disconnects those and it'll stay disconnected until the car battery runs flat or you hit the disconnect switch.
You could connect horn and lights to the "normally open" contact, but I wouldn't. Just connect the rear lights, and to some weirdo flashing pattern.
Can also create an "electrical fire" by using the "normally open" contact to short the battery across a long length of heavily insulated but light gauge wire inside some sort of fireproof but not smellproof canister. (a fire bucket made of thick stainless mesh loacted near the heater inlet/inside the heater box) Tricker inside a modern car than old classics as there are actually things that might catch on fire LOL. When lots of acrid electrical smoke pours out and the car stops "alarm" isn't usually the first thing that comes to mind, or "quick, torch it to hide the evidence"
Then find out roughly where the car is using one of the PAYG services. (register first)
http://www.childlocate.co.uk/
http://www.followus.co.uk/homeusers.html
If your jock-off great Alsatian tears the thief's head off before you manage to stop him that's far less of a problem than you causing them serious injury in self-defence.
In all seriousness though, think about why its being nicked. If its a classic going for scrap/bangers, just finding out roughly where it is is good enough. If its something being joyridden, how likely are they to torch it to hide the evidence before you can get to it; versus it being crashed almost immediately; vs just calling in the police to look for your car "somewhere in this area" - oh, and for your convenience the alarm is flashing the rear indicators/fogs/brake lights/reversing lights in a crazy pattern.
Fire bad - nothing is saved. Crash bad - but not as bad as fire. DIY find - satisfying but will you keep your cool/hide the bodies well enough to avoid time at her majesty's pleasure, or will you return home 6 months later to find all your cars and your house on fire once they've been let out on good behaviour? Police find, given an approximate location and a strange set of flashing lights - probably the lesser of all evils.
But you can make it yourself with two small aubergines...
Do what your low-rent terrorists do and connect a low voltage relay to the vibrate motor output of a mobile phone:
http://davehacks.troublem8ker.com/wordpress/?p=4
Connect that low voltage relay to the coil of a latching relay circuit:
http://www.eleinmec.com/article.asp?24
Use one of the green (single pole, double throw) relays rather than the yellow (single pole, single throw) relays. The "normally closed" contacts are what the car is connected to. When the latching relay fires it disconnects those and it'll stay disconnected until the car battery runs flat or you hit the disconnect switch.
You could connect horn and lights to the "normally open" contact, but I wouldn't. Just connect the rear lights, and to some weirdo flashing pattern.
Can also create an "electrical fire" by using the "normally open" contact to short the battery across a long length of heavily insulated but light gauge wire inside some sort of fireproof but not smellproof canister. (a fire bucket made of thick stainless mesh loacted near the heater inlet/inside the heater box) Tricker inside a modern car than old classics as there are actually things that might catch on fire LOL. When lots of acrid electrical smoke pours out and the car stops "alarm" isn't usually the first thing that comes to mind, or "quick, torch it to hide the evidence"
Then find out roughly where the car is using one of the PAYG services. (register first)
http://www.childlocate.co.uk/
http://www.followus.co.uk/homeusers.html
If your jock-off great Alsatian tears the thief's head off before you manage to stop him that's far less of a problem than you causing them serious injury in self-defence.
In all seriousness though, think about why its being nicked. If its a classic going for scrap/bangers, just finding out roughly where it is is good enough. If its something being joyridden, how likely are they to torch it to hide the evidence before you can get to it; versus it being crashed almost immediately; vs just calling in the police to look for your car "somewhere in this area" - oh, and for your convenience the alarm is flashing the rear indicators/fogs/brake lights/reversing lights in a crazy pattern.
Fire bad - nothing is saved. Crash bad - but not as bad as fire. DIY find - satisfying but will you keep your cool/hide the bodies well enough to avoid time at her majesty's pleasure, or will you return home 6 months later to find all your cars and your house on fire once they've been let out on good behaviour? Police find, given an approximate location and a strange set of flashing lights - probably the lesser of all evils.
2002 '02' IS200 SE Auto - DVD Satnav with Voice Activation - [COLOR="Blue"]Strathcaron Blue - Parking Sensors - 5000K HIDs with Anti-Glare Bulbs - PIAA 6500K Main Beams - LED Sidelights - Mirror/Sunroof Closure - TTE Styling Kit - 18" Styling Kit Alloys with nitrogen filled Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric Tyres - Bluetouch Multimedia Kit - Gromaudio AUX in - Black painted calipers with silver Lexus decals - 12 LED Dome Light - 96 LED Boot Light - Stainless Steel Sport Sill Plates - PIAA Silicone Wipers[/COLOR]
One question I have though is that isn't the Mercedes standard security system pretty good? I know there are no deadlocks, but other than that they're pretty secure and the only real way of taking the car is with the key or on a trailer?
2002 '02' IS200 SE Auto - DVD Satnav with Voice Activation - [COLOR="Blue"]Strathcaron Blue - Parking Sensors - 5000K HIDs with Anti-Glare Bulbs - PIAA 6500K Main Beams - LED Sidelights - Mirror/Sunroof Closure - TTE Styling Kit - 18" Styling Kit Alloys with nitrogen filled Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric Tyres - Bluetouch Multimedia Kit - Gromaudio AUX in - Black painted calipers with silver Lexus decals - 12 LED Dome Light - 96 LED Boot Light - Stainless Steel Sport Sill Plates - PIAA Silicone Wipers[/COLOR]
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
17-11-2018, 05:17 AM #17Parthiban is correct Merc alarm/immobilisers are Cat 1, very hard to get past without the keys, which is why keys are stolen 1st. The weakest link is the key and where its put at night.
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
if your main aim is to have it track the car maybe turn on features then fair enough, you could have it to operate wig wag headlights and tail lights this would draw attention to the car in the event that you notice its been stolen......
you can of course add a secondary security feature to the car a personal immobiliser or hidden switch biometric etc.
if your main aim is to have it track the car maybe turn on features then fair enough, you could have it to operate wig wag headlights and tail lights this would draw attention to the car in the event that you notice its been stolen......
http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?s...87428&st=0
Sending Doc Brown back in time with a condom for their father is the best option for catching them before they've torched it, crashed it, or broken it for spares. Eugenics got a bad name courtesy of Hitler though.
Prevention doesn't always work though? Sometimes worse than not - once they've had a go they'll want to hide their tracks:
http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?s...87428&st=0
Sending Doc Brown back in time with a condom for their father is the best option for catching them before they've torched it, crashed it, or broken it for spares. Eugenics got a bad name courtesy of Hitler though.
2tongues Parthiban is correct Merc alarm/immobilisers are Cat 1, very hard to get past without the keys, which is why keys are stolen 1st. The weakest link is the key and where its put at night.
Indeed. Like most cars these days, the easiest way to steal them is with the keys.
Problem is, if you hide the keys then you can end up being confronted by some hyped up junkie with a knife at 2am screaming at you to show him where they are. But if you leave the keys somewhere easy'ish to find then you open yourself up to opportunist who have a fishing rod with a magnet on the end.
So best route (imo) is to let them take it if they want it, but then have some way of making the car useless and retrieving it once you realise its gone. Or at least track it and relay the info to the cops - but without paying the OTT costs for a real tracker.
2tongues Parthiban is correct Merc alarm/immobilisers are Cat 1, very hard to get past without the keys, which is why keys are stolen 1st. The weakest link is the key and where its put at night.
Indeed. Like most cars these days, the easiest way to steal them is with the keys.
Problem is, if you hide the keys then you can end up being confronted by some hyped up junkie with a knife at 2am screaming at you to show him where they are. But if you leave the keys somewhere easy'ish to find then you open yourself up to opportunist who have a fishing rod with a magnet on the end.
So best route (imo) is to let them take it if they want it, but then have some way of making the car useless and retrieving it once you realise its gone. Or at least track it and relay the info to the cops - but without paying the OTT costs for a real tracker.
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