auto folding mirrors
auto folding mirrors
Sparkystav Glad you figured it out mate, there's unsurprisingly a handy little iPhone app for resistor colours.
Sparkystav Glad you figured it out mate, there's unsurprisingly a handy little iPhone app for resistor colours.
[COLOR="DarkOrchid"]I strongly resent that remark!!!!!!
me n my iphone are equally dangerous with a cold soldering iron![/COLOR]
purplewitch [COLOR="DarkOrchid"]I strongly resent that remark!!!!!!
me n my iphone are equally dangerous with a cold soldering iron![/COLOR]
purplewitch [COLOR="DarkOrchid"]I strongly resent that remark!!!!!!
me n my iphone are equally dangerous with a cold soldering iron![/COLOR]
Well, I replaced the wrong resistors and it still doesn't work properly. BU**ER!!!!
What this ones doing is when I power it up and try to trigger it nothing happens. I accidentally touched the wire I was using to trigger it to the strip with the relays positive coming off of it and it worked (Held the relay closed), But when I tried it again it would just hold the relay closed for the moment I had the trigger wire touching that strip. If I power it off and on again it does the same again (One timed holding the relays coil and then instant on off with trigger).
So, Before I give up on this for good I have a couple more stupid questions.....
In the PDF available from "The other site", I'm assuming that the copper strips you can see drawn are as if you can see them THROUGH the board, Your not meant to build this copper strip side up are you (Very unlikely I know, But I'm running out of ideas now)?
In this post over there it says that one of the wires for the potentiometer is in the wrong place. Trouble is that the updated diagram is now a dead link. Is the PDF I linked to in the last paragraph the latest correct version of the board?
What I thought would be a fun little couple of hour project is starting to take far to long to warrant the time it's taking. If I can't get this thing to work today I think I'm going to give up. :Sulk:
Scotty B.
your correct you build it on the opposite side to the track
you have cut away the tracks shown in white on the diagram havent you ?
can you post a pic of the top half of the board in detail and the lower half of the board in detail and focus so i cna look at the tracks etc ?
Rabster can you post a pic of the top half of the board in detail and the lower half of the board in detail and focus so i cna look at the tracks etc ?OK, I've just put my camera on charge so I should have some pictures up in about 30 minutes.
Rabster can you post a pic of the top half of the board in detail and the lower half of the board in detail and focus so i cna look at the tracks etc ?OK, I've just put my camera on charge so I should have some pictures up in about 30 minutes.
Here you go......
I've coloured the cut and unused tracks black to make it easier to see what's going on. As I said, It's not a direct copy of the original in some aspects, But it's layed out roughly the same.
Does this add any clues?
Scotty B.
It's more a case that a couple of the components are relocated slightly than being a different circuit.
If you looked at the original diagram next to my board you'd be able to see what I mean. Things like C3 being an axial capacitor so I could fit it flush to the board, And the tweaking to fit a board mounted potentiometer.
Nothing major.
I've gone between all the copper tracks with a Stanley knife blade so there's nothing tracking between them.
I bet If you find something, It's going to be so bl**dy obvious that I feel a right tool.
Scotty B.