Fitting Guide for Mkiv Supra Twin Turbo Brakes onto an IS200
Fitting Guide for Mkiv Supra Twin Turbo Brakes onto an IS200
Firstly you need a set of Mkiv 4 pot Supra Calipers
![[Image: Newcaliperssmall.jpg]](http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h204/Sparkystav/Supra%20brakes/Newcaliperssmall.jpg)
And a set of FIGS inserts from here: http://www.figsprops.com/brake.htm
![[Image: FigsadaptorsSmall.jpg]](http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h204/Sparkystav/Supra%20brakes/FigsadaptorsSmall.jpg)
....Tools needed:
Jack & Jack stands
Breaker bar & or torque wrench 3/8 in socket wrench
8mm, 14mm, 17mm & 10mm sockets & open end wrenches...
brake fluid,... two bottles at least.....
4 (at least) copper brake fitting " crush" washers
lots of rags....
brake bleeding tool
you might use...
Strong Tin/ metal snips or Dremel with cut off wheel...
FIRST, you will need to press out the steel inserts for the bolts in the calipers & have the adaptors from FIGS pressed in!,... they MUST go in with the offset holes sitting towards the OUTSIDE of the calipers so the holes when mounted are as FAR APART as possible when they are installed...u cannot do ANYTHING before you do this...
NOTE: when working on the wheels each side...don't forget to realize that........... turning the wheel to left or right 'lock' can open up a TON of room to work in behind the wheel esp. when torqueing bolts & or breaking them loose...
OK, Jack up the car & pull off the wheels...
pull the caliper lines from oem caliper...14 mm socket.
..carefull!... have lots of rags or disposable towels...brake fluid will run out of the line & go everywhere.. they run like bitches!.. have a small flexible plastic cup poised under the caliper line/bolt, cuz as soon as you loosen it, it will leak ALOT & the brake fluid will run out of the hole in the caliper you just opened up by unbolting the line at least 1-3 ounces should run out of the caliper alone so keep the cup there to catch as much as possible......
Wrap the line in a rag or two, & fold it up out of your way...hook it to the hard line...
Unbolt the caliper... two 17mm bolts... remove it & careful not to spill too much more fluid out of the hole in the rear... it still has alot of fluid in it...
Now you need to cut the dust shield off...... there are 4 bolts holding it on, 8mm bolts,... pull the bolts & it falls loose... but it is trapped behind the hub... cut it at the narrowest points & as far apart as possible & bend the sides back & apart & pull it off...
Now you can bolt on the caliper...but you should slide the rotor on 1st & then secure it with a lug nut or three.....
then position the caliper & bolt it on.. the clearance will be TIGHT but it will work perfectly... .be sure to torque the caliper bolts properly...Here is the caliper/adaptors being test fitted...bolted RIGHT up perfectly...note the Supra/TT adaptors pressed into the calipers for the bolts.. .they are the silver discs with flattened sides on the back of the calipers...
now you can bolt the brake line onto the TT caliper... here is where you can swap lines to SS if you want,... it IS a good idea, but be careful of the fittings from the flexible line to the hard line,..you want a fresh clean perfect fitting 10mm open end wrench Or you can round off the brass fittings easily!
...I will not go into the rest of that process here in detail.. basically you take the old line off & pop the new stainless steel line on... torque the fittings properly... or just GOOD & HARD...... then bolt to caliper..... ....Be sure to position the BRAND NEW Copper Crush washers on top & bottom of the new or older brake line ON the Banjo bolt. There should be one on either side of the line/fitting on the bolt...above & below...
...be sure to tighten the bolt/line onto the caliper properly & solidly & hold the line to keep the line pointing UP if it has a tendency to be twisted with the bolt when tightening...
Apply the anti rattle goop to the backing plates for the pads...the arrow points in the direction of rotation... be sure you put the goop on the right side of the plates.. .or just apply to the backs of the pads... you need to get clear on how to put the clips & plates & shims & springs & pads w/pins together in the caliper......it is not hard & fairly easy to figger out if you have done anything like this or your own brakes before... but you should know what to do before this point... so put it all together & do it right...
Now you must bleed the system... if you just replaced the front calipers... then you need only bleed those circuits... follow the usual bleeding procedures to complete the job. if you are swapping to a new fluid you will need to bleed the entire system,... & you must check he fluids for compatibility. You might need to flush your old system out if the new fluid is synthetic or what not & not compatible with what you had... FIGURE THIS OUT 1ST!!
if you are doing brake lines you usually do the front & rear.. .so the rear will have to be bled too... this is a time where a good bleeding tool can save TONS of time... the power bleeder is awesome... it uses 10- 15 pounds of pressure to force the new fresh fluid thru the entire system & pushes out all the old fluid automatically.. .you just hook it up & test for a good seal.. .if you have one you can then fill with the brake fluid you prefer & pump it up & then go open the bleed valves on the calipers following the recommended bleeding order.. .the pressurised fluid will be pushed thru the entire system & out the calipers in minutes taking old fluid & detritus & any air bubbles however small that might have been in there as well..... no hassles no pumping, a TRUE One man operation & with VERY little mess!
When bled properly,the pedal should feel normal... inspect all bolts for proper torque settings, caliper bolts Brake line etc...
put the wheels back on, torque your wheel lug nuts properly & follow a proper bedding in procedure before enjoying your new brakes!! Very Important!!!
Enjoying after bedding in ....
WHY......?
These brakes have been touted & are recognised as as one of the best examples of production brakes on a mass produced car from any company ever.... the Toyota Engineering is solid & they are a value too even buying all new stuff.....A little over 12 inches or over an inch more than the IS front brakes i think & MUCH better/bigger caliper.....
Enjoy!!
Here are mine:
![[Image: Calipers.jpg]](http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h204/Sparkystav/Supra%20brakes/Calipers.jpg)
![[Image: LexuS-Copy.jpg]](http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h204/Sparkystav/LexuS-Copy.jpg)
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
04-05-2017, 01:20 PM #1Information gained from My.is, Pictures are my own
Firstly you need a set of Mkiv 4 pot Supra Calipers
And a set of FIGS inserts from here: http://www.figsprops.com/brake.htm
....Tools needed:
Jack & Jack stands
Breaker bar & or torque wrench 3/8 in socket wrench
8mm, 14mm, 17mm & 10mm sockets & open end wrenches...
brake fluid,... two bottles at least.....
4 (at least) copper brake fitting " crush" washers
lots of rags....
brake bleeding tool
you might use...
Strong Tin/ metal snips or Dremel with cut off wheel...
FIRST, you will need to press out the steel inserts for the bolts in the calipers & have the adaptors from FIGS pressed in!,... they MUST go in with the offset holes sitting towards the OUTSIDE of the calipers so the holes when mounted are as FAR APART as possible when they are installed...u cannot do ANYTHING before you do this...
NOTE: when working on the wheels each side...don't forget to realize that........... turning the wheel to left or right 'lock' can open up a TON of room to work in behind the wheel esp. when torqueing bolts & or breaking them loose...
OK, Jack up the car & pull off the wheels...
pull the caliper lines from oem caliper...14 mm socket.
..carefull!... have lots of rags or disposable towels...brake fluid will run out of the line & go everywhere.. they run like bitches!.. have a small flexible plastic cup poised under the caliper line/bolt, cuz as soon as you loosen it, it will leak ALOT & the brake fluid will run out of the hole in the caliper you just opened up by unbolting the line at least 1-3 ounces should run out of the caliper alone so keep the cup there to catch as much as possible......
Wrap the line in a rag or two, & fold it up out of your way...hook it to the hard line...
Unbolt the caliper... two 17mm bolts... remove it & careful not to spill too much more fluid out of the hole in the rear... it still has alot of fluid in it...
Now you need to cut the dust shield off...... there are 4 bolts holding it on, 8mm bolts,... pull the bolts & it falls loose... but it is trapped behind the hub... cut it at the narrowest points & as far apart as possible & bend the sides back & apart & pull it off...
Now you can bolt on the caliper...but you should slide the rotor on 1st & then secure it with a lug nut or three..... then position the caliper & bolt it on.. the clearance will be TIGHT but it will work perfectly... .be sure to torque the caliper bolts properly...
Here is the caliper/adaptors being test fitted...bolted RIGHT up perfectly...note the Supra/TT adaptors pressed into the calipers for the bolts.. .they are the silver discs with flattened sides on the back of the calipers...
now you can bolt the brake line onto the TT caliper... here is where you can swap lines to SS if you want,... it IS a good idea, but be careful of the fittings from the flexible line to the hard line,..you want a fresh clean perfect fitting 10mm open end wrench Or you can round off the brass fittings easily! ...I will not go into the rest of that process here in detail.. basically you take the old line off & pop the new stainless steel line on... torque the fittings properly... or just GOOD & HARD...... then bolt to caliper.....
....Be sure to position the BRAND NEW Copper Crush washers on top & bottom of the new or older brake line ON the Banjo bolt. There should be one on either side of the line/fitting on the bolt...above & below...
...be sure to tighten the bolt/line onto the caliper properly & solidly & hold the line to keep the line pointing UP if it has a tendency to be twisted with the bolt when tightening...
Apply the anti rattle goop to the backing plates for the pads...the arrow points in the direction of rotation... be sure you put the goop on the right side of the plates.. .or just apply to the backs of the pads... you need to get clear on how to put the clips & plates & shims & springs & pads w/pins together in the caliper......it is not hard & fairly easy to figger out if you have done anything like this or your own brakes before... but you should know what to do before this point... so put it all together & do it right...
Now you must bleed the system... if you just replaced the front calipers... then you need only bleed those circuits... follow the usual bleeding procedures to complete the job. if you are swapping to a new fluid you will need to bleed the entire system,... & you must check he fluids for compatibility. You might need to flush your old system out if the new fluid is synthetic or what not & not compatible with what you had... FIGURE THIS OUT 1ST!!
if you are doing brake lines you usually do the front & rear.. .so the rear will have to be bled too... this is a time where a good bleeding tool can save TONS of time... the power bleeder is awesome... it uses 10- 15 pounds of pressure to force the new fresh fluid thru the entire system & pushes out all the old fluid automatically.. .you just hook it up & test for a good seal.. .if you have one you can then fill with the brake fluid you prefer & pump it up & then go open the bleed valves on the calipers following the recommended bleeding order.. .the pressurised fluid will be pushed thru the entire system & out the calipers in minutes taking old fluid & detritus & any air bubbles however small that might have been in there as well..... no hassles no pumping, a TRUE One man operation & with VERY little mess!
When bled properly,the pedal should feel normal... inspect all bolts for proper torque settings, caliper bolts Brake line etc...
put the wheels back on, torque your wheel lug nuts properly & follow a proper bedding in procedure before enjoying your new brakes!! Very Important!!!
Enjoying after bedding in ....
WHY......?
These brakes have been touted & are recognised as as one of the best examples of production brakes on a mass produced car from any company ever.... the Toyota Engineering is solid & they are a value too even buying all new stuff.....A little over 12 inches or over an inch more than the IS front brakes i think & MUCH better/bigger caliper.....
Enjoy!!
Here are mine:
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
moke:
Tinted Glass-Sports Grill-Debadged-TTE Spoiler-TTE Lowering Springs-PLUK Kazama Exhaust-18" Aero Alloys-K&N Air Filter-Denso Iridium Power Spark Plugs-Quad Tail Light Conversion-6000K HID-X-White High Beam-6 LED Sidelights-Quad LED Boot Light-JDM OEM Smoked Front Fogs-JDM Blue Reverse Bulbs-LS430 Smoked Side Repeaters-6 LED Side Repeaters-Chrome Indicator Bulbs-Alpine HU-Rear Headrest Monitors-PIAA Super Sporza-Fan Washer Jets-Lex Tax Disc Holder-Chrome Gear Knob-2003 Cup Holder-Toyo Proxes T1-R
Great write up matemoke:
Tinted Glass-Sports Grill-Debadged-TTE Spoiler-TTE Lowering Springs-PLUK Kazama Exhaust-18" Aero Alloys-K&N Air Filter-Denso Iridium Power Spark Plugs-Quad Tail Light Conversion-6000K HID-X-White High Beam-6 LED Sidelights-Quad LED Boot Light-JDM OEM Smoked Front Fogs-JDM Blue Reverse Bulbs-LS430 Smoked Side Repeaters-6 LED Side Repeaters-Chrome Indicator Bulbs-Alpine HU-Rear Headrest Monitors-PIAA Super Sporza-Fan Washer Jets-Lex Tax Disc Holder-Chrome Gear Knob-2003 Cup Holder-Toyo Proxes T1-R
and no theres no limit, just the size of the caliper, my mate has 12 pot Tarox on his Audi, but the pistons are really small
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
05-05-2017, 03:22 AM #5No mate, only the UK spec twin turbo model had the 4 pot front calipers, the rest have 2 pot with sliders, the same style as the IS.
and no theres no limit, just the size of the caliper, my mate has 12 pot Tarox on his Audi, but the pistons are really small
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav No mate, only the UK spec twin turbo model had the 4 pot front calipers
Not strictly true, was an option on the JDM model all be it not one you see very often
Must admit found the twin pot OK as long as you had a decent set of pads on it.
Toyota Altezza Z Edition.
![[Image: sig.jpg]](http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/todd69/sig.jpg)
Sparkystav No mate, only the UK spec twin turbo model had the 4 pot front calipers
Not strictly true, was an option on the JDM model all be it not one you see very often
Must admit found the twin pot OK as long as you had a decent set of pads on it.
Toyota Altezza Z Edition.
purplewitch
05-05-2017, 04:58 AM #9I can tell you, certainly on the Supra, getting wheels to fit over them is an absolute nightmare ... all the ones I like won't fit. Found some I don't mind but I still don't have full wheel lock.. so when you see me doing a 27 point turn, it's not because I'm a girl, it's because I want to have tyres left at the end lol
purplewitch24 I can tell you, certainly on the Supra, getting wheels to fit over them is an absolute nightmare ... all the ones I like won't fit. Found some I don't mind but I still don't have full wheel lock.. so when you see me doing a 27 point turn, it's not because I'm a girl, it's because I want to have tyres left at the end lolheard that one before :p
My Garage
Supra Build Thread
' Nothing feels quick when your other car has a 1000bhp - JamieP
Quote:A Supra without a spoiler is like a Gypsy's dog without a Nob.
Dan_Turism0
05-05-2017, 05:07 AM #10purplewitch24 I can tell you, certainly on the Supra, getting wheels to fit over them is an absolute nightmare ... all the ones I like won't fit. Found some I don't mind but I still don't have full wheel lock.. so when you see me doing a 27 point turn, it's not because I'm a girl, it's because I want to have tyres left at the end lolheard that one before :p
My Garage
Supra Build Thread
' Nothing feels quick when your other car has a 1000bhp - JamieP
Quote:A Supra without a spoiler is like a Gypsy's dog without a Nob.
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