1JZ GTE vvti wasted spark coils too 1G-FE sequential coils
1JZ GTE vvti wasted spark coils too 1G-FE sequential coils
First of all this is a well known issue with the standard wasted spark coils cracking, They start to crack down the back and their spark becomes weaker. I have been suggested to go and buy genuine Toyota coils as this will give the best result but the cost of them is very high and there's still the possibility that something else is causing them to crack.
I have been through 2 sets of older Toyota coils, a set of standard surefire coils which cracked and they replaced with the red up-rated surefire coils for free. These started to fail last week, I couldn't start the car and when it would eventually fire it sounded like it was running on 3. I pulled the coils and the sparks, the 3 sparks at the back of the engine were cracked badly up the porcelain (these sparks have done about 500 miles in 6 months) and 1 of the coils had a very fine crack in it. Having no choice I used the 3 coils and a brand new set of sparks, I ran the car and it was running fine again. I drove 60 miles on the motorway and the 3rd coil packed up, I then replaced it with a spare to get me home. The next day I tried to start the car and it sounded like it was running on 3, I tried all the coils i had and could not get it running.*
![[Image: img?i=jVAPwm.jpg]](http://imglnk.uk/img?i=jVAPwm.jpg)
After 120 miles the spark plugs where black with soot, the spark would jump up over the porcelain rather than across the proper gap. I tested all the coils and they have all died, all have cracks and have all given up.
This was my solution:
I found this website and decided to do the same*http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/i...owtopic=536717*As stated in the link you will need an aftermarket ECU to do this but maybe with some fancy wiring it might be able to be done with the standard ecu. I am running a ECU Master EMU and decided to go with the 1G FE coils as i have 8 of them laying around and they are £10-20 each second hand. This is a very cheap option but they don't exactly bolt straight in. They clear the cover and there is a lot of room around them but the bolt lug for the 1G FE engine will need to be cut off.
First of all i made a temporary loom up out of some spare wire just to see if they would actually run the engine correctly, the 6 individual coils are still wired in wasted spark configuration here.
![[Image: img?i=aGuCEF.jpg]](http://imglnk.uk/img?i=aGuCEF.jpg)
As you can see its running and straight away even with the dodgy wiring its a heck of a lot smoother than the wasted coils ever were. No "hiccups" or misfires, revving up is smoother where as before I was getting hesitation.
Now these coils have no support at the top and will flop around, my solution was to make a bracket like the one in the website link. I have a home made cnc machine which works but has some serious issues at the moment and isn't the best for aluminium but worked well enough for what i wanted - I used 10mm thick aluminium plate only because it was the only piece I had that was long enough (550mm)
![[Image: img?i=pOiQOf.jpg]](http://imglnk.uk/img?i=pOiQOf.jpg)
![[Image: img?i=kLkeeN.jpg]](http://imglnk.uk/img?i=kLkeeN.jpg)
![[Image: img?i=jceKtz.jpg]](http://imglnk.uk/img?i=jceKtz.jpg)
You cant see it in the picture but I used 4 aluminium tubes (around 35mm long) to space the bracket up from the head and then bolted them down with 4 60mm allen head bolts.*
I custom made my loom from scratch when first putting the engine in to the car to work with the EMU. I had to pretty much stripped it all back to add 3 wires for each injector, these will need a positive feed, a signal and an earth attached to each one. Sorry no more pictures of the wiring. Any questions just ask.
![[Image: img?i=qfqdpZ.jpg]](http://imglnk.uk/img?i=qfqdpZ.jpg)
All bolted down, I only used 3 of the aluminium spacers as I could not get the one in at the back as the hose presses it down too much in the middle - but the aluminium plate is stiff enough not to worry.
![[Image: img?i=TtdcNG.jpg]](http://imglnk.uk/img?i=TtdcNG.jpg)
Coils in - I drilled a 5mm hole and tapped each one next to each coil and used a 20mm m6 hex bolt to hold each coil in place by bolting down (gently) onto the plate, there is a rubber seal around each of the coils between the plate and coil head. Over tightening will crack the thin plastic flange on the coil - I couldn't come up with a better solution but even if the coils were loose they wont be going anywhere and get held down by the coil cover anyway.
![[Image: img?i=OjHodW.jpg]](http://imglnk.uk/img?i=OjHodW.jpg)
All wired in ready to be tested - the plugs on the coils come off of the old 1G FE loom. ~£40 for a complete loom from ebay. A lot of the plugs from the 1G FE is200 loom will fit the 1JZ like alternator and temp sensors etc
![[Image: img?i=pETfwG.jpg]](http://imglnk.uk/img?i=pETfwG.jpg)
I do intend to redo the complete loom at some point, i am not happy with the electrical tape and this sleeves but its easy enough to cut and modify like this as I have needed to do over the last year.
I set fully sequential on the ECU and a setting for "coils with amplifiers" set the dwell to around 2ms and then started her up. First time and every time she starts nicely and runs a hell of a lot smoother than ever before. The engine now sits on idle more like the old 1G FE engine did, with very little vibration. Acceleration is a lot smoother and drag on the engine after letting off the accelerator is less and smoother. No misfiring or hiccups like i used to get. The coils also feel a lot cooler after a run up to temperature - maybe because the coils are further from the head and have a little more air around them, and maybe the aluminium plate is acting as a heat sink. The problem i had was the coils at the back of the engine failed first as this gets the hottest, hopefully the heat is dissipated better with this plate.*
Overall I am very impressed and would recommend this change to anyone with problems, these coils are cheap to replace if they start to fail but seem to be running a lot smoother. Time will tell if i start to experience the same problems, but after the head ache with the old coils I feel a lot better about this setup - I have now got 550cc injectors and the car is booked back in to be re tuned in a couple of weeks, I will post up the results.
I hope this will help anyone with problems
I thought I would do a little write up on what I have been through with my 1jz wasted spark coils (sorry if this is in the wrong place)-
First of all this is a well known issue with the standard wasted spark coils cracking, They start to crack down the back and their spark becomes weaker. I have been suggested to go and buy genuine Toyota coils as this will give the best result but the cost of them is very high and there's still the possibility that something else is causing them to crack.
I have been through 2 sets of older Toyota coils, a set of standard surefire coils which cracked and they replaced with the red up-rated surefire coils for free. These started to fail last week, I couldn't start the car and when it would eventually fire it sounded like it was running on 3. I pulled the coils and the sparks, the 3 sparks at the back of the engine were cracked badly up the porcelain (these sparks have done about 500 miles in 6 months) and 1 of the coils had a very fine crack in it. Having no choice I used the 3 coils and a brand new set of sparks, I ran the car and it was running fine again. I drove 60 miles on the motorway and the 3rd coil packed up, I then replaced it with a spare to get me home. The next day I tried to start the car and it sounded like it was running on 3, I tried all the coils i had and could not get it running.*
After 120 miles the spark plugs where black with soot, the spark would jump up over the porcelain rather than across the proper gap. I tested all the coils and they have all died, all have cracks and have all given up.
This was my solution:
I found this website and decided to do the same*http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/i...owtopic=536717*As stated in the link you will need an aftermarket ECU to do this but maybe with some fancy wiring it might be able to be done with the standard ecu. I am running a ECU Master EMU and decided to go with the 1G FE coils as i have 8 of them laying around and they are £10-20 each second hand. This is a very cheap option but they don't exactly bolt straight in. They clear the cover and there is a lot of room around them but the bolt lug for the 1G FE engine will need to be cut off.
First of all i made a temporary loom up out of some spare wire just to see if they would actually run the engine correctly, the 6 individual coils are still wired in wasted spark configuration here.
As you can see its running and straight away even with the dodgy wiring its a heck of a lot smoother than the wasted coils ever were. No "hiccups" or misfires, revving up is smoother where as before I was getting hesitation.
Now these coils have no support at the top and will flop around, my solution was to make a bracket like the one in the website link. I have a home made cnc machine which works but has some serious issues at the moment and isn't the best for aluminium but worked well enough for what i wanted - I used 10mm thick aluminium plate only because it was the only piece I had that was long enough (550mm)
You cant see it in the picture but I used 4 aluminium tubes (around 35mm long) to space the bracket up from the head and then bolted them down with 4 60mm allen head bolts.*
I custom made my loom from scratch when first putting the engine in to the car to work with the EMU. I had to pretty much stripped it all back to add 3 wires for each injector, these will need a positive feed, a signal and an earth attached to each one. Sorry no more pictures of the wiring. Any questions just ask.
All bolted down, I only used 3 of the aluminium spacers as I could not get the one in at the back as the hose presses it down too much in the middle - but the aluminium plate is stiff enough not to worry.
Coils in - I drilled a 5mm hole and tapped each one next to each coil and used a 20mm m6 hex bolt to hold each coil in place by bolting down (gently) onto the plate, there is a rubber seal around each of the coils between the plate and coil head. Over tightening will crack the thin plastic flange on the coil - I couldn't come up with a better solution but even if the coils were loose they wont be going anywhere and get held down by the coil cover anyway.
All wired in ready to be tested - the plugs on the coils come off of the old 1G FE loom. ~£40 for a complete loom from ebay. A lot of the plugs from the 1G FE is200 loom will fit the 1JZ like alternator and temp sensors etc
I do intend to redo the complete loom at some point, i am not happy with the electrical tape and this sleeves but its easy enough to cut and modify like this as I have needed to do over the last year.
I set fully sequential on the ECU and a setting for "coils with amplifiers" set the dwell to around 2ms and then started her up. First time and every time she starts nicely and runs a hell of a lot smoother than ever before. The engine now sits on idle more like the old 1G FE engine did, with very little vibration. Acceleration is a lot smoother and drag on the engine after letting off the accelerator is less and smoother. No misfiring or hiccups like i used to get. The coils also feel a lot cooler after a run up to temperature - maybe because the coils are further from the head and have a little more air around them, and maybe the aluminium plate is acting as a heat sink. The problem i had was the coils at the back of the engine failed first as this gets the hottest, hopefully the heat is dissipated better with this plate.*
Overall I am very impressed and would recommend this change to anyone with problems, these coils are cheap to replace if they start to fail but seem to be running a lot smoother. Time will tell if i start to experience the same problems, but after the head ache with the old coils I feel a lot better about this setup - I have now got 550cc injectors and the car is booked back in to be re tuned in a couple of weeks, I will post up the results.
I hope this will help anyone with problems
a mate of mine had the same issue with his on a skyline. So they mounted them on top of the cam cover and ran short HT leads to each from the plugs.
![[Image: LexuS-Copy.jpg]](http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h204/Sparkystav/LexuS-Copy.jpg)
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
18-02-2024, 02:07 AM #2looks good mate, should get better airflow to them to keep them cool.
a mate of mine had the same issue with his on a skyline. So they mounted them on top of the cam cover and ran short HT leads to each from the plugs.
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
![[Image: 28a377f8b2841df3e34d1e774b098358.jpg]](https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170331/28a377f8b2841df3e34d1e774b098358.jpg)
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Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
18-02-2024, 10:04 AM #4Pics are perfect. Yeah he is definitely after performance though. It's 1200+ bhp
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Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
19-02-2024, 10:18 AM #6Yes mate there's no expense spared with that thing!
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Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
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