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My Toyota MR2 build thread - 1994 GT-S

My Toyota MR2 build thread - 1994 GT-S

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toxo
Posting Freak
4,843
02-11-2016, 09:02 AM
OK, so I looked at the sensor while it was on the car and all seemed OK. This is how they are meant to look (albeit a bit of an old one):

[Image: senderBefore.jpg]

I noticed the top was a little bit loose... so I pulled it off :lol:

[Image: senderAfter.jpg]

Not ideal Smile Certainly can't have been telling the ECU much!

Dropped the new door control module in too, which was just a straight 30 second swap. Now I can mess around with my mirror positions again which are all wrong.

Phil, do you know whether your driver's side window switch does auto and manual in both up and down? IE is it 5 position (auto up - manual up - stopped - manual down - auto down) or is it missing one? Some early cars only have auto in one direction IIRC (think they are missing auto down?) and if that's the case you might want the window controls before I bin them? The later ones have more LEDs in them too but I can't remember whether the difference is a rev thing or a target market thing or what...
Edited 14-12-2009, 06:46 PM by toxo.
toxo
02-11-2016, 09:02 AM #231

OK, so I looked at the sensor while it was on the car and all seemed OK. This is how they are meant to look (albeit a bit of an old one):

[Image: senderBefore.jpg]

I noticed the top was a little bit loose... so I pulled it off :lol:

[Image: senderAfter.jpg]

Not ideal Smile Certainly can't have been telling the ECU much!

Dropped the new door control module in too, which was just a straight 30 second swap. Now I can mess around with my mirror positions again which are all wrong.

Phil, do you know whether your driver's side window switch does auto and manual in both up and down? IE is it 5 position (auto up - manual up - stopped - manual down - auto down) or is it missing one? Some early cars only have auto in one direction IIRC (think they are missing auto down?) and if that's the case you might want the window controls before I bin them? The later ones have more LEDs in them too but I can't remember whether the difference is a rev thing or a target market thing or what...

FirebirdPhil
Posting Freak
7,101
02-11-2016, 09:14 AM
Hmmmm I think I can see what's wrong with that one.

"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
02-11-2016, 09:14 AM #232

Hmmmm I think I can see what's wrong with that one.


"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"

steviewevie
Posting Freak
7,993
02-11-2016, 10:37 AM
toxo I noticed the top was a little bit loose... so I pulled it off :lol:

[Image: senderAfter.jpg]

Not ideal Smile Certainly can't have been telling the ECU much!

:lol:

[Image: Sig-enginebay.jpg]
IS200 Turbo project now just about complete ! See my thread here and leave your comments.
Now running standalone Syvecs ECU and no stock ECU !
steviewevie
02-11-2016, 10:37 AM #233

toxo I noticed the top was a little bit loose... so I pulled it off :lol:

[Image: senderAfter.jpg]

Not ideal Smile Certainly can't have been telling the ECU much!

:lol:


[Image: Sig-enginebay.jpg]
IS200 Turbo project now just about complete ! See my thread here and leave your comments.
Now running standalone Syvecs ECU and no stock ECU !

toxo
Posting Freak
4,843
03-11-2016, 10:09 AM
Got bored today so in the 20 minutes I've been home I sorted out moving my TOAD alarm LED into the stock alarm position. My car didn't have a factory alarm, but the ones that did have an LED in the rev counter marked SECURITY. When my alarm was fitted (which was a complete bodge job from start to finish) they just cut a hole in my dashboard and glued the LED in place. I wasn't happy with it so I fitted a proper LED clip but it continued irritating me.

A friend sent me a rev counter with a security LED in it for free which was very kind of him. The standard LED is just red and the TOAD LED is bi-colour (red and green) which means it has an extra pin, so it's not just a straight swap. This is how I did it:

Parts Required:
5mm bi-colour LED from Maplin (part YH75S, £1.09)
Some form of 3 pin connector (I scavenged plug + socket from a dead PC motherboard)

When referring to the LED I'll talk about cathodes and anodes. The LED is 2 LEDs in one which means it can be in 4 states - off, green (1 cathode activated), red (the other cathode activated) or orange (both cathodes activated, red + green). The LED has a common anode (both LED circuits share a single -ve) and the red and green cathodes are identified by having the shortest pin, and then the anode is the pin in the middle. Like this:

[Image: yh75drg.jpg]

New gauge:
[Image: 01-securityGaugeFront.jpg]

Back of gauge, you can see the LED is a totally seperate board:
[Image: 02-securityGaugeBack.jpg]

The white piece of plastic is just clipped to the main PCB in 2 places, so that comes off quite easily. Once that's done the black wire from the LED board is attached to the main PCB with a push on connector which you can just pull off.

After that the LED board has a single screw, and once off looks like this:
[Image: 03-LEDboardbefore.jpg]

Took my electric solder sucker to it and removed all components:
[Image: 04-LEDboardstripped.jpg]

Seeing as bi-colour LEDs are 3 pin, I was going to need a 3 pin connector to make the connection between the instrument cluster and the alarm loom. The techies amongst you will recognise this:

[Image: 05-fanConnectorBefore.jpg]

It's a CPU fan connector from a motherboard. And 30 seconds later...

[Image: 06-fanConnectorAfter.jpg]

I managed to fit the 3 pin LED into the board with a bit of bending of the red cathode pin. The common anode and green cathode fit nicely into the board in place of the original LED's cathone and anode:

[Image: 07-LEDtestfitted1.jpg]

[Image: 08-LEDtestfitted2.jpg]

After that I soldered the black wire from the fan connector into the remaining PCB hole next to the LED (the track for which runs to the anode pin on the LED), the yellow wire to the PCB hole into where the original red wire ran, and the new red wire into the hole opposite end of the board to the LED, left from where the diode was originally connected:

[Image: 09-LEDboardfinishedback.jpg]

[Image: 10-LEDboardfinishedfront.jpg]

[Image: 11-LEDboardfinishedtop.jpg]

Screwed it back on - all that's left is to punch a hole in the back of the instrument cluster to run the wire out of, and to snip the TOAD LED off and solder the white 3-pin connector on in its place. Simples!
Edited 15-12-2009, 07:58 PM by toxo.
toxo
03-11-2016, 10:09 AM #234

Got bored today so in the 20 minutes I've been home I sorted out moving my TOAD alarm LED into the stock alarm position. My car didn't have a factory alarm, but the ones that did have an LED in the rev counter marked SECURITY. When my alarm was fitted (which was a complete bodge job from start to finish) they just cut a hole in my dashboard and glued the LED in place. I wasn't happy with it so I fitted a proper LED clip but it continued irritating me.

A friend sent me a rev counter with a security LED in it for free which was very kind of him. The standard LED is just red and the TOAD LED is bi-colour (red and green) which means it has an extra pin, so it's not just a straight swap. This is how I did it:

Parts Required:
5mm bi-colour LED from Maplin (part YH75S, £1.09)
Some form of 3 pin connector (I scavenged plug + socket from a dead PC motherboard)

When referring to the LED I'll talk about cathodes and anodes. The LED is 2 LEDs in one which means it can be in 4 states - off, green (1 cathode activated), red (the other cathode activated) or orange (both cathodes activated, red + green). The LED has a common anode (both LED circuits share a single -ve) and the red and green cathodes are identified by having the shortest pin, and then the anode is the pin in the middle. Like this:

[Image: yh75drg.jpg]

New gauge:
[Image: 01-securityGaugeFront.jpg]

Back of gauge, you can see the LED is a totally seperate board:
[Image: 02-securityGaugeBack.jpg]

The white piece of plastic is just clipped to the main PCB in 2 places, so that comes off quite easily. Once that's done the black wire from the LED board is attached to the main PCB with a push on connector which you can just pull off.

After that the LED board has a single screw, and once off looks like this:
[Image: 03-LEDboardbefore.jpg]

Took my electric solder sucker to it and removed all components:
[Image: 04-LEDboardstripped.jpg]

Seeing as bi-colour LEDs are 3 pin, I was going to need a 3 pin connector to make the connection between the instrument cluster and the alarm loom. The techies amongst you will recognise this:

[Image: 05-fanConnectorBefore.jpg]

It's a CPU fan connector from a motherboard. And 30 seconds later...

[Image: 06-fanConnectorAfter.jpg]

I managed to fit the 3 pin LED into the board with a bit of bending of the red cathode pin. The common anode and green cathode fit nicely into the board in place of the original LED's cathone and anode:

[Image: 07-LEDtestfitted1.jpg]

[Image: 08-LEDtestfitted2.jpg]

After that I soldered the black wire from the fan connector into the remaining PCB hole next to the LED (the track for which runs to the anode pin on the LED), the yellow wire to the PCB hole into where the original red wire ran, and the new red wire into the hole opposite end of the board to the LED, left from where the diode was originally connected:

[Image: 09-LEDboardfinishedback.jpg]

[Image: 10-LEDboardfinishedfront.jpg]

[Image: 11-LEDboardfinishedtop.jpg]

Screwed it back on - all that's left is to punch a hole in the back of the instrument cluster to run the wire out of, and to snip the TOAD LED off and solder the white 3-pin connector on in its place. Simples!

steviewevie
Posting Freak
7,993
03-11-2016, 10:37 AM
Wow, great job and nice write-up. I do admire your attention to detail, all that work just to sort out an LED ! :thumbup:

[Image: Sig-enginebay.jpg]
IS200 Turbo project now just about complete ! See my thread here and leave your comments.
Now running standalone Syvecs ECU and no stock ECU !
steviewevie
03-11-2016, 10:37 AM #235

Wow, great job and nice write-up. I do admire your attention to detail, all that work just to sort out an LED ! :thumbup:


[Image: Sig-enginebay.jpg]
IS200 Turbo project now just about complete ! See my thread here and leave your comments.
Now running standalone Syvecs ECU and no stock ECU !

toxo
Posting Freak
4,843
03-11-2016, 10:40 AM
steviewevie Wow, great job and nice write-up. I do admire your attention to detail, all that work just to sort out an LED ! :thumbup:

I think it just annoys me that if there was a right way of doing things, which Toyota themselves did, why do it another way? S'probably the same reason I have the Celica chargecooler on my car instead of a better SMIC. Plus I like a stock look, and holes drilled in the dashboard for LEDs is not nice!

Plus it wasn't exactly a lot of work Big Grin
toxo
03-11-2016, 10:40 AM #236

steviewevie Wow, great job and nice write-up. I do admire your attention to detail, all that work just to sort out an LED ! :thumbup:

I think it just annoys me that if there was a right way of doing things, which Toyota themselves did, why do it another way? S'probably the same reason I have the Celica chargecooler on my car instead of a better SMIC. Plus I like a stock look, and holes drilled in the dashboard for LEDs is not nice!

Plus it wasn't exactly a lot of work Big Grin

Sparkystav
Administrator
14,683
03-11-2016, 11:46 AM
looks like good work mate.

sometimes i just run out of patience with these things

OutlawJapClub Admin Team
Sparkystav
03-11-2016, 11:46 AM #237

looks like good work mate.

sometimes i just run out of patience with these things


OutlawJapClub Admin Team

Demon
Posting Freak
1,614
03-11-2016, 12:01 PM
I take my hat off to you mate. Your attention to detail is just amazing, i love the updates on this as i know even if its just a small thing like an led its going to be epic and so detailed!!!!!

Keep up the good work Toxo, love it Big Grin

The 'Demon' is on its way :Shooting:

Now driving a Sh!tbox Sad
Smurf SOLD
Outlaw No: 016 Cool
Demon
03-11-2016, 12:01 PM #238

I take my hat off to you mate. Your attention to detail is just amazing, i love the updates on this as i know even if its just a small thing like an led its going to be epic and so detailed!!!!!

Keep up the good work Toxo, love it Big Grin


The 'Demon' is on its way :Shooting:

Now driving a Sh!tbox Sad
Smurf SOLD
Outlaw No: 016 Cool

FirebirdPhil
Posting Freak
7,101
04-11-2016, 01:56 AM
Lovely work my friend!!

"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
04-11-2016, 01:56 AM #239

Lovely work my friend!!


"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"

steviewevie
Posting Freak
7,993
04-11-2016, 03:03 AM
toxo Plus it wasn't exactly a lot of work Big Grin

Maybe not for you, but you're an electronics genius compared to me ! :laugh: :thumbup1:

[Image: Sig-enginebay.jpg]
IS200 Turbo project now just about complete ! See my thread here and leave your comments.
Now running standalone Syvecs ECU and no stock ECU !
steviewevie
04-11-2016, 03:03 AM #240

toxo Plus it wasn't exactly a lot of work Big Grin

Maybe not for you, but you're an electronics genius compared to me ! :laugh: :thumbup1:


[Image: Sig-enginebay.jpg]
IS200 Turbo project now just about complete ! See my thread here and leave your comments.
Now running standalone Syvecs ECU and no stock ECU !

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