Mazda MX5 MK1 Buying Guide
Mazda MX5 MK1 Buying Guide
As with All cars First check that the person selling the car is allowed to sell it and as all the cars documents such as Log book and Mot papers.
It would be nice to see a service history with the car as well.
It is always worth phoning a dealer to check that they have carried out services if they have stamped the book.
Also worth Running a HPI on the car to check if the car has out standing Finance or been damaged at some point.
Check Log book with chassis numbers, the numbers can be checked in two place on the mx5 first look at the bulkhend of the engine and also where the break master cylinder is there is a Plaque, check that these numbers tie up the same.
On this plates your also find the car colour code.
Check panel alignments' are even through out the car the only ones that are some times out are the ones around the head lights.
Check lower sills the place on the sills that go normally first are the sill behind the rear wheels.
Rust can also be found on the A piller more so if the windscreen has been replaced at some point.
Many version of mx5 can be found on our roads from the UK model through American and Japanese version.
The Japanese version's are supplied with a auction sheet and are normally graded from one to five, five being the best grade.
If you are looking for a Japanese version I would suggest a grade four car is as good as you get…
Mechanically listen when the car starts for excessive tappet noise also check for blue smoke from the exhaust.
Continue with Oil and water checks the oil should not have a mayonnaise look under the filler cap.
Water should not have any oil found in it.
Clutch travel should find its biting point around mid way if the biting point is much lower then you may need a new clutch.
Older version can be that much harder to slot into 1 & 2 gear.
The radiator can go on the top plastic edge so look around the filler cap area for cracks in the plastic.
While inside the car check that the air con blows out nice cold air.
Check the windows electric most models have electric windows there are two versions a one touch system along with a push pull system.
Both head lights should pop up together, if one quicker than the other then the linkage could be worn.
Check the roof for splits or damage, also check for water marks inside the car as this could show a leaking roof.
The hard tops and the hood covers were extras on this cars and it would be nice to find these with your car.
These cars have negative camber this normally causes un even tyre wear and can cause the car to shudder around 60 mph range.
This can be sorted by a visit to the clubs Sponsors Wheels in Motion that can put this right.
For the best wheels sizes it is recommend that you use 14" and 15" wheels.
Finally if you are unsure on your purchase then why not ask a professional body like the AA or RAC to run over your purchase.
The club is not responsible for your purchase and this is just a helpful guide.
Mazda MX5 MK1 Buying Guide
As with All cars First check that the person selling the car is allowed to sell it and as all the cars documents such as Log book and Mot papers.
It would be nice to see a service history with the car as well.
It is always worth phoning a dealer to check that they have carried out services if they have stamped the book.
Also worth Running a HPI on the car to check if the car has out standing Finance or been damaged at some point.
Check Log book with chassis numbers, the numbers can be checked in two place on the mx5 first look at the bulkhend of the engine and also where the break master cylinder is there is a Plaque, check that these numbers tie up the same.
On this plates your also find the car colour code.
Check panel alignments' are even through out the car the only ones that are some times out are the ones around the head lights.
Check lower sills the place on the sills that go normally first are the sill behind the rear wheels.
Rust can also be found on the A piller more so if the windscreen has been replaced at some point.
Many version of mx5 can be found on our roads from the UK model through American and Japanese version.
The Japanese version's are supplied with a auction sheet and are normally graded from one to five, five being the best grade.
If you are looking for a Japanese version I would suggest a grade four car is as good as you get…
Mechanically listen when the car starts for excessive tappet noise also check for blue smoke from the exhaust.
Continue with Oil and water checks the oil should not have a mayonnaise look under the filler cap.
Water should not have any oil found in it.
Clutch travel should find its biting point around mid way if the biting point is much lower then you may need a new clutch.
Older version can be that much harder to slot into 1 & 2 gear.
The radiator can go on the top plastic edge so look around the filler cap area for cracks in the plastic.
While inside the car check that the air con blows out nice cold air.
Check the windows electric most models have electric windows there are two versions a one touch system along with a push pull system.
Both head lights should pop up together, if one quicker than the other then the linkage could be worn.
Check the roof for splits or damage, also check for water marks inside the car as this could show a leaking roof.
The hard tops and the hood covers were extras on this cars and it would be nice to find these with your car.
These cars have negative camber this normally causes un even tyre wear and can cause the car to shudder around 60 mph range.
This can be sorted by a visit to the clubs Sponsors Wheels in Motion that can put this right.
For the best wheels sizes it is recommend that you use 14" and 15" wheels.
Finally if you are unsure on your purchase then why not ask a professional body like the AA or RAC to run over your purchase.
The club is not responsible for your purchase and this is just a helpful guide.
Excessive tappet noise should not be seen as a deal breaker, quite common for the MK1s to suffer from this, a flush and quality oil can cure this "sometimes".
On the sill rust, do not think this is a cheap fix, to get a decent quality job done on the sills and lower arch will cost you a fair wedge of cash, you can pick up a mk1 for a grand but it can cost you more than that to get the rust fixed
I've owned 3 of them now and still my fav car to date
Toyota Altezza Z Edition.
![[Image: sig.jpg]](http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/todd69/sig.jpg)
Good tip on the windows, seen them go a lot on the MK1s.
Excessive tappet noise should not be seen as a deal breaker, quite common for the MK1s to suffer from this, a flush and quality oil can cure this "sometimes".
On the sill rust, do not think this is a cheap fix, to get a decent quality job done on the sills and lower arch will cost you a fair wedge of cash, you can pick up a mk1 for a grand but it can cost you more than that to get the rust fixed
I've owned 3 of them now and still my fav car to date
Toyota Altezza Z Edition.
Tappet noise will clear once you've changed the oil a few times and got the engine good and hot around backroads etc - not a dealbreaker.
Early 1.6s are good. 1.8s are good. Don't buy a later 1.6 though - they de-rated them from 115 bhp down to 90 bhp so that they wouldn't compete with the 1.8s! (avoid 1994-1997 1.6 mk1s, or at least budget for swapping the engine out)
15x6 or 15x7 with 195/50R15 is the wheel/tyre size to go for - there's less (decent) tyre choice in 14" these days.
Its all about rust rust rust on these - go for the least rusty shell that you can find. Panel gaps are rubbish even when new, wouldn't worry *too* much about them. Worry more about wheels that have been spanked against kerbs, particularly the rears.
Tappet noise will clear once you've changed the oil a few times and got the engine good and hot around backroads etc - not a dealbreaker.
Early 1.6s are good. 1.8s are good. Don't buy a later 1.6 though - they de-rated them from 115 bhp down to 90 bhp so that they wouldn't compete with the 1.8s! (avoid 1994-1997 1.6 mk1s, or at least budget for swapping the engine out)
15x6 or 15x7 with 195/50R15 is the wheel/tyre size to go for - there's less (decent) tyre choice in 14" these days.
speedview Its all about rust rust rust on these
Generally only on the sills... big problem there as they always eventually go.
The rest of the cars usually stay reasonably rust free if well undersealed
speedfreek
05-12-2018, 01:06 PM #6speedview Its all about rust rust rust on these
Generally only on the sills... big problem there as they always eventually go.
The rest of the cars usually stay reasonably rust free if well undersealed
[SIZE=3]'93 Mazda Eunos Roadster Turbo[/SIZE]
(Current project)
![[Image: img_1505.jpg]](http://www.cosic.org.uk/MarkoStuff/5/Rusty5/images/img_1505.jpg)
(this one had never been sprayed/welded and looked vaguely presentable from a distance)
![[Image: img_1128.jpg]](http://www.cosic.org.uk/MarkoStuff/5/Rusty5/images/img_1128.jpg)
![[Image: img_1121.jpg]](http://www.cosic.org.uk/MarkoStuff/5/Rusty5/images/img_1121.jpg)
(bought for parts, don't worry!)
They're ALL rotten too - even if they look perfect on the outside.
![[Image: img_1601.jpg]](http://www.cosic.org.uk/MarkoStuff/5/MX5%2010yr%20100k%20Refurb/images/img_1601.jpg)
![[Image: img_1939.jpg]](http://www.cosic.org.uk/MarkoStuff/5/MX5%2010yr%20100k%20Refurb/images/img_1939.jpg)
On the Mk2/2.5 you've got to add the front chassis legs (extra crash protection that they welded on traps water and the front chassis legs rot out followed by your ARB falling off:
Sills at the rear; rear arches; sills at the front where leaves collect - for the Mk1. Look in the areas that are brown/missing on this one:
(this one had never been sprayed/welded and looked vaguely presentable from a distance)
(bought for parts, don't worry!)
They're ALL rotten too - even if they look perfect on the outside.
On the Mk2/2.5 you've got to add the front chassis legs (extra crash protection that they welded on traps water and the front chassis legs rot out followed by your ARB falling off:
speedfreek
05-12-2018, 01:55 PM #8I know that car I'm sure of it.... I am sure it used to belong to a chap called Will Babbington... did it have a 1.8 lump dropped into it with a Flyin Miata conversion kit?
[SIZE=3]'93 Mazda Eunos Roadster Turbo[/SIZE]
(Current project)
You a nutzer too then?
speedfreek
05-12-2018, 03:05 PM #10I thought as much. I helped install his door cups and retrim his dash pads about 6 or 7 years ago :laugh:
You a nutzer too then?
[SIZE=3]'93 Mazda Eunos Roadster Turbo[/SIZE]
(Current project)
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