Nissan Stagea Autobox Accumulator mod
Nissan Stagea Autobox Accumulator mod
Tools required.
1/2" Ratchet and 12mm,14mm,19mm sockets and extention
3/8" Ratchet and 10mm socket and extension
Pliers
Rags
Drain tub
Jacks/Stands
Also required at least 6 litres of ATF, possibly more. And two 50mm diameter core plugs.
Start by jacking the car up or geting it on a ramp, you will need plenty of height and make sure that you support the car securely.
Using the 19mm socket, undo and drain the gearbox. Replace the plug afterwards, there will still be oil in the sump.
Using a jack, support the rear of the transmission and undo the four M8 nuts with the 12mm socket in the middle of the crossmember that mount to the transmission.
Now undo the four outer crossmember to body mounting bolts using the 14mm socket and remove the crossmember. This was necessary on my car to access the rear sump mounting bolts.
Now using the 10mm socket, undo and remove the Oil cooler pipe bracket retainers at the front of the sump and the M6 sump bolts. It will help to leave a couple in at the front and allow the rear of the sump to drop slightly first to let the remaining oil drain out.
After that has finished draining, remove the remaining bolts and manouevre the sump back and down out of the way, I had to ease it past the oil cooler pipes at the front of the sump.
Now undo and remove the M6 mounting bolts for the filter. I suggest making a drawing on cardboard and punching holes in it to store the bolts in the correct position. Some of the filter bolts also hold the valve body on.
Next disconnect the electrical connections on the bottom of the valve body. Be aware that the plastic plugs might be brittle and the retaining clips could break. If that happens you will probably need to use lock wire when you put them back together at the end.
![[Image: R34vb.jpg]](http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z226/Dean33GTST/R34vb.jpg)
Red-mounting bolts
Blue-Elec connections
Green-Filter bolts
Before you go any further, have a quick look and familiarise yourself with the selector, so you know how to get it back together later.
Referring to my picture, use the previous cardboard storage method and remove the remaining M6 valve body bolts and carefully lower the valve body. Be aware, more oil will spill out and there will be 3 springs that will drop out, you will need to replace one of the springs so try to keep track of their positions. Be careful, the valve body is quite heavy.
![[Image: AccSprings.jpg]](http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z226/Dean33GTST/AccSprings.jpg)
You will now have to remove the two middle accumulator pistons. They're quite tight and will need possibly working up and down before they pop out. If you are really struggling a pair of external circlip pliers opened up inside the piston should help to pull it out. Discard the two pistons and their springs.
Now fit the two core plugs in the empty accumulator pistons holes. Make sure you fit them in deep enough to allow clearance for the screws on the valve body to clear.
![[Image: 121120101046.jpg]](http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z226/Dean33GTST/121120101046.jpg)
The next bit is probably the most difficult part, and that is getting the valve body back up into position whilst making sure that the forward most spring remains in place. I struggled quite a bit, but an extra pair of hands would have saved me.
Bolt the valve body back on, be careful to make sure the selector is properly aligned or you won't be able to select any gears.
Clean and re-fit the filter and sump.
Refit the crossmember. Re-fill with oil, check for leaks and go enjoy.
As far as I'm aware the R33 box (non tiptronic) are very similer to mine and this would work on those boxes too. Certainly as part of the well known modded valve body kits, these core plugs are fitted in conjunction with them anyway.
The filter and mounting bolts may be slightly different on the earlier boxes, but the procedure is not significantly different and even though I'm an experienced mechanic, I would say a decent home mechanic who knows how to remove and re-fit bolts evenly
would have no problems doing this.
As usual, take all safety precautions and I can't be responsible for any damage/injury caused, even if it's just grazed knuckles.
[/quote]
Here's a brief "How to"
Tools required.
1/2" Ratchet and 12mm,14mm,19mm sockets and extention
3/8" Ratchet and 10mm socket and extension
Pliers
Rags
Drain tub
Jacks/Stands
Also required at least 6 litres of ATF, possibly more. And two 50mm diameter core plugs.
Start by jacking the car up or geting it on a ramp, you will need plenty of height and make sure that you support the car securely.
Using the 19mm socket, undo and drain the gearbox. Replace the plug afterwards, there will still be oil in the sump.
Using a jack, support the rear of the transmission and undo the four M8 nuts with the 12mm socket in the middle of the crossmember that mount to the transmission.
Now undo the four outer crossmember to body mounting bolts using the 14mm socket and remove the crossmember. This was necessary on my car to access the rear sump mounting bolts.
Now using the 10mm socket, undo and remove the Oil cooler pipe bracket retainers at the front of the sump and the M6 sump bolts. It will help to leave a couple in at the front and allow the rear of the sump to drop slightly first to let the remaining oil drain out.
After that has finished draining, remove the remaining bolts and manouevre the sump back and down out of the way, I had to ease it past the oil cooler pipes at the front of the sump.
Now undo and remove the M6 mounting bolts for the filter. I suggest making a drawing on cardboard and punching holes in it to store the bolts in the correct position. Some of the filter bolts also hold the valve body on.
Next disconnect the electrical connections on the bottom of the valve body. Be aware that the plastic plugs might be brittle and the retaining clips could break. If that happens you will probably need to use lock wire when you put them back together at the end.
Red-mounting bolts
Blue-Elec connections
Green-Filter bolts
Before you go any further, have a quick look and familiarise yourself with the selector, so you know how to get it back together later.
Referring to my picture, use the previous cardboard storage method and remove the remaining M6 valve body bolts and carefully lower the valve body. Be aware, more oil will spill out and there will be 3 springs that will drop out, you will need to replace one of the springs so try to keep track of their positions. Be careful, the valve body is quite heavy.
You will now have to remove the two middle accumulator pistons. They're quite tight and will need possibly working up and down before they pop out. If you are really struggling a pair of external circlip pliers opened up inside the piston should help to pull it out. Discard the two pistons and their springs.
Now fit the two core plugs in the empty accumulator pistons holes. Make sure you fit them in deep enough to allow clearance for the screws on the valve body to clear.
The next bit is probably the most difficult part, and that is getting the valve body back up into position whilst making sure that the forward most spring remains in place. I struggled quite a bit, but an extra pair of hands would have saved me.
Bolt the valve body back on, be careful to make sure the selector is properly aligned or you won't be able to select any gears.
Clean and re-fit the filter and sump.
Refit the crossmember. Re-fill with oil, check for leaks and go enjoy.
As far as I'm aware the R33 box (non tiptronic) are very similer to mine and this would work on those boxes too. Certainly as part of the well known modded valve body kits, these core plugs are fitted in conjunction with them anyway.
The filter and mounting bolts may be slightly different on the earlier boxes, but the procedure is not significantly different and even though I'm an experienced mechanic, I would say a decent home mechanic who knows how to remove and re-fit bolts evenly
would have no problems doing this.
As usual, take all safety precautions and I can't be responsible for any damage/injury caused, even if it's just grazed knuckles. [/quote]
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