Little write up on the evolution of my car
Little write up on the evolution of my car
has the piston scored the bolck severley? cant quite tell from the picture.
jae 2010 best lexus category show and shine winner
jae 2010 ice outlaw award 2nd place
jae 2011 ice outlaw award 1st place
is300_dino
16-08-2020, 12:10 AM #1,173whats it done to the block mate? has the piston scored the bolck severley? cant quite tell from the picture.
jae 2010 best lexus category show and shine winner
jae 2010 ice outlaw award 2nd place
jae 2011 ice outlaw award 1st place
dunno what caused it, but im going to clean and flow test all the injectors and recheck everything else.
![[Image: LexuS-Copy.jpg]](http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h204/Sparkystav/LexuS-Copy.jpg)
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
16-08-2020, 12:35 AM #1,174yeah its scored the block, but ive got spare blocks.
dunno what caused it, but im going to clean and flow test all the injectors and recheck everything else.
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
jae 2010 best lexus category show and shine winner
jae 2010 ice outlaw award 2nd place
jae 2011 ice outlaw award 1st place
is300_dino
16-08-2020, 12:43 AM #1,175not going to bore it out and run some bigger pistons then?
jae 2010 best lexus category show and shine winner
jae 2010 ice outlaw award 2nd place
jae 2011 ice outlaw award 1st place
Found some standard GTE rods and pistons to fit in one of my other blocks.
I can save that block for the future if I do get uprated rods.
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
16-08-2020, 12:48 AM #1,176Can't afford the cost mate.
Found some standard GTE rods and pistons to fit in one of my other blocks.
I can save that block for the future if I do get uprated rods.
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
intrigued on what else you've got planned lol hope its not a secret for too long :p
jae 2010 best lexus category show and shine winner
jae 2010 ice outlaw award 2nd place
jae 2011 ice outlaw award 1st place
is300_dino
16-08-2020, 01:15 AM #1,177at least you've sourced some new ones which is good.
intrigued on what else you've got planned lol hope its not a secret for too long :p
jae 2010 best lexus category show and shine winner
jae 2010 ice outlaw award 2nd place
jae 2011 ice outlaw award 1st place
All Models
• Valve stem seals – 4AG, 7M
• Main bearings – 3SGTE (Need 2 sets, smaller number 1 bearing)
• Thrust bearings – 1GFE ones
• 1G/1J/2J/M motors will bolt to the Hilux G52 4WD gearbox, and the W56 2WD gearbox when using the W series bellhousings.
• Late 90's turbo diesel hilux clutch kit (pressure plate. clutch plate + bearing) will bolt straight onto the 1G flywheel. Wont slip flat changing into 3rd either........
• An IS200 1GFE complete gasket kit to rebuild a 1G turbo engine before and all gaskets were the same, so too seals and stem seals.
• The 1gfe cylinder head gasket, same as 1ggte, metal and thinner. will increase compression.
• 22RE pressure plate fits 1G Gen1/2 flywheel perfectly.
• 1G's use the same spigot/pilot bearing as 4A's.
Gen 1
• 42mm Big ends – 4K
• 22RE pressure plate fits 1G Gen1/2 flywheel perfectly.
Gen 3
• 44mm Big ends – ACL – Speak to head bloke
• IS200 crank is same part number
• Can use Toyota 2M rings for 1GGTE Gen3 with ring measurements;
Compression ring 1 = 1.5mm
Compression ring 2 = 1.5mm
Oil rings = 4mm
Set of 6 Chrome moly rings set me back $100
Extra info
• ACL Race series main bearing(to suit 3SGTE) as these are a 3/4 groove main bearing, this gives you more window for oil supply to the big ends but not sacrificing load capacity by going to a full groove main.
• Stock Toyota pistoned 4K (asco piston) has 2mm, 2mm, 4mm 1st, 2nd, oil rings. The 1GGTE has 1.2, 1.5 and 2.8mm
• I believe there are 2 different depths of oil ring for 4K pistons, at least within the stock pistons. ACL might be different again.
• compression ring groove depth of stock 4K piston is 3.8mm
• If you want to know, you can download the ACL catalogue online and search pistons rings based on bore size, or go to the Toyota section and look up the widths, and cross reference to what you measure from your 1G piston. While I didn't search online, we DID use the printed ACL book to get the correct rings and found them in the 4K range.
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
25-08-2020, 03:07 AM #1,178Right, ive been doing a lot of research into the 1GGTE engine and come up with some useful date so i thought id pass it on about alternative engines parts that fit etc:
All Models
• Valve stem seals – 4AG, 7M
• Main bearings – 3SGTE (Need 2 sets, smaller number 1 bearing)
• Thrust bearings – 1GFE ones
• 1G/1J/2J/M motors will bolt to the Hilux G52 4WD gearbox, and the W56 2WD gearbox when using the W series bellhousings.
• Late 90's turbo diesel hilux clutch kit (pressure plate. clutch plate + bearing) will bolt straight onto the 1G flywheel. Wont slip flat changing into 3rd either........
• An IS200 1GFE complete gasket kit to rebuild a 1G turbo engine before and all gaskets were the same, so too seals and stem seals.
• The 1gfe cylinder head gasket, same as 1ggte, metal and thinner. will increase compression.
• 22RE pressure plate fits 1G Gen1/2 flywheel perfectly.
• 1G's use the same spigot/pilot bearing as 4A's.
Gen 1
• 42mm Big ends – 4K
• 22RE pressure plate fits 1G Gen1/2 flywheel perfectly.
Gen 3
• 44mm Big ends – ACL – Speak to head bloke
• IS200 crank is same part number
• Can use Toyota 2M rings for 1GGTE Gen3 with ring measurements;
Compression ring 1 = 1.5mm
Compression ring 2 = 1.5mm
Oil rings = 4mm
Set of 6 Chrome moly rings set me back $100
Extra info
• ACL Race series main bearing(to suit 3SGTE) as these are a 3/4 groove main bearing, this gives you more window for oil supply to the big ends but not sacrificing load capacity by going to a full groove main.
• Stock Toyota pistoned 4K (asco piston) has 2mm, 2mm, 4mm 1st, 2nd, oil rings. The 1GGTE has 1.2, 1.5 and 2.8mm
• I believe there are 2 different depths of oil ring for 4K pistons, at least within the stock pistons. ACL might be different again.
• compression ring groove depth of stock 4K piston is 3.8mm
• If you want to know, you can download the ACL catalogue online and search pistons rings based on bore size, or go to the Toyota section and look up the widths, and cross reference to what you measure from your 1G piston. While I didn't search online, we DID use the printed ACL book to get the correct rings and found them in the 4K range.
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
• The car retains standard pistons, crank and rods,
• Runs Hastings rings, king big end bearings and ACL race series mains.
• We broke 2 stock import bottom ends, the factory oiling system simply doesn't supply enough oil to the big ends at the power levels the car is making and we just smashed big ends out of it. I have done a massive amount of oiling system mods.
• The head is massively ported; it’s taken about as far as I can go without putting bigger valves in it, which are still standard.
• The cams are as big as I could fit with 250 degrees duration at .050" and 9.2mm lift, and run my own billet CNC cam gears we designed for the engine.
• I've done oil restrictor to the head, head coolant bleeds which you can see returning just above the tappet cover to the top rad tank, and extra oil drain backs to the sump.
• It also runs ARP main studs and ARP head studs, and I'm working on a 20mm billet main girdle to tie the main caps to the sump rails.
• PS, yes they are the factory runners albeit power ported by Specialised Power Porting with an XF throttle.
• And yes, you read it correctly, 550hp@24psi, stock pistons, rods, crank, valves and intake Got to love Toyota engineering
• Oil pump is stock, it has a 1.2mm washer under it to increase the pressure, it has about 20psi of oil pressure at idle when hot and 65psi of oil pressure under full noise.
• The biggest things that need to have been addressed are radiusing all the oil galleries, making the ones in the block bigger, drilling out the main bearing shells, and opening up the clearances.
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
25-08-2020, 03:08 AM #1,179Also there is a chap in Aus thats goes by the name 6Boost, he is kind of the guy in the know with these engines. This is his motor:
• The car retains standard pistons, crank and rods,
• Runs Hastings rings, king big end bearings and ACL race series mains.
• We broke 2 stock import bottom ends, the factory oiling system simply doesn't supply enough oil to the big ends at the power levels the car is making and we just smashed big ends out of it. I have done a massive amount of oiling system mods.
• The head is massively ported; it’s taken about as far as I can go without putting bigger valves in it, which are still standard.
• The cams are as big as I could fit with 250 degrees duration at .050" and 9.2mm lift, and run my own billet CNC cam gears we designed for the engine.
• I've done oil restrictor to the head, head coolant bleeds which you can see returning just above the tappet cover to the top rad tank, and extra oil drain backs to the sump.
• It also runs ARP main studs and ARP head studs, and I'm working on a 20mm billet main girdle to tie the main caps to the sump rails.
• PS, yes they are the factory runners albeit power ported by Specialised Power Porting with an XF throttle.
• And yes, you read it correctly, 550hp@24psi, stock pistons, rods, crank, valves and intake Got to love Toyota engineering
• Oil pump is stock, it has a 1.2mm washer under it to increase the pressure, it has about 20psi of oil pressure at idle when hot and 65psi of oil pressure under full noise.
• The biggest things that need to have been addressed are radiusing all the oil galleries, making the ones in the block bigger, drilling out the main bearing shells, and opening up the clearances.
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
1. The first is pull the oil filter off, and have a look at where the oil comes from the oil pump into where the filter screws on. It’s the hole at the bottom. You can barely get your little finger in there. Grab a die grinder with a stone or pointy bur, and open up this hole. Don't just hog it out, but lay the edges back and round them over so not only is the oil coming through a bigger hole, it flows smoothly as it disperses. Imagine you’re porting a head and you want max flow, all nice and rounded.
2. Next, take the timing cover off the front. Have a look down the bottom right side of the block. There are 2 holes; one is the suction side from the sump, the other the pressure side from the oil pump. Do the same here, rather than sharp corners, round these out and smooth them into the surrounding material.
3. These are the first 2. If you’re still keen at this point, pull the threaded bit out of centre where the filter screws on. It goes in too far. Cut about 5mm off it, and held in a vice, radius both sides and round the corners so the oil flows around the corners into the block easier. You can radius inside the hole where we just pulled that piece out also, but I wouldn't advise this for the inexperienced, you can damage the thread in one little miss. Be careful, you only get to damage the thread once and it’s stuffed!!
4. The next 2 are a little trickier. The main oil galleries in the block that feed the mains are 7mm where it enters the bearings, but if you get a 7mm long shank drill and stick into the main oil holes, they are only 7mm for an inch or 2, then they go back to 6mm. Drill out main oil galleries 1 and 6(there are 7 main caps in total), the reason being, that the main oil gallery feeds the rods, and 1 and 6 rods/mains are the furthest from the centre where the oil feeds in, you don't want to increase them all, and don't do number 7, as it feeds nothing.
5. I have 2 more mods done to mine, but I'll only divulge one of them. The bearing shells when sat in the block don't line up with the centre of the oil hole that feeds them, they are off to one side. You need to find someone with a dremel tool or something very fine. You may be able to do it by hand with a very fine jewellers round file. Put masking tape on the bearing face and just uncover the hole in the bearing. Put some bearing blue on the back of the bearing and push the shells into the block. The hole will leave an outline where it lines up with the shell. You want to file out the shell so it matches this hole perfectly. I would get someone who knows what they are doing to do this. If you’re tricky you can do it yourself, but you need a scraping tool so when you’re done, you can cut/scrape a radius back on the edge of the hole so it’s not sharp. When your done, give the shells the very lightest of rubs with scotchbrite green pads and soapy water. Make sure everything is clean first. You’re just cleaning the surface, not trying to scratch a new finish on it!!!
6. There you have it. I have one more, but like I said, it’s staying with me. It is however not possible to do yourself and very tricky to do, and I don't know how many people out there "could" do it or have any idea how.
7. Lastly, check your clearances. You want around .002" on the mains on a 400rwhp street engine and .002-.0023 on the big ends. For a 500+hp engine I'd go .0022" mains and .0025" on the big ends.
8. Don't run thinner than 10w50 oil, and put a 1.2mm washer under the oil pump spring. If you use thinner oil, you will have very little oil pressure at idle when hot, less than 10-15psi. I personally run 15w60 Penrite oil, I think its HPR30. Street engines with tighter clearances you could run a 10w40 oil minimum, just keep an eye on hot oil pressure at idle. If it’s below 15psi, then chuck some thicker oil in.
9. I only use genuine Toyota oil filters, and run no oil cooler. For street applications one would be a good idea.
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
25-08-2020, 03:09 AM #1,180and finally some oil system mods he suggests:
1. The first is pull the oil filter off, and have a look at where the oil comes from the oil pump into where the filter screws on. It’s the hole at the bottom. You can barely get your little finger in there. Grab a die grinder with a stone or pointy bur, and open up this hole. Don't just hog it out, but lay the edges back and round them over so not only is the oil coming through a bigger hole, it flows smoothly as it disperses. Imagine you’re porting a head and you want max flow, all nice and rounded.
2. Next, take the timing cover off the front. Have a look down the bottom right side of the block. There are 2 holes; one is the suction side from the sump, the other the pressure side from the oil pump. Do the same here, rather than sharp corners, round these out and smooth them into the surrounding material.
3. These are the first 2. If you’re still keen at this point, pull the threaded bit out of centre where the filter screws on. It goes in too far. Cut about 5mm off it, and held in a vice, radius both sides and round the corners so the oil flows around the corners into the block easier. You can radius inside the hole where we just pulled that piece out also, but I wouldn't advise this for the inexperienced, you can damage the thread in one little miss. Be careful, you only get to damage the thread once and it’s stuffed!!
4. The next 2 are a little trickier. The main oil galleries in the block that feed the mains are 7mm where it enters the bearings, but if you get a 7mm long shank drill and stick into the main oil holes, they are only 7mm for an inch or 2, then they go back to 6mm. Drill out main oil galleries 1 and 6(there are 7 main caps in total), the reason being, that the main oil gallery feeds the rods, and 1 and 6 rods/mains are the furthest from the centre where the oil feeds in, you don't want to increase them all, and don't do number 7, as it feeds nothing.
5. I have 2 more mods done to mine, but I'll only divulge one of them. The bearing shells when sat in the block don't line up with the centre of the oil hole that feeds them, they are off to one side. You need to find someone with a dremel tool or something very fine. You may be able to do it by hand with a very fine jewellers round file. Put masking tape on the bearing face and just uncover the hole in the bearing. Put some bearing blue on the back of the bearing and push the shells into the block. The hole will leave an outline where it lines up with the shell. You want to file out the shell so it matches this hole perfectly. I would get someone who knows what they are doing to do this. If you’re tricky you can do it yourself, but you need a scraping tool so when you’re done, you can cut/scrape a radius back on the edge of the hole so it’s not sharp. When your done, give the shells the very lightest of rubs with scotchbrite green pads and soapy water. Make sure everything is clean first. You’re just cleaning the surface, not trying to scratch a new finish on it!!!
6. There you have it. I have one more, but like I said, it’s staying with me. It is however not possible to do yourself and very tricky to do, and I don't know how many people out there "could" do it or have any idea how.
7. Lastly, check your clearances. You want around .002" on the mains on a 400rwhp street engine and .002-.0023 on the big ends. For a 500+hp engine I'd go .0022" mains and .0025" on the big ends.
8. Don't run thinner than 10w50 oil, and put a 1.2mm washer under the oil pump spring. If you use thinner oil, you will have very little oil pressure at idle when hot, less than 10-15psi. I personally run 15w60 Penrite oil, I think its HPR30. Street engines with tighter clearances you could run a 10w40 oil minimum, just keep an eye on hot oil pressure at idle. If it’s below 15psi, then chuck some thicker oil in.
9. I only use genuine Toyota oil filters, and run no oil cooler. For street applications one would be a good idea.
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
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