JapCarForum Car Manufacturers Lexus/Toyota IS200 / IS300 / SPORTCROSS / Altezza My DIY Induction Kit (Pic Heavy!)

My DIY Induction Kit (Pic Heavy!)

My DIY Induction Kit (Pic Heavy!)

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sprinter2012
Posting Freak
2,484
11-06-2018, 08:12 AM
#1
So I finally had all the parts, the time to do it and the weather behaved itself today so I thought I'd crack on with my induction kit.

I took the advice of most people, and just bought all the parts myself and decided to make my own, I am after all supposed to be an engineer Smile

I'll put pictures of the finished article in my project thread as well, but I didn't want to clog it up with millions of pictures.

Terminology:

ID = Inner Diameter
OD = Outer Diameter
TB = Throttle Body
WOT = Wide Open Throttle
IAT = Intake Air Temperature

So first a quick rundown of the parts I used...

1 x 63mm ID 90* Elbow
1 x 63mm ID 45* Elbow
1 x 76-63mm Straight Reducer
6 x 63-80mm ID Hose Clamps
1 x 1m 63mm OD
1 x Apexi Air Filter w/76mm Adapter Flange

I haven't gone into huge detail with which exact bolts to undo etc. Because it's pretty easy to work out Smile

First things first, here's how my engine bay started off before the install...

[Image: DSC00405.jpg]

And then with the OEM air box and scoop removed, you'll also notice the oil catch can and some of my blue cabling I fitted last week in preparation for this...

[Image: DSC00480.jpg]

First things first, I measure up how much aluminium tube I would need to get across the engine, didn't have to be super accurate as you can lose or gain over an inch depending how far in you insert it into the silicone bends.

Then time for some cutting...

[Image: DSC00477.jpg]

With the length now roughly right I test fitted the 90* and 45* for positioning...

[Image: DSC00484.jpg]

Length-wise it was spot on, but it sat a little high for my liking at the TB end which meant it sloped down slightly...

[Image: DSC00486.jpg]

So I chopped about an inch off the lower half of the 90* bend to drop it down level (you can see in the picture below one length is now shorted than the other).

Once that was sorted I drilled an 18mm hole in the front face of the 90* bend, should have been 19.5 but I was worried it would be oversized due to not drilling cleanly which turned out to be a good thing!

[Image: DSC00487.jpg]

This was so I could use the proper sealing grommet from the air box to refit the IAT sensor properly and not have to glue it in with silicone.

[Image: DSC00488.jpg]

[Image: DSC00489.jpg]

I then had to extend the IAT sensor wires about 3 inches so they would reach the sensor in its new position...

[Image: DSC00491.jpg]

Once that part was sorted I stuck the air filter down behind the headlight where I wanted it, and measured from the end of the reducer on the filter, to the 45* bend and then added an inch either end. Another session on the saw and I ended up with this...

[Image: DSC00495.jpg]

And an overall shot at the end...(with my newly fitted radiator panel tooSmile)

[Image: DSC00494.jpg]

It's still not properly fastened down, but because of where I routed it, it's just resting on the power steering lines at the moment which it supporting the filter end so it will be fine for now until I can find a good way of securing it.

I will also now start my planning for an engine cover, which will probably start off as an offcut of 1.5mm aluminium I have laying around, and I will then cover it in carbon cloth and lacquer it.
sprinter2012
11-06-2018, 08:12 AM #1

So I finally had all the parts, the time to do it and the weather behaved itself today so I thought I'd crack on with my induction kit.

I took the advice of most people, and just bought all the parts myself and decided to make my own, I am after all supposed to be an engineer Smile

I'll put pictures of the finished article in my project thread as well, but I didn't want to clog it up with millions of pictures.

Terminology:

ID = Inner Diameter
OD = Outer Diameter
TB = Throttle Body
WOT = Wide Open Throttle
IAT = Intake Air Temperature

So first a quick rundown of the parts I used...

1 x 63mm ID 90* Elbow
1 x 63mm ID 45* Elbow
1 x 76-63mm Straight Reducer
6 x 63-80mm ID Hose Clamps
1 x 1m 63mm OD
1 x Apexi Air Filter w/76mm Adapter Flange

I haven't gone into huge detail with which exact bolts to undo etc. Because it's pretty easy to work out Smile

First things first, here's how my engine bay started off before the install...

[Image: DSC00405.jpg]

And then with the OEM air box and scoop removed, you'll also notice the oil catch can and some of my blue cabling I fitted last week in preparation for this...

[Image: DSC00480.jpg]

First things first, I measure up how much aluminium tube I would need to get across the engine, didn't have to be super accurate as you can lose or gain over an inch depending how far in you insert it into the silicone bends.

Then time for some cutting...

[Image: DSC00477.jpg]

With the length now roughly right I test fitted the 90* and 45* for positioning...

[Image: DSC00484.jpg]

Length-wise it was spot on, but it sat a little high for my liking at the TB end which meant it sloped down slightly...

[Image: DSC00486.jpg]

So I chopped about an inch off the lower half of the 90* bend to drop it down level (you can see in the picture below one length is now shorted than the other).

Once that was sorted I drilled an 18mm hole in the front face of the 90* bend, should have been 19.5 but I was worried it would be oversized due to not drilling cleanly which turned out to be a good thing!

[Image: DSC00487.jpg]

This was so I could use the proper sealing grommet from the air box to refit the IAT sensor properly and not have to glue it in with silicone.

[Image: DSC00488.jpg]

[Image: DSC00489.jpg]

I then had to extend the IAT sensor wires about 3 inches so they would reach the sensor in its new position...

[Image: DSC00491.jpg]

Once that part was sorted I stuck the air filter down behind the headlight where I wanted it, and measured from the end of the reducer on the filter, to the 45* bend and then added an inch either end. Another session on the saw and I ended up with this...

[Image: DSC00495.jpg]

And an overall shot at the end...(with my newly fitted radiator panel tooSmile)

[Image: DSC00494.jpg]

It's still not properly fastened down, but because of where I routed it, it's just resting on the power steering lines at the moment which it supporting the filter end so it will be fine for now until I can find a good way of securing it.

I will also now start my planning for an engine cover, which will probably start off as an offcut of 1.5mm aluminium I have laying around, and I will then cover it in carbon cloth and lacquer it.

Kevpr
Senior Member
379
11-06-2018, 08:15 AM
#2
Looks good mate!
Kevpr
11-06-2018, 08:15 AM #2

Looks good mate!

Lexusboy
Posting Freak
9,267
11-06-2018, 08:29 AM
#3
Looking Good I have added a rep for showing how you did it so clearly
Lexusboy
11-06-2018, 08:29 AM #3

Looking Good I have added a rep for showing how you did it so clearly

Sparkystav
Administrator
14,683
11-06-2018, 10:19 AM
#4
Plus rep as well mate, great write up

OutlawJapClub Admin Team
Sparkystav
11-06-2018, 10:19 AM #4

Plus rep as well mate, great write up


OutlawJapClub Admin Team

cameron
Senior Member
564
11-06-2018, 12:13 PM
#5
Why was this not done years ago before I splashed out over 190 buck for my prolix one lol.

[Image: 25042008020-1.jpg]
cameron
11-06-2018, 12:13 PM #5

Why was this not done years ago before I splashed out over 190 buck for my prolix one lol.


[Image: 25042008020-1.jpg]

fluff
Senior Member
688
11-06-2018, 12:31 PM
#6
Excellent work there.
fluff
11-06-2018, 12:31 PM #6

Excellent work there.

sprinter2012
Posting Freak
2,484
11-06-2018, 12:41 PM
#7
cameron Why was this not done years ago before I splashed out over 190 buck for my prolix one lol.

Ooh yees, while your on the subject of price (and not trying to rub it in further)

Minus the catch can which technically is optional because I could have just stuck the breather filter straight on.

The bends, reducer, pipe and filter all totalled less that £100 Smile

Now take for example the Pipercross induction kit...£250!

[Image: getimage.asp?f=PK273_after&w=500]

Or the pr0lex one, cheaper but still £165!

[Image: IMG_8973.jpg]

And on that note, you could make an induction kit that takes the same route as the pr0lex one with the exact same parts I made mine with Smile
Edited 23-07-2011, 10:16 PM by sprinter2012.
sprinter2012
11-06-2018, 12:41 PM #7

cameron Why was this not done years ago before I splashed out over 190 buck for my prolix one lol.

Ooh yees, while your on the subject of price (and not trying to rub it in further)

Minus the catch can which technically is optional because I could have just stuck the breather filter straight on.

The bends, reducer, pipe and filter all totalled less that £100 Smile

Now take for example the Pipercross induction kit...£250!

[Image: getimage.asp?f=PK273_after&w=500]

Or the pr0lex one, cheaper but still £165!

[Image: IMG_8973.jpg]

And on that note, you could make an induction kit that takes the same route as the pr0lex one with the exact same parts I made mine with Smile

fluff
Senior Member
688
11-06-2018, 12:54 PM
#8
My Injen was near £250 and had to come from the States.

You might have a queue of people placing orders Smile
fluff
11-06-2018, 12:54 PM #8

My Injen was near £250 and had to come from the States.

You might have a queue of people placing orders Smile

FunkMasterJay
Member
160
12-06-2018, 09:38 AM
#9
woop woop. nice. Big Grin
FunkMasterJay
12-06-2018, 09:38 AM #9

woop woop. nice. Big Grin

spud1973
Member
240
12-06-2018, 09:46 AM
#10
I'm waiting to see the engine cover plus 1 rep for a top job
spud1973
12-06-2018, 09:46 AM #10

I'm waiting to see the engine cover plus 1 rep for a top job

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