Fuel pump help!!!

Rabster

23-06-2017, 12:13 PM #11

the one that is in mine is a

Syntec - ITP216

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Fozzy

23-06-2017, 12:19 PM #12

Seems i was right, makes a change

2009 JAE Car Pull Runner Up
2010 JAE Car Pull Failure

My Garage

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LEX11S

24-06-2017, 04:02 AM #13

Rab:- still running the standard fuel pump in mine!

Stav:- thankyou nice one will start looking

Things done :- SPC turbo kit (custom), Blueflame cat back with custom tip, B&M shortshift, grooved discs all round, Mintex pads all round, OEM wheels in white,Denso ik22s, Calipers painted black,04 spec rear lights, Tein basic coilovers, Helix organic clutch, Fan washer jets, late spec headlights (dark), Carbon bonnet, Hotchkis anti roll bars, Front arm rest, Top box from late spec.

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jay_russell

24-06-2017, 10:08 AM #14

i got mine from ebay motors usa. cost about 120 dollars i think

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?Make=Toyota&...86.c0.m282

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LEX11S

28-06-2017, 04:40 AM #15

Thankyou jay ordered one today from srb power just need injectors and fuel reg

Things done :- SPC turbo kit (custom), Blueflame cat back with custom tip, B&M shortshift, grooved discs all round, Mintex pads all round, OEM wheels in white,Denso ik22s, Calipers painted black,04 spec rear lights, Tein basic coilovers, Helix organic clutch, Fan washer jets, late spec headlights (dark), Carbon bonnet, Hotchkis anti roll bars, Front arm rest, Top box from late spec.

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Rabster

28-06-2017, 05:17 AM #16

what are you up2 ......

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jay_russell

28-06-2017, 05:28 AM #17

i have all the info on fixing a fuel regulator and return fuel line. very importent stuff you need to know about the fuel tank. it's in 2 halves and if not done right you will only be using 1 half of the tanks. so before you start get in touch and i can fill you in

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Sparkystav

28-06-2017, 07:55 AM #18

Can you put it all in a word doc mate? then we could download it?

Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.

OutlawJapClub Admin Team

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jay_russell

28-06-2017, 09:33 AM #19

DIY walbro 255 fuel pump install with pics (alot)
well i just wanna say thanks to wingzero's diy thread, when i first saw it though it was a tad bit vague and i was thinking someone whos never pulled a fuel pump out before probaly wouldnt find it as informative, so last night after pulling mine out i made a step by step process on how.

*warning*
it is recommended to run your car dry of gas before doing this diy. if you do not wish to do so then you run the risk of getting gasoline on your car, or other surfaces, which may lead to unexpected combustion. preform this diy at your own risk

first remove your backseats, pretty much good trick here is put your hands were you feel the metal clips (circled in red) and from there give a good tug and you will hear an audible pop

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[Image: 1-2.jpg]

next step is to remove the lid holding above the fuel pump, its located behind drivers side and has 3x bolts there weird plastic screws, 10 or 12 mm
[Image: 4-1.jpg]

then proceed to take out the 8 screws on the metal peice holding the pump in place, after those go you should be able to lift the pump up but its stuck about an inch but because the fuel cable is still attached. to detach the fuel cable grab the yellowish green clip and put it all the way out.
[Image: 5-1.jpg]

once that clip is out "slowly" with twisty motion is best remove the cable, should pop right out and you may get some gasoline on you, i got few drips.
[Image: 6-1.jpg]

now move the fuel line out the way and slowly pull up, you will meet 2 points of resistance. 1. is the fuel level indicator 2. is a rubber hose clamped onto the pump, you cant see it in this picture but you will know when you see it. clamp is kinda tough, i used some pliers then shimmy'd it down. for the fuel level indicator once you get the hose off angle it so that the metal comes out
[Image: 7-1.jpg]

i chose to d/c the cable once i pulled it out, but you can at anytime really "its tricky though you gotta use alot of force to get that clip down"
[Image: 8-1.jpg]

[Image: 9-1.jpg]

heres a pic of the hose once i taken it out, you cant miss it though
[Image: 10-1.jpg]

once everything is d/c'd go head and pull it out
[Image: 11-1.jpg]

alrite here comes the tricky part. the fuel pump housing is a *****. there are 4 clips holding the top lid as pointed out by the red arrows. you will probaly have to use a screwdriver and its gunnna require a bit of force but remeber its still plastic so dont go hulk on that thing. the bottom part pointed by the blue arrrows were easy, might have the move that lil hose thing but cake deal.
[Image: 12.jpg]

once the top's off d/c the connector on top and with a lil twisty motion pull the stock pump out, take a lil bit of force and you might get gas on ya. oncce you pull it out you will find a spacer, a o ring and a cap on the tip, you can see my cap in this pic, its tan. save those as you will be re using them on the walbro
[Image: 13.jpg]

at the bottom of your stock fuel pump youll see a lil metal ring thing with 3 prongs angled but pointing towards you. thats the fuel filter retaining clip, in my pic i already moved it to the walbro but you will probaly need a screwdriver to unclip it
[Image: 15.jpg]

[Image: 16.jpg]

*warning*
be very careful during the next step, if you plan on soldering, which you should, that fuel pump is going to have deposits of gasoline, you can throughly clean there but there will be spots were you cant see, and a solderer is very hot, take caution and if you can solder the connections in a different area of the house, maybe backyard, keep a bottle of water handy w/ wet cloth.

now here comes the dangerous part, soldering. you shouldve purchased the walbro with the installation kit, "fuel filter plus pig tails" your going to need to clip the connector from the pump housing group and solder it on with the one provided in the kit. its red = pos black = neg, i drew 2 lines just if you were confused, but just rember black on black. now i forgot to in this pic but its reccomended that you "stagger" the connections meaning clip them at 2 different points, just incase if the rubber tube or e tape come undone they dont touch each other and spark, which is bad.
[Image: 17.jpg]

and after all that, you may put it back together and back step from there. enjoy!
[Image: 18.jpg]
[Image: 19.jpg]

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jay_russell

28-06-2017, 09:33 AM #20

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-22...toview=sku
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-23...toview=sku
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13...toview=sku
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-15...oview=skul
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-15...toview=sku
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-15...toview=sku
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-98...toview=sku
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-22...toview=sku
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-22...toview=sku
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GTR-65...toview=sku
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-22...toview=sku
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-22...toview=sku

Here's what you need to do to the fuel pump assembly.

1. Drill a hole in the plastic fuel pump assembly.
2. Get a bulk head fitting and install the fitting on that new hole.
3. Install the return line from the FPR to the end of the fitting that's exposed.
4. The other end of the fitting that will be in the tank needs to connect to the white ventricle.
5. Cut the line that's connected between the stock FPR and white ventricle.
6. Either pinch the nipple that is now exposed on the stock FPR closed and weld it shut or get 1/4" fuel line, 1/4" bolt that has no threads on the shoulder. Cut off the threated area of the bolt, insert the bolt in the 1/4" line and put a hose clamp on it. Put the other end of the rubber line on the stock FPR.
6. Run rubber line from the bulkhead fitting to the end of the white ventricle that the stock FPR was connected to.

1. Connects to a rubber line that's in the tank already, leave that alone.
[Image: 7-1.jpg]
2. Connects to nothing, leave that alone.

3. Snip the black line, close off the end of the stock FPR. The return line should come through the hole near the Walbro pig tail then connect to where the stock FPR was connected to.
[Image: 8-1.jpg]

[Image: 2-1.jpg]
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