IS 200 How to Change Front Brake Pads (and Disks)

JapCarForum Car Manufacturers Lexus/Toyota IS200 / IS300 / SPORTCROSS / Altezza Workshop - Submit Your Tip! IS 200 How to Change Front Brake Pads (and Disks)

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dodgydave
Senior Member

472

04-06-2017, 06:14 AM

First job is to jack the car up and remove the front wheels but before jacking the car just loosen the front wheel nuts, just a little.

I jack the car using a trolley jack under the engine cross-member and support the car on axle stands under the front end of the sills, where the standard jack normally sits.

Once you have removed the wheel you will see this.....

[Image: CIMG2113.jpg]

OK so you first need to undo 2 bolts that hold the calliper.....

[Image: CIMG2116.jpg]

This is the top one shown there is another one holding the lower end of the calliper shown here.......

[Image: CIMG2115.jpg]

OK you can now lift off the calliper and put it to one side I rest it on the track rod arm.....

[Image: CIMG2120.jpg]

Now you can see the pads and springs.......

[Image: CIMG2118.jpg]

Now gently pull off the two springs and you can prise out the pads and there shims. Note the positions of all components, take a photo if necessary.

[Image: CIMG2121.jpg]

Next if you are changing the disk you need to remove the part that the calliper bolts too. To do this you need to undo 2 bolts using a 17mm socket.

The bolts are shown here.....

[Image: CIMG2123.jpg]

These can be quite tight and you may need to use a socket with a long bar or in my case because I don't have a long bar I used my torque wrench.

It also helps at this stage to turn the steering so that you can get at the 2 bolts..........

[Image: CIMG2124.jpg]

You can then remove this piece..........

[Image: CIMG2125.jpg]

If you're lucky like me the disk will just fall off but if not there are a couple of holes in the face of the disk (10mm I think) which you can screw some 10mm set screws into and push the disk off. You can see the two holes in this picture....

[Image: CIMG2128.jpg]

and you are left with just the hub like this......

[Image: CIMG2127.jpg]

Which you should clean up ready for the disk to mate to.

While you have it all apart you should check the slide pins that the calliper slides on as these are known for seizing up. I found one of mine was quite corroded and needed cleaning up and re-greasing.....

[Image: CIMG2137.jpg]

I used some general purpose grease that I just happen to have in the garage.

[Image: CIMG2138.jpg]

Next you need to clean up and grease the shims and in my case I had to do the back of the pads as I was re-fitting the old ones........

[Image: CIMG2142.jpg]

I used copper grease on the back of the pads and each side of the shims.....

[Image: CIMG2143.jpg]

This is what I use but you can get something similar in small tubes from places like Halfords or any motor factors.....

[Image: CIMG2141.jpg]

dodgydave

04-06-2017, 06:14 AM #1

OK, so I've been promising this for a while and had some time today so thought I would have a go at it.

First of all you will notice that during the sequence of pictures my brake calliper miraculously changes colour, don't worry about this it is because I actually took these pictures when I stripped the brakes down to paint the callipers :lol:

The usual workshop disclaimers apply, if you are not sure or don't have the tools don't do the job.

Tools you will need for this job:-

14mm Socket (probably 1/2" drive)
1/2" drive ratchet
maybe a small screwdriver and pliers to prise out the clips and things
Torque Wrench
some copper grease (for the shims)
some general purpose grease (for the sliders)

So something like this.....

[Image: CIMG2091.jpg]

First job is to jack the car up and remove the front wheels but before jacking the car just loosen the front wheel nuts, just a little.

I jack the car using a trolley jack under the engine cross-member and support the car on axle stands under the front end of the sills, where the standard jack normally sits.

Once you have removed the wheel you will see this.....

[Image: CIMG2113.jpg]

OK so you first need to undo 2 bolts that hold the calliper.....

[Image: CIMG2116.jpg]

[Image: CIMG2117.jpg]

This is the top one shown there is another one holding the lower end of the calliper shown here.......

[Image: CIMG2115.jpg]

OK you can now lift off the calliper and put it to one side I rest it on the track rod arm.....

[Image: CIMG2120.jpg]

Now you can see the pads and springs.......

[Image: CIMG2118.jpg]

Now gently pull off the two springs and you can prise out the pads and there shims. Note the positions of all components, take a photo if necessary.

[Image: CIMG2121.jpg]

Next if you are changing the disk you need to remove the part that the calliper bolts too. To do this you need to undo 2 bolts using a 17mm socket.

The bolts are shown here.....

[Image: CIMG2123.jpg]

These can be quite tight and you may need to use a socket with a long bar or in my case because I don't have a long bar I used my torque wrench.

It also helps at this stage to turn the steering so that you can get at the 2 bolts..........

[Image: CIMG2124.jpg]

You can then remove this piece..........

[Image: CIMG2125.jpg]

If you're lucky like me the disk will just fall off but if not there are a couple of holes in the face of the disk (10mm I think) which you can screw some 10mm set screws into and push the disk off. You can see the two holes in this picture....

[Image: CIMG2128.jpg]

and you are left with just the hub like this......

[Image: CIMG2127.jpg]

Which you should clean up ready for the disk to mate to.

While you have it all apart you should check the slide pins that the calliper slides on as these are known for seizing up. I found one of mine was quite corroded and needed cleaning up and re-greasing.....

[Image: CIMG2137.jpg]

I used some general purpose grease that I just happen to have in the garage.

[Image: CIMG2138.jpg]

Next you need to clean up and grease the shims and in my case I had to do the back of the pads as I was re-fitting the old ones........

[Image: CIMG2142.jpg]

I used copper grease on the back of the pads and each side of the shims.....

[Image: CIMG2143.jpg]

This is what I use but you can get something similar in small tubes from places like Halfords or any motor factors.....

[Image: CIMG2141.jpg]

dodgydave
Senior Member

472

04-06-2017, 06:18 AM

. Using your 17mm socket you need to torque these bolts up to 118 N-m. If you don't have a torque wrench then you will have to guess it of course but I would suggest that anyone that is going to do this sort of work should buy one, it will be invaluable in the long
run.

Here's a picture of the bracket back on and upper bolt in correct position......

[Image: CIMG2144.jpg]

and lower bolt tightened.......

[Image: CIMG2145.jpg]

Next you can put the pads and shims back in and finally place the 2 springs back in there holes in the top of the pads. All should look as here........

[Image: CIMG2146.jpg]

Now you need to replace the calliper over the pads but before you do this, if you have renewed the pads the pistons will need bushing back in to the calliper to allow for the thicker pads. I didn't need to do this as I was re-using the old pads but I normally use a "G" clamp and just gently tighten to push the pistons back. Watch the level of brake fluid in the reservoir though, this shouldn't be a problem but if it's been topped up with worn pads then you may need to drain a little off before pushing the pistons in. You can either use something like a syringe to draw some of the fluid out or you can loosen the bleed nipple on the calliper and push some of the fluid out there.

So one you've slipped the calliper back on replace and tighten the bolts in the slides....

[Image: CIMG2147.jpg]

You may need to hold the back part of the slide with an open ended spanner when tightening the bolts.....

[Image: CIMG2148.jpg]

Tighten the bolts to 34 N-m.

[Image: CIMG2149.jpg]

Now all you have to do is put the wheels back on, tighten the bolts hand tight, then lower to the ground and tighten the wheel nuts to 103 N-m.

You should also re-torque the wheel nuts after about 100miles or so.

Now stand back and give yourself a pat on the back for a good job done and you saved yourself a wad of money as well Big Grin

Dave

dodgydave

04-06-2017, 06:18 AM #2

So onto re-fitting. This is pretty much reversal of dismantling.

First clean the hub and apply a small amount of your chosen copper grease and place the disk onto the hub.

Next you need to bolt the bracket that the calliper attaches to back on (still don't know what this bit is called :lol Smile . Using your 17mm socket you need to torque these bolts up to 118 N-m. If you don't have a torque wrench then you will have to guess it of course but I would suggest that anyone that is going to do this sort of work should buy one, it will be invaluable in the long
run.

Here's a picture of the bracket back on and upper bolt in correct position......

[Image: CIMG2144.jpg]

and lower bolt tightened.......

[Image: CIMG2145.jpg]

Next you can put the pads and shims back in and finally place the 2 springs back in there holes in the top of the pads. All should look as here........

[Image: CIMG2146.jpg]

Now you need to replace the calliper over the pads but before you do this, if you have renewed the pads the pistons will need bushing back in to the calliper to allow for the thicker pads. I didn't need to do this as I was re-using the old pads but I normally use a "G" clamp and just gently tighten to push the pistons back. Watch the level of brake fluid in the reservoir though, this shouldn't be a problem but if it's been topped up with worn pads then you may need to drain a little off before pushing the pistons in. You can either use something like a syringe to draw some of the fluid out or you can loosen the bleed nipple on the calliper and push some of the fluid out there.

So one you've slipped the calliper back on replace and tighten the bolts in the slides....

[Image: CIMG2147.jpg]

You may need to hold the back part of the slide with an open ended spanner when tightening the bolts.....

[Image: CIMG2148.jpg]

Tighten the bolts to 34 N-m.

[Image: CIMG2149.jpg]

Now all you have to do is put the wheels back on, tighten the bolts hand tight, then lower to the ground and tighten the wheel nuts to 103 N-m.

You should also re-torque the wheel nuts after about 100miles or so.

Now stand back and give yourself a pat on the back for a good job done and you saved yourself a wad of money as well Big Grin

Dave

Lexusboy
Posting Freak

9,267

04-06-2017, 06:31 AM

Nice one Dave :thumbup1:

What you going to do next?

Lexusboy

04-06-2017, 06:31 AM #3

Nice one Dave :thumbup1:

What you going to do next?

dodgydave
Senior Member

472

04-06-2017, 06:33 AM

Well I've still got the rear brakes to do. Might get that done before tea :lol:

dodgydave

04-06-2017, 06:33 AM #4

Well I've still got the rear brakes to do. Might get that done before tea :lol:

Moley
Posting Freak

6,230

04-06-2017, 07:37 AM

Do you need the springs that are shown in the pic ??

We just changed my discs and pads and I cant remember seeing them !!!!

Lexus IS200 Mods--TTE Supercharger, Tein Superstreet Coilovers & EDFC, 6000K HID Lights, HKS Silent High Power Exhaust, DBA Front Discs, Kenwood DNX9240 Head Unit, 19" Rims, TRD Kit, FIGS Bonnet Struts, Greddy Pillar Pod & Defi Gauges, TTE Red ARBS . And Been To WIM twice

Moley

04-06-2017, 07:37 AM #5

Do you need the springs that are shown in the pic ??

We just changed my discs and pads and I cant remember seeing them !!!!

dodgydave
Senior Member

472

04-06-2017, 09:15 AM

I don't think that's what Moley was asking. I think he's suggesting that he didn't have any springs at all.

I don't think it's a major problem if the springs aren't there but I would try and get some new ones if it was me.