My Indecisive 4.0 V8 1UZ-FE Project

JapCarForum Cars, Cars, Cars! Project Cars My Indecisive 4.0 V8 1UZ-FE Project

Pages (51): Previous 1 … 34 35 36 37 38 … 51 Next

toxo
Posting Freak

4,843

21-01-2020, 09:22 AM

#351

Had another good day on the car today.

Having finished painting the ARB/radiator brackets (here they are with the new lower rubbers for the radiator):

[Image: IMG_20130303_111552.jpg]

I got them back on the car. You can see in the above photo the right hand side hole is slotted. The rubbers don't fit in the slightest but I guess that won't matter once there's a radiator in them.

I tried to get some pictures to show how the radiator sits. As well as the 2 lower mounts on the ARB brackets there are 2 upper rubber mounts too with threaded bar in them. Here's a shot from the top of the windscreen:

[Image: photo.jpg]

And here's one from the passenger side headlight:

[Image: photo.jpg]

As you can see the radiator sits at a crazy angle, mounted quite low. As long as the crank pulley clears it then that's fine Smile

Then I got started on the end plate / rear main seal. This wouldn't come off with the engine stand in place so I had to faff about getting it back onto the hoist first. Here's a photo of the difference between the older Soarer end plate and the newer VVTi one - VVTi on top:

[Image: IMG_20130303_134526.jpg]

As you can see they added an enormous lip for some reason. Once that was cleaned up and I fitted the new seal in it, I glued it up and bolted it back on.

[Image: IMG_20130303_143555.jpg]

Then I stuck the engine back on the stand and got underneath it to fit the oil pickup from the Soarer:

[Image: IMG_20130303_143620.jpg]

Still all nicely lubricated under there, despite it not having had a sump on it for a very long time!

After that was done I did the fuel filter on the RX7. It's a good time to do it as it is in a pretty stupid place...

[Image: IMG_20130303_153559.jpg]

Yes, those are the rear driveshafts in the shot. You have to drop the diff to do the filter.

Edited 03-03-2013, 07:44 PM by toxo.

toxo

21-01-2020, 09:22 AM #351

Had another good day on the car today.

Having finished painting the ARB/radiator brackets (here they are with the new lower rubbers for the radiator):

[Image: IMG_20130303_111552.jpg]

I got them back on the car. You can see in the above photo the right hand side hole is slotted. The rubbers don't fit in the slightest but I guess that won't matter once there's a radiator in them.

I tried to get some pictures to show how the radiator sits. As well as the 2 lower mounts on the ARB brackets there are 2 upper rubber mounts too with threaded bar in them. Here's a shot from the top of the windscreen:

[Image: photo.jpg]

And here's one from the passenger side headlight:

As you can see the radiator sits at a crazy angle, mounted quite low. As long as the crank pulley clears it then that's fine Smile

Then I got started on the end plate / rear main seal. This wouldn't come off with the engine stand in place so I had to faff about getting it back onto the hoist first. Here's a photo of the difference between the older Soarer end plate and the newer VVTi one - VVTi on top:

[Image: IMG_20130303_134526.jpg]

As you can see they added an enormous lip for some reason. Once that was cleaned up and I fitted the new seal in it, I glued it up and bolted it back on.

[Image: IMG_20130303_143555.jpg]

Then I stuck the engine back on the stand and got underneath it to fit the oil pickup from the Soarer:

[Image: IMG_20130303_143620.jpg]

Still all nicely lubricated under there, despite it not having had a sump on it for a very long time!

After that was done I did the fuel filter on the RX7. It's a good time to do it as it is in a pretty stupid place...

[Image: IMG_20130303_153559.jpg]

Yes, those are the rear driveshafts in the shot. You have to drop the diff to do the filter.

Sparkystav
Administrator

14,683

21-01-2020, 11:15 AM

#352

lol what an odd place, i cant talk though cause my pump, filter,and swirl pot will be in a similar place

Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.

OutlawJapClub Admin Team

Sparkystav

21-01-2020, 11:15 AM #352

lol what an odd place, i cant talk though cause my pump, filter,and swirl pot will be in a similar place

Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.

OutlawJapClub Admin Team

toxo
Posting Freak

4,843

21-01-2020, 11:31 AM

#353

The carbon canister is there too but that makes slightly more sense I suppose... Anyway it's done now!

toxo

21-01-2020, 11:31 AM #353

The carbon canister is there too but that makes slightly more sense I suppose... Anyway it's done now!

Sparkystav
Administrator

14,683

21-01-2020, 12:03 PM

#354

ay thats what my swirl pot is replacing!

Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.

OutlawJapClub Admin Team

Sparkystav

21-01-2020, 12:03 PM #354

ay thats what my swirl pot is replacing!

Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.

OutlawJapClub Admin Team

toxo
Posting Freak

4,843

22-01-2020, 03:41 AM

#355

toxo After that was done I did the fuel filter on the RX7. It's a good time to do it as it is in a pretty stupid place...

Yes, those are the rear driveshafts in the shot. You have to drop the diff to do the filter.

Forgot to say, while I was under there I noticed holes in the boot floor, you can see them round the filter. I guess this where the previous owner had mounted the battery, but none of the wiring is there any more and I have other ideas for where it should go (lower centre of gravity, not wasting the already limited boot space etc) so they won't be reused. Bit of a shame but never mind. Also, that is how clean it is underneath everywhere, that's not unique to the area around the diff Smile

Edited 04-03-2013, 01:15 PM by toxo.

toxo

22-01-2020, 03:41 AM #355

toxo After that was done I did the fuel filter on the RX7. It's a good time to do it as it is in a pretty stupid place...

Yes, those are the rear driveshafts in the shot. You have to drop the diff to do the filter.

toxo
Posting Freak

4,843

05-02-2020, 03:36 AM

#356

Obviously the length of the propshaft is fixed, so if I put the diff with the shorter yoke on, it won't stick into the gearbox far enough.

This is the rear gearbox mount (the only mounting point which is really fixed, I can't do much about it).

[Image: IMG_20120914_191316.jpg]

What you can't see in that photo is that the holes that go from the rubber isolator mount to the gearbox are offset. Like this:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo...cc=1278503

So I could rotate it 180 degrees and that might take up the difference in the diff yokes, resulting in the gearbox being further back. This would make the shifter position line up better and result in the engine being more toward the middle of the car for better weight balance (so it's only 20-30mm but every little helps).

Edit: There are 3 bolt holes on the gearbox for the mount too, but I'm already using the front 2 so I don't think that helps me. I could bolt it on with 1 bolt either side but I don't like the sound of that.

Edited 18-03-2013, 03:31 PM by toxo.

toxo

05-02-2020, 03:36 AM #356

I have been thinking about how things all line up and I have decided not to swap the yokes over on the diffs just yet.

These are the diffs. You can see the yoke that the propshaft bolts to sticks further out on one of them, by maybe 20mm.

[Image: IMG_20130127_143300.jpg]

Obviously the length of the propshaft is fixed, so if I put the diff with the shorter yoke on, it won't stick into the gearbox far enough.

This is the rear gearbox mount (the only mounting point which is really fixed, I can't do much about it).

[Image: IMG_20120914_191316.jpg]

What you can't see in that photo is that the holes that go from the rubber isolator mount to the gearbox are offset. Like this:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo...cc=1278503

So I could rotate it 180 degrees and that might take up the difference in the diff yokes, resulting in the gearbox being further back. This would make the shifter position line up better and result in the engine being more toward the middle of the car for better weight balance (so it's only 20-30mm but every little helps).

Edit: There are 3 bolt holes on the gearbox for the mount too, but I'm already using the front 2 so I don't think that helps me. I could bolt it on with 1 bolt either side but I don't like the sound of that.

toxo
Posting Freak

4,843

09-02-2020, 12:47 AM

#357

I'm going to put an aftermarket MX5 battery in one, and if I can't fit the ECU and all the associated fuses and relays behind the dashboard, it will all go in the other one.

Tuesday night I stripped the rear seats out, so inside the car now looks like this.

[Image: IMG_20130321_182801.jpg]

I also hooked the car up to a 12v supply to start messing around with the electrics, seeing what works and what doesn't, etc. Red wire in the photo is for the rear fog light (which isn't there). In that photo I've taken out the rear speakers as well as the rear seatbelts from the 1/4 - they were knackered anyway and probably won't be making a comeback. I will have to cut the carpet to accommodate the rear bins as both the boot carpet and cabin carpet are different on cars that had them.

Then I started messing around with drivetrain stuff as per my previous post.

First thing I did was swap this dirt shield over from the remains of the chaser prop onto the tech2 aluminium one:

[Image: IMG_20130321_185859.jpg]

It was a bit of a faff as it's pressed on and I didn't have anything big enough to fit around the bit that goes in the gearbox, but I made a contraption out of the 1UZ fan pulley (it's like the water pump pulley on the 1G) and some g-clamps. This will hopefully stop **** from getting in my gearbox. I don't know why they don't supply one on the prop as standard, it even has the wider section at the base that it fits to. Maybe it's something Toyota added on the Chaser that the Supra didn't have?

Then I temporarily fitted the auto diff to the rear subframe, no pics for this one. It's about 30kg and I don't have a transmission jack so I was concentrating not dropping it on my face rather than taking photos :lol:

I got the gearbox off the rear mount, supported on 2 trolley jacks, and swapped the rubber mount round.

Before:
[Image: IMG_20130321_194344.jpg]

After:

Doesn't look like much but the bracket has moved 15mm forwards to take up the slack in the prop. If you can't see it look at where the rear of the bracket is compared to the bolt holes in the box.

I can't move the mount any further forward on the gearbox, it contacts the larger part if it's 1 hole forward, so there's no chance of welding a tab on the end and getting the box even further back or anything like that. So if I want any more movement towards the back of the car it will have to be done at the plate that mounts the gearbox mount to the car, rather than where the mount attaches to the gearbox.

After that I discovered that the companion flange (the bit the prop bolts to) on the auto diff has a different PCD to the manual one, so the prop won't bolt to it. I will have to fit the companion flange from the manual diff, which will in turn move the prop and gearbox forwards... unless I can find an auto prop and nick the end off it.

Don't know which to do until I get back under the car and measure things but I was tired and ****** off by that stage so I went home!

Edited 22-03-2013, 10:25 AM by toxo.

toxo

09-02-2020, 12:47 AM #357

Some photos from the other night...

Terrible photo of rear bins, but you get the idea. This lot replaces the rear seats. I don't have the centre panel but that's not the end of the world as I wasn't going to use it long-term anyway...

[Image: IMG_20130319_180449.jpg]

I'm going to put an aftermarket MX5 battery in one, and if I can't fit the ECU and all the associated fuses and relays behind the dashboard, it will all go in the other one.

Tuesday night I stripped the rear seats out, so inside the car now looks like this.

[Image: IMG_20130321_182801.jpg]

I also hooked the car up to a 12v supply to start messing around with the electrics, seeing what works and what doesn't, etc. Red wire in the photo is for the rear fog light (which isn't there). In that photo I've taken out the rear speakers as well as the rear seatbelts from the 1/4 - they were knackered anyway and probably won't be making a comeback. I will have to cut the carpet to accommodate the rear bins as both the boot carpet and cabin carpet are different on cars that had them.

Then I started messing around with drivetrain stuff as per my previous post.

First thing I did was swap this dirt shield over from the remains of the chaser prop onto the tech2 aluminium one:

[Image: IMG_20130321_185859.jpg]

It was a bit of a faff as it's pressed on and I didn't have anything big enough to fit around the bit that goes in the gearbox, but I made a contraption out of the 1UZ fan pulley (it's like the water pump pulley on the 1G) and some g-clamps. This will hopefully stop **** from getting in my gearbox. I don't know why they don't supply one on the prop as standard, it even has the wider section at the base that it fits to. Maybe it's something Toyota added on the Chaser that the Supra didn't have?

Then I temporarily fitted the auto diff to the rear subframe, no pics for this one. It's about 30kg and I don't have a transmission jack so I was concentrating not dropping it on my face rather than taking photos :lol:

I got the gearbox off the rear mount, supported on 2 trolley jacks, and swapped the rubber mount round.

Before:
[Image: IMG_20130321_194344.jpg]

After:

[Image: IMG_20130321_200604.jpg]

Doesn't look like much but the bracket has moved 15mm forwards to take up the slack in the prop. If you can't see it look at where the rear of the bracket is compared to the bolt holes in the box.

I can't move the mount any further forward on the gearbox, it contacts the larger part if it's 1 hole forward, so there's no chance of welding a tab on the end and getting the box even further back or anything like that. So if I want any more movement towards the back of the car it will have to be done at the plate that mounts the gearbox mount to the car, rather than where the mount attaches to the gearbox.

After that I discovered that the companion flange (the bit the prop bolts to) on the auto diff has a different PCD to the manual one, so the prop won't bolt to it. I will have to fit the companion flange from the manual diff, which will in turn move the prop and gearbox forwards... unless I can find an auto prop and nick the end off it.

Don't know which to do until I get back under the car and measure things but I was tired and ****** off by that stage so I went home!

toxo
Posting Freak

4,843

15-02-2020, 05:48 AM

#358

The one I've bought is 13407-50030
This is used on the V8 Soarer, SC430, Crown, GS430, and the Celsior in Japan.
[Image: CP01.jpg]

There's obviously a visual difference, in that the Lexus part has a solid centre and the Toyota part has 4 spokes between the centre and the rubber damper part. All the important parts are still in the same places and they are the same size, the Toyota one weighs slightly less and less rotational weight is good! If for some reason it's no good I can send it back but I'll then have to pay full price for a Lexus one (at £50 extra!).

Before spending out on a stock part, I researched Ross Dampers in Australia, ATI/Titan in the states, etc. The UZ is not a well catered for engine, so these would have been bespoke orders. I was looking at £500 without shipping, which would have been expensive as they are heavy, especially from Australia! So it's staying stock.

Edited 28-03-2013, 03:29 PM by toxo.

toxo

15-02-2020, 05:48 AM #358

Bought a new crank pulley/damper today, having snapped the edge off mine. It's a bit different to the one I've got as mine is a Lexus-only part and I only get trade discount on Toyota parts.

Stock LS400 part is 13407-50040
This is common to SC430, all LS400s, GS430 in Europe.
[Image: 16478908_1.jpg]

The one I've bought is 13407-50030
This is used on the V8 Soarer, SC430, Crown, GS430, and the Celsior in Japan.
[Image: CP01.jpg]

There's obviously a visual difference, in that the Lexus part has a solid centre and the Toyota part has 4 spokes between the centre and the rubber damper part. All the important parts are still in the same places and they are the same size, the Toyota one weighs slightly less and less rotational weight is good! If for some reason it's no good I can send it back but I'll then have to pay full price for a Lexus one (at £50 extra!).

Before spending out on a stock part, I researched Ross Dampers in Australia, ATI/Titan in the states, etc. The UZ is not a well catered for engine, so these would have been bespoke orders. I was looking at £500 without shipping, which would have been expensive as they are heavy, especially from Australia! So it's staying stock.

mattlaw
Senior Member

572

15-02-2020, 08:44 AM

#359

Should just use my discount lol

mattlaw

15-02-2020, 08:44 AM #359

Should just use my discount lol

toxo
Posting Freak

4,843

15-02-2020, 08:50 AM

#360

mattlaw Should just use my discount lol

Won't be far off the same and this way I save on postage Wink

My discount is odd. I got 12% off that. I get 50% off brakes? Most things are25% off but it depends what product line they come from or something. So I never know what my discount is going to be until I actually order a part.

Edit: I wrote that thinking you work for Toyota not Lexus... If I want to buy Lexus bits I get the Toyota parts guy to use their established trade discount from the local Lexus dealership which is really backwards. It's still cheaper than retail but not as cheap as Toyota parts!

Edited 28-03-2013, 06:26 PM by toxo.