Assistance needed with Dastek Piggyback Wiring
Assistance needed with Dastek Piggyback Wiring
Hi All,
I am new to the forum and have purchased a TTE kit recently (for the IS200) which came with a Dastek piggypack unit. The seller had this uninstalled for quite some time and can't recall the colour coded connections on the unit so I am asking for your assistance. The unit is pictured below.
There are 5 wires and one seems not to have been used before:
- two solid brown
- red with yellow stripe
- solid red
- pink (not used previously)
I've already contacted Patrik and will get one of his blackboxes before the end of the year but can't afford it right now. For now, what do I do with the Dastek?
If I was to guess and that's all it'd be. The red and black go to power and Earth, then the other would go between the map sensor wire. But which was I don't know.
That's the thing- there is no black. Just two solid browns. The picture has a shadow which may be misleading which is why i listed the wires as well.
If I use a multi-meter, what can I look for across wires to help figure it out?
I think I may have the power wires figured (two were sliced into another wire but the other two are clean cuts). For the to-ECU and from-ECU wires, on a regular FCD if I connected them the wrong way what would happen?
You'd get fault code and the car wouldn't start, but shouldn't damage anything.
I got around to installing this past weekend and the kit went in fine. The Dastek was wired in similar to the FCD diagrams I found on here where what I assume to be the power wires went to E6-21 (-ve) and E2-8 (+ve). I first start the car without touching E5-9 to hear how it runs. I then put the Dastek in series and it ran the same way without error code with the other two 'signal' wires (even when I switched them around). I was praying for an error code when I swapped the wires around but now I'm confused since I got none. I don't even know it the Dastek is doing anything since the voltage going into and coming out seems to be the same for the most part (fluctuates between 1.x and 3.x though I can't be 100% sure its identical due to fluctuation).
I decided to leave it as is for now until I get the blackbox. Dastek (the company) was of no help with the unit wire diagram and told me to work it out with the seller....horrible waste of time.
The worst part now is that the car seems to run the same as N/A (if not lazier!). The performance is not what I expected at all and this morning I could not even break past 160km/h on a piece of highway that the car normally sails past 200km/h. Does this sound like a problem with my wiring/FCD and I should just get a blackbox now?
The bypass is fine. This used kit came with a HKS BOV which I disabled to see if it makes a difference (it does not).
In other words, mine does NOT run like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9YHno2IJwk
Maybe it's been adjusted fully back? Does the little screw turn?
^^Just seeing this. I can check it later today but the seller told me that was already adjusted for the IS so don't turn it.
On the other hand, I checked the bypass and pipe connections and could find no problem; bypass fully shuts when I fully open throttle and there are no leaks identified yet.
As it pertains to the charger, I notice that it does not spin on idle and to my mind this makes sense as the clutch is disengaged. When the engine revs up it starts to spin while the bypass closes. There are three bolt holes on the face of the SC pulley which I assume will force the SC to spin even at idle if I put three bolts in there. Is that how it is supposed to be setup or should I just leave it as is?
I ordered the blackbox but that won't get here for another couple weeks.
theblitz6666 As it pertains to the charger, I notice that it does not spin on idle and to my mind this makes sense as the clutch is disengaged. When the engine revs up it starts to spin while the bypass closes. There are three bolt holes on the face of the SC pulley which I assume will force the SC to spin even at idle if I put three bolts in there. Is that how it is supposed to be setup or should I just leave it as is?There you have it, mate. The clutch needs to be either electronically engaged or bolted, otherwise you won't have any boost. The reason the supercharger spins when you rev your engine is because the intake sucks air through it.
theblitz6666 As it pertains to the charger, I notice that it does not spin on idle and to my mind this makes sense as the clutch is disengaged. When the engine revs up it starts to spin while the bypass closes. There are three bolt holes on the face of the SC pulley which I assume will force the SC to spin even at idle if I put three bolts in there. Is that how it is supposed to be setup or should I just leave it as is?There you have it, mate. The clutch needs to be either electronically engaged or bolted, otherwise you won't have any boost. The reason the supercharger spins when you rev your engine is because the intake sucks air through it.