Boot build
Boot build
Started by masking off the N/S of the boot. I used a double layer of 50mm masking tape and a double layer of GRP resistant tape to act as an "easy" release for the mould.
Then after double checking there were no gaps I applied 2 layers of Glass-fibre, and waited for it to set, for 2 hours. I left it 3 hours just to be safe and then started to ease the mould away from the interior, this was a mission but with a bit of bruit force and a long flexible plastic spatula it came out in one piece!!
Next was to test the volume of the mould - 1 CuFt for my 12" Diamond Sub, I did this with water and marked the mould where necessary to obtain the desired volume - leaving a bit over to allow for the other layers of GF soon to be put in.
2 more layers of glass-fibre on the inside-left to dry and then another 2 layers to make 6 in total.
Next cut an MDF ring for the Sub - 11" dia hole is a snug fit and a good amount left surrounding it for mounting.
The mould was then trimmed and test fitted into the car and the MDF ring put into position - I have it pointing up and across the boot.
Next glassed this in place and then started to make up the rest of the box - front and top. The only problem area is the boot lid lifter, that is in the way of the top of box so I have made a wire mould in the roof of the box that allows the boot lifter to pass easily.
Thats as far as I have got so far, there are photos but the camera is at home so I can't up load them!!
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
10-08-2016, 04:30 AM #1Started the boot build on Sunday.
Started by masking off the N/S of the boot. I used a double layer of 50mm masking tape and a double layer of GRP resistant tape to act as an "easy" release for the mould.
Then after double checking there were no gaps I applied 2 layers of Glass-fibre, and waited for it to set, for 2 hours. I left it 3 hours just to be safe and then started to ease the mould away from the interior, this was a mission but with a bit of bruit force and a long flexible plastic spatula it came out in one piece!!
Next was to test the volume of the mould - 1 CuFt for my 12" Diamond Sub, I did this with water and marked the mould where necessary to obtain the desired volume - leaving a bit over to allow for the other layers of GF soon to be put in.
2 more layers of glass-fibre on the inside-left to dry and then another 2 layers to make 6 in total.
Next cut an MDF ring for the Sub - 11" dia hole is a snug fit and a good amount left surrounding it for mounting.
The mould was then trimmed and test fitted into the car and the MDF ring put into position - I have it pointing up and across the boot.
Next glassed this in place and then started to make up the rest of the box - front and top. The only problem area is the boot lid lifter, that is in the way of the top of box so I have made a wire mould in the roof of the box that allows the boot lifter to pass easily.
Thats as far as I have got so far, there are photos but the camera is at home so I can't up load them!!
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
ICE-JVC kw-avx820,JL 300/4,JL 500/1,JL HO210R-W3V2,mb quart rua-216 components,2x veba headrest screens
TRD front lip,hid 8000k,ik 20's,front armrest,18'' black rims with chrome polished lip,k&n filter,hks superdragger,chrome a/c rings,rear view camera,bc coilovers
aaronabbott
10-08-2016, 04:34 AM #2nice work,cant wait for pics
ICE-JVC kw-avx820,JL 300/4,JL 500/1,JL HO210R-W3V2,mb quart rua-216 components,2x veba headrest screens
TRD front lip,hid 8000k,ik 20's,front armrest,18'' black rims with chrome polished lip,k&n filter,hks superdragger,chrome a/c rings,rear view camera,bc coilovers
did you use fleece over the back of the mold to reinforce it?and id you account for displacment of the sub in the 1cuft? you prob need to put a series of wooden braces behind the sub ring to the back of the box kind of like a tripod.If you dont when it gets playing the pressure and motor force of the sub may cause it to crack/split on the mounting surface.
should be a nice lightweight enclosure when done mate. but pics are needed!
LEXUS IS200 Sport Navigator - 140.8db
Kenwood DNX 8220 BT - Custom OEM Screen Conversion - PS2 - Epic 150
Front: MB Quart QSC216 / Centre: MB Quart PKH110 / Rear:MB Quart RUA213 / Sub: MB Quart PWH 302 x 2 / AMPS: JL 1000/1 - JL 300/4
sounds just like we discussed!
did you use fleece over the back of the mold to reinforce it?and id you account for displacment of the sub in the 1cuft? you prob need to put a series of wooden braces behind the sub ring to the back of the box kind of like a tripod.If you dont when it gets playing the pressure and motor force of the sub may cause it to crack/split on the mounting surface.
should be a nice lightweight enclosure when done mate. but pics are needed!
LEXUS IS200 Sport Navigator - 140.8db
Kenwood DNX 8220 BT - Custom OEM Screen Conversion - PS2 - Epic 150
Front: MB Quart QSC216 / Centre: MB Quart PKH110 / Rear:MB Quart RUA213 / Sub: MB Quart PWH 302 x 2 / AMPS: JL 1000/1 - JL 300/4
![[Image: Sig-enginebay.jpg]](http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y179/SteveHammatt/Sig-enginebay.jpg)
IS200 Turbo project now just about complete ! See my thread here and leave your comments.
Now running standalone Syvecs ECU and no stock ECU !
steviewevie
10-08-2016, 05:12 AM #4Ooh, this sounds like fun, get those pics up ! :biggrin:
IS200 Turbo project now just about complete ! See my thread here and leave your comments.
Now running standalone Syvecs ECU and no stock ECU !
The 1Cuft takes into account the sub displacement, and the sub ring is well supported, we don't want that moving.
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
10-08-2016, 05:13 AM #5Yup I forgot to mention the re-enforcement bit Doh!! That went in on top of the 5th layer, so 2 layers on top of it.
The 1Cuft takes into account the sub displacement, and the sub ring is well supported, we don't want that moving.
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
Boot with GRP:
![[Image: Photo072.jpg]](http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u226/yeldarb_album/Photo072.jpg)
Test fitting the ring:
![[Image: Photo074.jpg]](http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u226/yeldarb_album/Photo074.jpg)
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
10-08-2016, 05:14 AM #6Mobile phone photos:
Boot with GRP:
Test fitting the ring:
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
lol
can get you a nice 2ch amp to match your sub amp when your ready..
LEXUS IS200 Sport Navigator - 140.8db
Kenwood DNX 8220 BT - Custom OEM Screen Conversion - PS2 - Epic 150
Front: MB Quart QSC216 / Centre: MB Quart PKH110 / Rear:MB Quart RUA213 / Sub: MB Quart PWH 302 x 2 / AMPS: JL 1000/1 - JL 300/4
no need to tell us twice!!
lol
can get you a nice 2ch amp to match your sub amp when your ready..
LEXUS IS200 Sport Navigator - 140.8db
Kenwood DNX 8220 BT - Custom OEM Screen Conversion - PS2 - Epic 150
Front: MB Quart QSC216 / Centre: MB Quart PKH110 / Rear:MB Quart RUA213 / Sub: MB Quart PWH 302 x 2 / AMPS: JL 1000/1 - JL 300/4
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
10-08-2016, 05:30 AM #8I am still thinking about running the fronts at 2Ohm, bridging the 4 Ch. amp - just to squeeze a bit more performance out of it............
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
I may try to sand it, fill it and paint it. Nothing to loose if it looks :ohmy: then it can still be carpeted.
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
10-08-2016, 07:00 AM #9My filling skills are non existent so a carpet finish is the way to go I think.
I may try to sand it, fill it and paint it. Nothing to loose if it looks :ohmy: then it can still be carpeted.
"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
2tongues I am still thinking about running the fronts at 2Ohm, bridging the 4 Ch. amp - just to squeeze a bit more performance out of it............
they would still be at 4 ohm as this is the resistance of the speaker..
if you bridge the channels then you can have 2 x 270w at 4ohms which i think will kill your fronts..
the other option would be to go active using 2 ch to run the tweeter and 2 ch to run the mids.. would need some time setting it up to get right.
u could pop up when youve finished the box if you wanted to experiment..
last bit of advice for you mate, from the looks of the pic, the front baffle/mounting ring isnt one piece?? you really need a solid 18mm MDF ring to mount the sub on. give me a shout if you need anything.
LEXUS IS200 Sport Navigator - 140.8db
Kenwood DNX 8220 BT - Custom OEM Screen Conversion - PS2 - Epic 150
Front: MB Quart QSC216 / Centre: MB Quart PKH110 / Rear:MB Quart RUA213 / Sub: MB Quart PWH 302 x 2 / AMPS: JL 1000/1 - JL 300/4
2tongues I am still thinking about running the fronts at 2Ohm, bridging the 4 Ch. amp - just to squeeze a bit more performance out of it............
they would still be at 4 ohm as this is the resistance of the speaker..
if you bridge the channels then you can have 2 x 270w at 4ohms which i think will kill your fronts..
the other option would be to go active using 2 ch to run the tweeter and 2 ch to run the mids.. would need some time setting it up to get right.
u could pop up when youve finished the box if you wanted to experiment..
last bit of advice for you mate, from the looks of the pic, the front baffle/mounting ring isnt one piece?? you really need a solid 18mm MDF ring to mount the sub on. give me a shout if you need anything.
LEXUS IS200 Sport Navigator - 140.8db
Kenwood DNX 8220 BT - Custom OEM Screen Conversion - PS2 - Epic 150
Front: MB Quart QSC216 / Centre: MB Quart PKH110 / Rear:MB Quart RUA213 / Sub: MB Quart PWH 302 x 2 / AMPS: JL 1000/1 - JL 300/4
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