auto folding mirrors
auto folding mirrors
Lexus IS200 Mods--TTE Supercharger, Tein Superstreet Coilovers & EDFC, 6000K HID Lights, HKS Silent High Power Exhaust, DBA Front Discs, Kenwood DNX9240 Head Unit, 19" Rims, TRD Kit, FIGS Bonnet Struts, Greddy Pillar Pod & Defi Gauges, TTE Red ARBS . And Been To WIM twice
We'll all be pulsing on the way home :thumbup:
Lexus IS200 Mods--TTE Supercharger, Tein Superstreet Coilovers & EDFC, 6000K HID Lights, HKS Silent High Power Exhaust, DBA Front Discs, Kenwood DNX9240 Head Unit, 19" Rims, TRD Kit, FIGS Bonnet Struts, Greddy Pillar Pod & Defi Gauges, TTE Red ARBS . And Been To WIM twice
I decided it was probably best to bench test it before getting snipper happy on my car's wiring loom.
I connected it up to a 12v RC transmitter pack I had laying around and flicked the switch, All good so far.
Next I tapped the Alarm signal wire to the positive on the battery pack. I got a click from the relay, Then I waited for the relay to drop back to it's "Un powered" position.......... Urm...... "Huston, We have a problem". :o
All that seems to be happening is when I trigger it, the relay powers up for the split second the trigger wire's live.
I've adjusted the pot up all the way and back down to the bottom, But this doesn't change anything.
I'm wondering, Does the board need the electrical load from the mirrors retract motor to start timing properly? I can't see this being the answer because it's only the switching part of the relay that sees the full draw of the door mirrors motor.
I've gone over the board several times, Looking for mistakes, Incorrect component polarity, Dry joints, Solder joints that cross strips, etc, But I can see what I've done wrong.
Any pointers?
Scotty B.
Air filter by K+N, Exhaust by Japspeed, Brakes by Mintex......... And a scuffed rear arch by my sister.
Well, I built the board and wired in the relay.
I decided it was probably best to bench test it before getting snipper happy on my car's wiring loom.
I connected it up to a 12v RC transmitter pack I had laying around and flicked the switch, All good so far.
Next I tapped the Alarm signal wire to the positive on the battery pack. I got a click from the relay, Then I waited for the relay to drop back to it's "Un powered" position.......... Urm...... "Huston, We have a problem". :o
All that seems to be happening is when I trigger it, the relay powers up for the split second the trigger wire's live.
I've adjusted the pot up all the way and back down to the bottom, But this doesn't change anything.
I'm wondering, Does the board need the electrical load from the mirrors retract motor to start timing properly? I can't see this being the answer because it's only the switching part of the relay that sees the full draw of the door mirrors motor.
I've gone over the board several times, Looking for mistakes, Incorrect component polarity, Dry joints, Solder joints that cross strips, etc, But I can see what I've done wrong.
Any pointers?
Scotty B.
Air filter by K+N, Exhaust by Japspeed, Brakes by Mintex......... And a scuffed rear arch by my sister.
![[Image: LexuS-Copy.jpg]](http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h204/Sparkystav/LexuS-Copy.jpg)
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
25-11-2019, 12:05 PM #33I thought it was a negative trigger signal?
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
i would check the configuration and connection to the Pot as if its firing for a second and releasing that would indicate the potentiometer is not in the circuit correctly
the standard lexus is a positive trigger there shouldn't need to be a load on the unit for it to retract
i would check the configuration and connection to the Pot as if its firing for a second and releasing that would indicate the potentiometer is not in the circuit correctly
I used a PCB mounted Pot. I just de soldered the pot to test it off the board. When I put if back I overheated the copper strip and it cracked/came off the board.
I tried to bridge the gap with a stubby length of wire and made a right pigs ear of it....... the board now does the square root of naff all. :whistling:
I've got spares of most of the bit's so as I was also struggling with lead free solder (I've now found some of the old "Good stuff" one of my other tool boxes. :thumbup
I think I might just put another one together instead now.Scotty B.
Air filter by K+N, Exhaust by Japspeed, Brakes by Mintex......... And a scuffed rear arch by my sister.
Bu**er it !!!!!
I used a PCB mounted Pot. I just de soldered the pot to test it off the board. When I put if back I overheated the copper strip and it cracked/came off the board.
I tried to bridge the gap with a stubby length of wire and made a right pigs ear of it....... the board now does the square root of naff all. :whistling:
I've got spares of most of the bit's so as I was also struggling with lead free solder (I've now found some of the old "Good stuff" one of my other tool boxes. :thumbup I think I might just put another one together instead now.
Scotty B.
Air filter by K+N, Exhaust by Japspeed, Brakes by Mintex......... And a scuffed rear arch by my sister.
Mr Reman Bu**er it !!!!!
I used a PCB mounted Pot. I just de soldered the pot to test it off the board. When I put if back I overheated the copper strip and it cracked/came off the board.
I tried to bridge the gap with a stubby length of wire and made a right pigs ear of it....... the board now does the square root of naff all. :whistling:
I've got spares of most of the bit's so as I was also struggling with lead free solder (I've now found some of the old "Good stuff" one of my other tool boxes. :thumbup
Scotty B.
We have all been there mate
Slow and steady also check the diodes are the right way round if you have a Dremel you could cut the excess solder out the way lol
Mr Reman Bu**er it !!!!!
I used a PCB mounted Pot. I just de soldered the pot to test it off the board. When I put if back I overheated the copper strip and it cracked/came off the board.
I tried to bridge the gap with a stubby length of wire and made a right pigs ear of it....... the board now does the square root of naff all. :whistling:
I've got spares of most of the bit's so as I was also struggling with lead free solder (I've now found some of the old "Good stuff" one of my other tool boxes. :thumbup
Scotty B.
We have all been there mate
Slow and steady also check the diodes are the right way round if you have a Dremel you could cut the excess solder out the way lol
I'm trying to add the PCB mounted relay Directly onto the main board this time, Rather than on a separate board like I did last time....... And check everything as I go !!!!! :laugh:
Scotty B.
Air filter by K+N, Exhaust by Japspeed, Brakes by Mintex......... And a scuffed rear arch by my sister.
With my "Proper" solder, There shouldn't be any excess.:tongue_smilie:
I'm trying to add the PCB mounted relay Directly onto the main board this time, Rather than on a separate board like I did last time....... And check everything as I go !!!!! :laugh:
Scotty B.
Air filter by K+N, Exhaust by Japspeed, Brakes by Mintex......... And a scuffed rear arch by my sister.
To cut a long story short, I just started checked everything, and eventually, after finding an online resistor colour band chart it seems that the spotty little Herbert in Maplin either couldn't read my writing, Or couldn't read what was wrote on the stock room draws.
Instead of 3.3k and 4.7k resistors, I've got 33k and 47k ones.
As the shopping list I gave him was hand written (And reading my writing can be a bit of an acquired art), I can't really go off on one and claim that it's all his fault........ But that doesn't stop me wanting to ! :bored:
Scotty B.
Air filter by K+N, Exhaust by Japspeed, Brakes by Mintex......... And a scuffed rear arch by my sister.
Board 2 does exactly the same as the first.
To cut a long story short, I just started checked everything, and eventually, after finding an online resistor colour band chart it seems that the spotty little Herbert in Maplin either couldn't read my writing, Or couldn't read what was wrote on the stock room draws.
Instead of 3.3k and 4.7k resistors, I've got 33k and 47k ones.
As the shopping list I gave him was hand written (And reading my writing can be a bit of an acquired art), I can't really go off on one and claim that it's all his fault........ But that doesn't stop me wanting to ! :bored:
Scotty B.
Air filter by K+N, Exhaust by Japspeed, Brakes by Mintex......... And a scuffed rear arch by my sister.
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
25-11-2019, 04:28 PM #40Glad you figured it out mate, there's unsurprisingly a handy little iPhone app for resistor colours.
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
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