HOW TO: Add a tilt/vibration sensor to the OEM IS200 / IS300 Alarm
HOW TO: Add a tilt/vibration sensor to the OEM IS200 / IS300 Alarm
Not any more...
After installing my Rays alloys I became very aware of how easy it would be for someone to jack the car up and nick them without setting the alarm off. I didn't fancy having an aftermarket alarm installed for just this function. So I scoured the net and found this:
Clifford Digital Tilt Sensor 507M
A relatively inexpensive tilt sensor that is not only for use with Clifford alarms, but also works well on a whole host of OEM and aftermarket alarms as well.
Lets get on with the install.....
**** Whenever working with the electronics of a car ALWAYS disconnect the battery first*******
1. Firstly we need to get behind the drivers side dashboard area (for UK peeps). Undo the three screws shown and then pull on the plastic cover to unclip it from the rest of the dash.
![[Image: s_img_0248.jpg]](http://i2.sqi.sh/s_1/7oa/l_img_0248.jpg)
![[Image: s_img_0251.jpg]](http://i2.sqi.sh/s_1/7oa/l_img_0251.jpg)
![[Image: s_img_0249.jpg]](http://i2.sqi.sh/s_1/7oa/l_img_0249.jpg)
2. Now in order to get as much access as possible, unclip all of the wires and other gadgets attached to this part of the dash.
![[Image: s_img_0244.jpg]](http://i2.sqi.sh/s_1/7oc/l_img_0244.jpg)
![[Image: s_img_0245.jpg]](http://i2.sqi.sh/s_1/7or/l_img_0245.jpg)
![[Image: s_img_0246.jpg]](http://i2.sqi.sh/s_1/7oc/l_img_0246.jpg)
![[Image: s_img_0247.jpg]](http://i2.sqi.sh/s_1/7ol/l_img_0247.jpg)
3. Now unscrew this little box and move it out the way. For behind it is our Alarm ECU.
![[Image: s_img_0243.jpg]](http://i2.sqi.sh/s_1/7od/l_img_0243.jpg)
4. Locate the alarm ECU box. it will be the box closes to the steering column and have two wire harnesses plugged into it. To gain better access to it you may need to unplug some of the harnesses from various other adjacent boxes. **Dont worry though. Whatever you unplug can ONLY be plugged back into the same place again**
![[Image: s_img_0232.jpg]](http://i2.sqi.sh/s_1/7oe/l_img_0232.jpg)
5. Once you've found the Alarm ECU, unplug the larger of the two harnesses and pull it out towards you as far as it will go (just be aware that it doesn't have much slack). On this harness we are looking for 3 wires: [B]Red+White (Constant +12v), Black+White (Ground), Blue+Red (Alarm Trigger)[/B]
![[Image: s_img_0239.jpg]](http://i2.sqi.sh/s_1/7of/l_img_0239.jpg)
6. Match these 3 wires up with the wires on your 507M tilt sensor. Red goes to Red+White, Black goes to Black+White, Blue goes to Blue+Red. To connect them up you can either solder the wires (like I did) or use wire taps such as the Posi-tap's pictured here:
![[Image: s_img_0237.jpg]](http://i2.sqi.sh/s_1/7og/l_img_0237.jpg)
7. Whichever method you choose, make sure there will not be any kind of short circuit by tapping the wires at different lengths along the harness and also wrapping them in electric tape afterwards
![[Image: s_img_0240.jpg]](http://i2.sqi.sh/s_1/7oh/l_img_0240.jpg)
8. Mounting of the 507M is quite important in order to get the desired effect.
A) If you only want the alarm to go off when your car is being towed or jacked up, attach the 507M to a solid surface such as the back of the footwell area.
B) If you want the alarm to sound for all of the above plus for smaller things too (like someone swinging their car door into your car in a carpark) mount the 507M on top of a wiring harness.
![[Image: s_img_0241.jpg]](http://i2.sqi.sh/s_1/7ok/l_img_0241.jpg)
9. With everything connected and fixed in place. Plug all of the wiring harness back in, put your dashboard back together and give yourself a pat on the back. TO TEST THE ALARM: Close all doors, bonnet..etc, lock the car. Wait until the Security light goes from solid to blinking (30secs?) and then rock the car about a bit.
As I went for 'option A' above, I got out my jack and began lifting the car. Sure enough after a few pumps the alarm went off
One of the things that bugs me most about the stock IS200 / IS300 alarm is that your car could get towed / jacked up / crashed into and the OEM alarm wouldn't bat an eyelid. It only seems to be if it detects motion inside the cabin or one of the doors is forcefully opened that will trigger.
Not any more...
After installing my Rays alloys I became very aware of how easy it would be for someone to jack the car up and nick them without setting the alarm off. I didn't fancy having an aftermarket alarm installed for just this function. So I scoured the net and found this:
Clifford Digital Tilt Sensor 507M
A relatively inexpensive tilt sensor that is not only for use with Clifford alarms, but also works well on a whole host of OEM and aftermarket alarms as well.
Lets get on with the install.....
**** Whenever working with the electronics of a car ALWAYS disconnect the battery first*******
1. Firstly we need to get behind the drivers side dashboard area (for UK peeps). Undo the three screws shown and then pull on the plastic cover to unclip it from the rest of the dash.
2. Now in order to get as much access as possible, unclip all of the wires and other gadgets attached to this part of the dash.
3. Now unscrew this little box and move it out the way. For behind it is our Alarm ECU.
4. Locate the alarm ECU box. it will be the box closes to the steering column and have two wire harnesses plugged into it. To gain better access to it you may need to unplug some of the harnesses from various other adjacent boxes. **Dont worry though. Whatever you unplug can ONLY be plugged back into the same place again**
5. Once you've found the Alarm ECU, unplug the larger of the two harnesses and pull it out towards you as far as it will go (just be aware that it doesn't have much slack). On this harness we are looking for 3 wires: [B]Red+White (Constant +12v), Black+White (Ground), Blue+Red (Alarm Trigger)[/B]
6. Match these 3 wires up with the wires on your 507M tilt sensor. Red goes to Red+White, Black goes to Black+White, Blue goes to Blue+Red. To connect them up you can either solder the wires (like I did) or use wire taps such as the Posi-tap's pictured here:
7. Whichever method you choose, make sure there will not be any kind of short circuit by tapping the wires at different lengths along the harness and also wrapping them in electric tape afterwards
8. Mounting of the 507M is quite important in order to get the desired effect.
A) If you only want the alarm to go off when your car is being towed or jacked up, attach the 507M to a solid surface such as the back of the footwell area.
B) If you want the alarm to sound for all of the above plus for smaller things too (like someone swinging their car door into your car in a carpark) mount the 507M on top of a wiring harness.
9. With everything connected and fixed in place. Plug all of the wiring harness back in, put your dashboard back together and give yourself a pat on the back. TO TEST THE ALARM: Close all doors, bonnet..etc, lock the car. Wait until the Security light goes from solid to blinking (30secs?) and then rock the car about a bit.
As I went for 'option A' above, I got out my jack and began lifting the car. Sure enough after a few pumps the alarm went off
![[Image: s_img_0245.jpg]](http://i2.sqi.sh/s_1/7oc/s_img_0245.jpg)
![[Image: LexuS-Copy.jpg]](http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h204/Sparkystav/LexuS-Copy.jpg)
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
12-03-2018, 06:07 AM #2Good work mate, but i dont know what this is and its certainly not on my car:
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Rabster well done mate although i see you used screw junction naughty naughty heat shrink and solder is the ONLY way lol
Naughty naught, you didn't read my how to
I firstly installed using the posi-taps (for the benefit of testing & pictures), then once i knew I had the right cables, moved on to full soldering
I would say that, if it wasn't for the posi-taps being quite bulky, I think I'd be happy to use them in this situation. Its not really as critical as ECU piggybacking or anything.
Rabster well done mate although i see you used screw junction naughty naughty heat shrink and solder is the ONLY way lol
Naughty naught, you didn't read my how to
I firstly installed using the posi-taps (for the benefit of testing & pictures), then once i knew I had the right cables, moved on to full soldering
I would say that, if it wasn't for the posi-taps being quite bulky, I think I'd be happy to use them in this situation. Its not really as critical as ECU piggybacking or anything.
oh i did but its the fact you even have some posi taps, i have just used 5m of heatshrink tubing in 2 days now thats some serious wiring lol
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