Electric seat issues...
Electric seat issues...
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Hi all, as some of you may know im preparing to sell on the lex and i've notice one or to mechanical issues that i'm stumped with, for one the drivers side electric seat has "lost" some of its functions, i'm worried that the corresponding motors have gone, the problems are seat no longer has fron and back lateral movement and the raising and lowering of the front section of the seat, the rear section still works but feels intermittent, i think i may need to replace the seat unless its easier to replace the motors, any advice would be appreciated thanks
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
![[Image: LexuS-Copy.jpg]](http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h204/Sparkystav/LexuS-Copy.jpg)
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
07-06-2022, 11:04 AM #2It could be the motor or it could just be the switch contact. Need to get the seat out and test it to be honest.
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Checked my seat this weekend and found that the motor that tilts the front of the seat was shot even with the switch sending power tot he motor nothing would happen, the motor that moved the seat base forward or backwards worked but could not handle the load being put on it i lubricated the runners and the screw shaft and checked the wormgear as well and there was a lot of gunge in there so rather then stripping the entire seat i now need to find a replacement before i can sell the IS on.
* Firstly this "how to" if you will is based on how i found it easiest to do and is not he only way to do it. It is not particularly hard to do but does require a decent tool kit and a day to do if preparations were not done i.e. the base taken off donor seat in advance, removal of current seat done in advance etc.
So as stated before any of you with a sorted tool kit and some time on their hands will be able to pull this off without too many issues those that are unsure or don't know what a ratchet is please seek assistance from your local mechanic as this how to is performed at your own risk*
So before i get started on the how to i thought i would share the tools needed and the safety plug first...
As the driver seat does have an air bag built into it, It is advisable to Isolate the cars battery by removing one of the cables attached (in my case it was the Earth ("ground")or "-" pole, now that that is done we can start...
you will need:
Stubby Phillips (star) screwdriver
Long Phillips screwdriver
Ratchet
14 Socket
12 Socket
Torx socket - will confirm size later today
Ratchet extension
a container to keep all the screws, nuts and bolts safe.
So in My case i made my preparations by removing the parts i wanted from the donor seat last weekend and removed my drivers seat this morning straight after the weekly shop and took it into the kitchen where i could do the transplant out of the rain ad work on the dining room table, for those that have a work bench bonus!
Ok to start off place the seat top down on a towel if on a work bench like this:
![[Image: IMAG0150.jpg]](http://s40.photobucket.com/user/SpectraZA/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0150.jpg.html)
It will stop the leather from getting dirty or damaged and makes life easier to work on the fiddly bits...
To start off we need to remove the plastic shrouds on the sides of the seat (photo to follow) to do this is easy.
On the side with the switches start by getting a good even grip on the switch and pulling it away from the shroud it needs a fair old yank, and if using a tool may be easier, but i find unprotected tools could cause chips or tool marks in the plastic so preferred doing it by hand, eventually they should just pop off.
Behind the switches there should be a number of screws between the bare switches unscrew these and put them in the container, then follow the shroud to the rear of the seat you will find another deep screw unscrew this too, once unscrewed the shroud should pop off quite easily.
Moving onto the other side of the seat now (the side of the seatbelt lock) you will be able to see the little black screws just remember there is one near the rear of the seat as well, to remove this shroud though you will need to use the 14 socket and ratchet to unbolt the seat belt lock, be careful as there is a little wire coming out of here too and will need to be unplugged...At this point you should be able to pop off this shroud
There is a thin long shroud on the front of the seat help on with 2 small screws as well and found this useful if loosened but is clipped to the seat leather and chose to leave it clipped...
Once the shrouds are off/loosened start unplugging all the plugs from the motors, switches and sensors. Of all the mounting points for the wiring harness only 3 need to be unclipped, the yellow (airbag) plug mounted to the front of the seat the power plug also on the front of the seat and the seat belt plug, if careful you should be able to reuse them later...
![[Image: IMAG0151.jpg]](http://s40.photobucket.com/user/SpectraZA/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0151.jpg.html)
![[Image: 2f20fedc-84e2-4e1f-a6b6-81c71e1901e2.jpg]](http://s40.photobucket.com/user/SpectraZA/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2f20fedc-84e2-4e1f-a6b6-81c71e1901e2.jpg.html)
Once all the plugs are unplugged and the 3 mounts have been loosened we can start unbolting the runners and the motors...
For me I chose to replace all the motors for the newer working ones (might as well) so i started with the easiest motor situated on the side of the seat next to the switch cluster, unscrew the 2 screws at the base of the shaft, but be careful the shaft can come out on other side so help it by pulling on the plastic tube surrounding the shaft and remember to bring along the little plastic cap, this motor works the backrest tilt function, you can at this point remove the switch cluster as well, there are 3 screws holding it onto the base of the seat, one of which id hidden behind the leather side of the seat this is where i used the long Phillips screwdriver
![[Image: 32eb9b7b-7b39-4ae9-abd4-b836771f12d7.jpg]](http://s40.photobucket.com/user/SpectraZA/media/Mobile%20Uploads/32eb9b7b-7b39-4ae9-abd4-b836771f12d7.jpg.html)
The next step is to move to the other side now again where the seat belt lock was we need to loosen the mounting bracket for the belt lock and it requires the loosening of 3 nuts and both sockets...
The nuts are situated in the following positions:
![[Image: c7e01e10-fd2b-4fd4-8f2c-ac4ec86e273b.jpg]](http://s40.photobucket.com/user/SpectraZA/media/Mobile%20Uploads/c7e01e10-fd2b-4fd4-8f2c-ac4ec86e273b.jpg.html)
Starting with the nut at the top of the last photo, this is "hidden" behind a plastic clip you need to lift the plastic over the top of the nut and push back to unclip this from the rear end of the runner.
This nut requires the 14 socket to loosen
The 2 others require the 12 socket, the reason for loosening all 3 nuts is that the belt lock bracket blocks a bolt we need to get to as well as creates tension to a torque bar running across the runners, so the bracket has to go, unfortunately this is a bit of a faf but the bottom 2 nuts help release a bit of the tension on the bar allowing you to twist the bracket out and over the mounting bolts...
![[Image: 1fbaed1b-ef22-4176-ba42-cb02737ca67b.jpg]](http://s40.photobucket.com/user/SpectraZA/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1fbaed1b-ef22-4176-ba42-cb02737ca67b.jpg.html)
Once the bracket is out of the way, we can get to this bolt...
![[Image: d5e47590-218d-45f7-bf3f-20f6e3b28cab.jpg]](http://s40.photobucket.com/user/SpectraZA/media/Mobile%20Uploads/d5e47590-218d-45f7-bf3f-20f6e3b28cab.jpg.html)
Once we can get to this bolt, the hard part is over, you will find 4 of these torqx bolts fastening similar "arms" to the seat base, 2 on the front of the seat and another on the other side of the seat at the rear, once these are loosened the runner sub assembly along with one of the motors should come free, if you are like me and want to replace all the motors you will want to continue on to the next step, other wise if its just the runners you were replacing you are pretty much done, all you need to do to fit the new runners is the reverse of what you have done so far...
The next step is nothing really it is really just the second last step to removing the last of the motors as well so to do that you will need to look for 2 size 12 bolts situated at the front of the seat and will require the extension for these and fasten the rest of the seat chassis to the seat base...
![[Image: 661d1676-7dc8-4a82-8940-da3a47e0f3b7.jpg]](http://s40.photobucket.com/user/SpectraZA/media/Mobile%20Uploads/661d1676-7dc8-4a82-8940-da3a47e0f3b7.jpg.html)
![[Image: cbad2568-908e-4fa6-9aac-d196f0fc3c34.jpg]](http://s40.photobucket.com/user/SpectraZA/media/Mobile%20Uploads/cbad2568-908e-4fa6-9aac-d196f0fc3c34.jpg.html)
Once these have been removed the rest of the base should be able to pivot enough so you can get the stubby Phillips screwdriver in to undo the last motor, obviously to fit this motor will be the reverse but in the seat being put back in the car, once this is don then the rail sub assembly can be fitted over top, also in the reverse manner...
A quick note though the seat belt bracket a little more difficult to put back but be patient with the 2 smaller nuts loosened the bracket for the main shaft should pivot making it easier to put the belt lock bracket back on the bolts where it belongs be sure to make sure the Torsion bar is properly seated before tightening this section down, the last thing you want to happen is you finish up and the darn thing falls out of the seat... grab hold of it and check its seated right before continuing.
Another note : at the time of writing this how too i could not find all of the photos, I will try find the rest or take new ones but if something doesn't make sense please let me know...
Otherwise i hope this How to is useful as it is my first proper one and good luck!
Last weekend i managed to obtain a fairly clean replacement seat or rather donor seat, it was clean enough to just replace the one i had but the perforated alcantara centres on this one were a different black a purer black mine gave of a blue-ish sheen, and mine were still in good nick, so i opted to just keep my seat and replace the mechanisms under it, but as part of the problem was the actual runners i decided to replace the hole runner section with motors, and in the words of the great DJ Run DMC... "Went a 'lil somethin' like this"...
* Firstly this "how to" if you will is based on how i found it easiest to do and is not he only way to do it. It is not particularly hard to do but does require a decent tool kit and a day to do if preparations were not done i.e. the base taken off donor seat in advance, removal of current seat done in advance etc.
So as stated before any of you with a sorted tool kit and some time on their hands will be able to pull this off without too many issues those that are unsure or don't know what a ratchet is please seek assistance from your local mechanic as this how to is performed at your own risk*
So before i get started on the how to i thought i would share the tools needed and the safety plug first...
As the driver seat does have an air bag built into it, It is advisable to Isolate the cars battery by removing one of the cables attached (in my case it was the Earth ("ground")or "-" pole, now that that is done we can start...
you will need:
Stubby Phillips (star) screwdriver
Long Phillips screwdriver
Ratchet
14 Socket
12 Socket
Torx socket - will confirm size later today
Ratchet extension
a container to keep all the screws, nuts and bolts safe.
So in My case i made my preparations by removing the parts i wanted from the donor seat last weekend and removed my drivers seat this morning straight after the weekly shop and took it into the kitchen where i could do the transplant out of the rain ad work on the dining room table, for those that have a work bench bonus!
Ok to start off place the seat top down on a towel if on a work bench like this:
It will stop the leather from getting dirty or damaged and makes life easier to work on the fiddly bits...
To start off we need to remove the plastic shrouds on the sides of the seat (photo to follow) to do this is easy.
On the side with the switches start by getting a good even grip on the switch and pulling it away from the shroud it needs a fair old yank, and if using a tool may be easier, but i find unprotected tools could cause chips or tool marks in the plastic so preferred doing it by hand, eventually they should just pop off.
Behind the switches there should be a number of screws between the bare switches unscrew these and put them in the container, then follow the shroud to the rear of the seat you will find another deep screw unscrew this too, once unscrewed the shroud should pop off quite easily.
Moving onto the other side of the seat now (the side of the seatbelt lock) you will be able to see the little black screws just remember there is one near the rear of the seat as well, to remove this shroud though you will need to use the 14 socket and ratchet to unbolt the seat belt lock, be careful as there is a little wire coming out of here too and will need to be unplugged...At this point you should be able to pop off this shroud
There is a thin long shroud on the front of the seat help on with 2 small screws as well and found this useful if loosened but is clipped to the seat leather and chose to leave it clipped...
Once the shrouds are off/loosened start unplugging all the plugs from the motors, switches and sensors. Of all the mounting points for the wiring harness only 3 need to be unclipped, the yellow (airbag) plug mounted to the front of the seat the power plug also on the front of the seat and the seat belt plug, if careful you should be able to reuse them later...
Once all the plugs are unplugged and the 3 mounts have been loosened we can start unbolting the runners and the motors...
For me I chose to replace all the motors for the newer working ones (might as well) so i started with the easiest motor situated on the side of the seat next to the switch cluster, unscrew the 2 screws at the base of the shaft, but be careful the shaft can come out on other side so help it by pulling on the plastic tube surrounding the shaft and remember to bring along the little plastic cap, this motor works the backrest tilt function, you can at this point remove the switch cluster as well, there are 3 screws holding it onto the base of the seat, one of which id hidden behind the leather side of the seat this is where i used the long Phillips screwdriver
The next step is to move to the other side now again where the seat belt lock was we need to loosen the mounting bracket for the belt lock and it requires the loosening of 3 nuts and both sockets...
The nuts are situated in the following positions:
Starting with the nut at the top of the last photo, this is "hidden" behind a plastic clip you need to lift the plastic over the top of the nut and push back to unclip this from the rear end of the runner.
This nut requires the 14 socket to loosen
The 2 others require the 12 socket, the reason for loosening all 3 nuts is that the belt lock bracket blocks a bolt we need to get to as well as creates tension to a torque bar running across the runners, so the bracket has to go, unfortunately this is a bit of a faf but the bottom 2 nuts help release a bit of the tension on the bar allowing you to twist the bracket out and over the mounting bolts...
Once the bracket is out of the way, we can get to this bolt...
Once we can get to this bolt, the hard part is over, you will find 4 of these torqx bolts fastening similar "arms" to the seat base, 2 on the front of the seat and another on the other side of the seat at the rear, once these are loosened the runner sub assembly along with one of the motors should come free, if you are like me and want to replace all the motors you will want to continue on to the next step, other wise if its just the runners you were replacing you are pretty much done, all you need to do to fit the new runners is the reverse of what you have done so far...
The next step is nothing really it is really just the second last step to removing the last of the motors as well so to do that you will need to look for 2 size 12 bolts situated at the front of the seat and will require the extension for these and fasten the rest of the seat chassis to the seat base...
Once these have been removed the rest of the base should be able to pivot enough so you can get the stubby Phillips screwdriver in to undo the last motor, obviously to fit this motor will be the reverse but in the seat being put back in the car, once this is don then the rail sub assembly can be fitted over top, also in the reverse manner...
A quick note though the seat belt bracket a little more difficult to put back but be patient with the 2 smaller nuts loosened the bracket for the main shaft should pivot making it easier to put the belt lock bracket back on the bolts where it belongs be sure to make sure the Torsion bar is properly seated before tightening this section down, the last thing you want to happen is you finish up and the darn thing falls out of the seat... grab hold of it and check its seated right before continuing.
Another note : at the time of writing this how too i could not find all of the photos, I will try find the rest or take new ones but if something doesn't make sense please let me know...
Otherwise i hope this How to is useful as it is my first proper one and good luck!
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
13-07-2022, 06:42 AM #6Nice write up mate. Will be very useful to people!
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
As my paid membership has expired i am unfortunately not able to edit my original post so i decided i would add this amendment.
Here you can see the belt lock with sensor wire...
![[Image: IMAG0164.jpg]](http://s40.photobucket.com/user/SpectraZA/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0164.jpg.html)
The hidden screw holes near the rear of the plastic shrouds on the sides of the seat...
Firs the shroud on the side with the switch cluster:
![[Image: IMAG0165.jpg]](http://s40.photobucket.com/user/SpectraZA/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0165.jpg.html)
And then the one on the belt lock side:
![[Image: IMAG0166.jpg]](http://s40.photobucket.com/user/SpectraZA/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0166.jpg.html)
This is a closer look at the belt lock bracket:
![[Image: IMAG0167.jpg]](http://s40.photobucket.com/user/SpectraZA/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0167.jpg.html)
A close up look at the end cap that clips over top of one of the nuts of the belt lock bracket (geez thats a mouth full)...
![[Image: IMAG0168.jpg]](http://s40.photobucket.com/user/SpectraZA/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0168.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0169.jpg]](http://s40.photobucket.com/user/SpectraZA/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0169.jpg.html)
Finally, this is the runner sub assembly once its freed from the rest of the seat...
![[Image: IMAG0170.jpg]](http://s40.photobucket.com/user/SpectraZA/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0170.jpg.html)
In my case i have opted to keep the motors and shafts and runners for another motorised project... I think they should prove usefull... watch this space!
Amendments...
As my paid membership has expired i am unfortunately not able to edit my original post so i decided i would add this amendment.
Here you can see the belt lock with sensor wire...
The hidden screw holes near the rear of the plastic shrouds on the sides of the seat...
Firs the shroud on the side with the switch cluster:
And then the one on the belt lock side:
This is a closer look at the belt lock bracket:
A close up look at the end cap that clips over top of one of the nuts of the belt lock bracket (geez thats a mouth full)...
Finally, this is the runner sub assembly once its freed from the rest of the seat...
In my case i have opted to keep the motors and shafts and runners for another motorised project... I think they should prove usefull... watch this space!
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