OEM Sat nav power wires
OEM Sat nav power wires
Anyone know of an ignition live that doesn't drop off when the key is turned?
I've just been to maplins and got a capacitor and blocking diode, but i'm buggered if i know how to wire it.
I figure just finding an suitable ignition live would be a better idea.
I do need it not to drop off or it interferes with the boot sequence of the tablet.
P.s. Thanks patrik, that helped a lot.
northernmonkey
29-01-2019, 04:40 AM #11FFS! If it ain't one problem it's another!
Anyone know of an ignition live that doesn't drop off when the key is turned?
I've just been to maplins and got a capacitor and blocking diode, but i'm buggered if i know how to wire it.
I figure just finding an suitable ignition live would be a better idea.
I do need it not to drop off or it interferes with the boot sequence of the tablet.
P.s. Thanks patrik, that helped a lot.
They all will I'm afraid. You could install a start button so you don't have to turn the key past the second position and therefore not turn off the other live?
![[Image: LexuS-Copy.jpg]](http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h204/Sparkystav/LexuS-Copy.jpg)
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
29-01-2019, 05:03 AM #12When you start you mean?
They all will I'm afraid. You could install a start button so you don't have to turn the key past the second position and therefore not turn off the other live?
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
IanS200 Cant remember where i found it but mine has one wire connected to starter circuit so screen doesnt close/switch off when starting car.
just found it.
if your car is 99-to 06-2001 the wire you want is pin 3... black and white to same colour on starter switch.
later model is same colour as above but its pin 15 to starter switch.
IanS200 Cant remember where i found it but mine has one wire connected to starter circuit so screen doesnt close/switch off when starting car.
just found it.
if your car is 99-to 06-2001 the wire you want is pin 3... black and white to same colour on starter switch.
later model is same colour as above but its pin 15 to starter switch.
I was womdering if something like sprinter2012 has done here, might also work.
http://www.outlawjapclub.co.uk/forum/sho...tor&page=3
I remember reading this before speaking to the bloke in maplins and got a blocking diode and 2200uF Capacitor.
However, if your pin above is safe to draw 1.5amp from all the time the unit is being used, then i'll do that. I'm gonna have to check the build date, as it's a 2001.
northernmonkey
29-01-2019, 09:39 AM #15so i could take my ign switched 12v from this? Also, where is this pin, back of the radio?
I was womdering if something like sprinter2012 has done here, might also work.
http://www.outlawjapclub.co.uk/forum/sho...tor&page=3
I remember reading this before speaking to the bloke in maplins and got a blocking diode and 2200uF Capacitor.
However, if your pin above is safe to draw 1.5amp from all the time the unit is being used, then i'll do that. I'm gonna have to check the build date, as it's a 2001.
![[Image: LidPowerWiring.jpg]](http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq341/dh-all-the-way/LidPowerWiring.jpg)
Unfortunately I can't remember what size capacitor I used and it's now been heat shrinked over so I can't see.
But it doesn't have to be very big to power the lid circuit for a few seconds.
However if you need it to power the Android tablet aswell it will need to be a decent sized one to stop it draining it before the engine starts.
The bit that catches most people out is where to put the diode, because despite most people thinking power flows from positive to negative, it doesn't. The electrons actually flow from negative to positive, which is why my diode is orientated/positioned where it is.
EDIT: The above method is the easiest, but if the current draw of the tablet is too high to make that practical. Then you can do what the OEM setup did, and take a feed from the starter circuit to power it during starting. Easiest place to find a wire for that would be the ignition barrel, but if you do use this method, I would suggest using this in conjunction with a capacitor incase there is a 'dead spot' while the key goes from 'ignition' to 'start'
sprinter2012
29-01-2019, 10:07 AM #16This is a quick wiring diagram I've drawn up to show how I stopped my lid from closing and then opening when you start the car...
Unfortunately I can't remember what size capacitor I used and it's now been heat shrinked over so I can't see.
But it doesn't have to be very big to power the lid circuit for a few seconds.
However if you need it to power the Android tablet aswell it will need to be a decent sized one to stop it draining it before the engine starts.
The bit that catches most people out is where to put the diode, because despite most people thinking power flows from positive to negative, it doesn't. The electrons actually flow from negative to positive, which is why my diode is orientated/positioned where it is.
EDIT: The above method is the easiest, but if the current draw of the tablet is too high to make that practical. Then you can do what the OEM setup did, and take a feed from the starter circuit to power it during starting. Easiest place to find a wire for that would be the ignition barrel, but if you do use this method, I would suggest using this in conjunction with a capacitor incase there is a 'dead spot' while the key goes from 'ignition' to 'start'
I know it's a pain in the backside mate, but if you have time, would you do a diagram for this for me?
northernmonkey
29-01-2019, 10:43 AM #17ok, so what your saying here is to put a ign live feed AND a starter live feed to it so it's got voltage at all times? would this not feed voltage back anywhere undesired?
I know it's a pain in the backside mate, but if you have time, would you do a diagram for this for me?
northernmonkey so i could take my ign switched 12v from this? Also, where is this pin, back of the radio?
I was womdering if something like sprinter2012 has done here, might also work.
http://www.outlawjapclub.co.uk/forum/sho...tor&page=3
I remember reading this before speaking to the bloke in maplins and got a blocking diode and 2200uF Capacitor.
However, if your pin above is safe to draw 1.5amp from all the time the unit is being used, then i'll do that. I'm gonna have to check the build date, as it's a 2001.
the pins/wire you need are the ones on sat-nav plug.
northernmonkey so i could take my ign switched 12v from this? Also, where is this pin, back of the radio?
I was womdering if something like sprinter2012 has done here, might also work.
http://www.outlawjapclub.co.uk/forum/sho...tor&page=3
I remember reading this before speaking to the bloke in maplins and got a blocking diode and 2200uF Capacitor.
However, if your pin above is safe to draw 1.5amp from all the time the unit is being used, then i'll do that. I'm gonna have to check the build date, as it's a 2001.
the pins/wire you need are the ones on sat-nav plug.
Also, the ignition circuit stays on during starting doesn't it? So that would probably be a better option to take power from.
Yes that's exactly what I mean, so when you turn the key the power source goes Acc>Ign>Acc
The wires behind the ignition barrel aren't high power so you won't blow anything, but you will need to put a diode/diodes in so the Acc circuit doesn't keep the ignition circuit on as soon as you turn the key.
I've confused myself by thinking about it too much, but I think you'll need two diodes because you don't want the ignition coming on with the Acc circuit, but you also don't want ALL the stuff on the Acc circuit coming on while the car is starting.
sprinter2012
29-01-2019, 12:34 PM #19Just noticed an error in my diagram, the bit I labelled as 'Battery +' should have been 'Switched Live +' so I updated the pic.
Also, the ignition circuit stays on during starting doesn't it? So that would probably be a better option to take power from.
Yes that's exactly what I mean, so when you turn the key the power source goes Acc>Ign>Acc
The wires behind the ignition barrel aren't high power so you won't blow anything, but you will need to put a diode/diodes in so the Acc circuit doesn't keep the ignition circuit on as soon as you turn the key.
I've confused myself by thinking about it too much, but I think you'll need two diodes because you don't want the ignition coming on with the Acc circuit, but you also don't want ALL the stuff on the Acc circuit coming on while the car is starting.
sprinter2012 Just noticed an error in my diagram, the bit I labelled as 'Battery +' should have been 'Switched Live +' so I updated the pic.
Also, the ignition circuit stays on during starting doesn't it? So that would probably be a better option to take power from.
Yes that's exactly what I mean, so when you turn the key the power source goes Acc>Ign>Acc
The wires behind the ignition barrel aren't high power so you won't blow anything, but you will need to put a diode/diodes in so the Acc circuit doesn't power the live doesn't keep the starter circuit on as soon as you turn the key.
I've confused myself by thinking about it too much, but I think you'll need two diodes because you don't want the ignition coming on with the Acc circuit, but you also don't want ALL the stuff on the Acc circuit coming on while the car is starting.
No, that makes perfect sense. I was speaking to a mate before who suggest the exact same thing and luckily i have 2 diodes that'll do just that. He also suggested using a capacitor just incase there is a momentery gap inbetween the ign and starter circuit, that should reduce the current draw for the capacitor, if indeed it is needed?
Thanks for your help mate, sorry for battering your head with it. Life was so much easier 20 years ago with an xr3! (just not as comfy!)
let's hope this is it now, no more problems please!
northernmonkey
29-01-2019, 12:58 PM #20sprinter2012 Just noticed an error in my diagram, the bit I labelled as 'Battery +' should have been 'Switched Live +' so I updated the pic.
Also, the ignition circuit stays on during starting doesn't it? So that would probably be a better option to take power from.
Yes that's exactly what I mean, so when you turn the key the power source goes Acc>Ign>Acc
The wires behind the ignition barrel aren't high power so you won't blow anything, but you will need to put a diode/diodes in so the Acc circuit doesn't power the live doesn't keep the starter circuit on as soon as you turn the key.
I've confused myself by thinking about it too much, but I think you'll need two diodes because you don't want the ignition coming on with the Acc circuit, but you also don't want ALL the stuff on the Acc circuit coming on while the car is starting.
No, that makes perfect sense. I was speaking to a mate before who suggest the exact same thing and luckily i have 2 diodes that'll do just that. He also suggested using a capacitor just incase there is a momentery gap inbetween the ign and starter circuit, that should reduce the current draw for the capacitor, if indeed it is needed?
Thanks for your help mate, sorry for battering your head with it. Life was so much easier 20 years ago with an xr3! (just not as comfy!)
let's hope this is it now, no more problems please!
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