Eaton M62 IS200 Supercharger "rebuild"
Eaton M62 IS200 Supercharger "rebuild"
I never found any decent info on rebuilding supercharger units.
So I thought I'd bother to document the tear down of my unit.
Firstly, after tearing this down a "complete rebuild" is not really possible.
This is due to the ball bearing races in the gearbox not being replaceable.
The bearings are "welded" in. Plus the seals in question are unobtainable...
The trouble is, my rotors were covered in oil from the gearbox. The bearings sitting on top of the oil seals - Good start
I am not responsible if you damage or "scrap" your unit.
Call this a guide on how not to rebuild a supercharger.
![[Image: 14257695_10153730583677117_7528366659228457807_o.jpg]](http://s261.photobucket.com/user/CANNYDOE/media/Facebook/JapCrap200/14257695_10153730583677117_7528366659228457807_o.jpg.html)
Start by putting 12V into the clutch/electromagnet to engage the pulley.
Giving enough to hold onto to undo the 7mm bolt in the middle of the clutch plate.
![[Image: 14231868_10153730583687117_8259187382354143929_o.jpg]](http://s261.photobucket.com/user/CANNYDOE/media/Facebook/JapCrap200/14231868_10153730583687117_8259187382354143929_o.jpg.html)
Pull the clutch plate off, dont drop the washers. They sit in the end of the spline on the clutch plate and act as spacers for the clutch & pulley to allow free rotation of the pulley when not engaged.
Next undo small 8mm bolt that retains the wiring for the electromagnet.
Then there are four TX20 headed screws inside the electromagnet - Undo these. and the electromagnet can be removed.
![[Image: 14195387_10153730583682117_4503387311829271484_o.jpg]](http://s261.photobucket.com/user/CANNYDOE/media/Facebook/JapCrap200/14195387_10153730583682117_4503387311829271484_o.jpg.html)
This is what you are left with.
DON'T FORGET TO DRAIN THE OIL.
Theres is a 10mm (iirc) bolt below right of the snout. This is your drain/fill plug.
Undo/remove all the 10mm black bolts around the edge.
With these out
You can remove the front plate/snout.
It may take persuasion - I used a trolley jack handle (flat end) and twisted it within a couple of small rectangular recesses around the casing.
![[Image: 14207804_10153730584022117_1185873008239514064_o.jpg]](http://s261.photobucket.com/user/CANNYDOE/media/Facebook/JapCrap200/14207804_10153730584022117_1185873008239514064_o.jpg.html)
You can now remove the rotor assembly & gears, by again prying the casings apart.
There will be a little resistance as the end of the rotor shafts are sat in a pair of needle rollers at the back of the main body.
Pull gently & slowly. you do not want the needle bearing to fall out of their cage, or clang the rotors into the main body - tolerances are tight.
![[Image: 14207645_10153730584037117_4932233705000587844_o.jpg]](http://s261.photobucket.com/user/CANNYDOE/media/Facebook/JapCrap200/14207645_10153730584037117_4932233705000587844_o.jpg.html)
At this stage any shop that rebuilds superchargers will replace the needle rollers in the main body with use of a hydraulic press. put the casings back together with a little sealent and add a new oil seal in the nose/snout.
This is where I should have stopped...
DannyStock
10-08-2023, 01:39 PM #1Hi,
I never found any decent info on rebuilding supercharger units.
So I thought I'd bother to document the tear down of my unit.
Firstly, after tearing this down a "complete rebuild" is not really possible.
This is due to the ball bearing races in the gearbox not being replaceable.
The bearings are "welded" in. Plus the seals in question are unobtainable...
The trouble is, my rotors were covered in oil from the gearbox. The bearings sitting on top of the oil seals - Good start
I am not responsible if you damage or "scrap" your unit.
Call this a guide on how not to rebuild a supercharger.
Start by putting 12V into the clutch/electromagnet to engage the pulley.
Giving enough to hold onto to undo the 7mm bolt in the middle of the clutch plate.
Pull the clutch plate off, dont drop the washers. They sit in the end of the spline on the clutch plate and act as spacers for the clutch & pulley to allow free rotation of the pulley when not engaged.
Next undo small 8mm bolt that retains the wiring for the electromagnet.
Then there are four TX20 headed screws inside the electromagnet - Undo these. and the electromagnet can be removed.
This is what you are left with.
DON'T FORGET TO DRAIN THE OIL.
Theres is a 10mm (iirc) bolt below right of the snout. This is your drain/fill plug.
Undo/remove all the 10mm black bolts around the edge.
With these out
You can remove the front plate/snout.
It may take persuasion - I used a trolley jack handle (flat end) and twisted it within a couple of small rectangular recesses around the casing.
You can now remove the rotor assembly & gears, by again prying the casings apart.
There will be a little resistance as the end of the rotor shafts are sat in a pair of needle rollers at the back of the main body.
Pull gently & slowly. you do not want the needle bearing to fall out of their cage, or clang the rotors into the main body - tolerances are tight.
At this stage any shop that rebuilds superchargers will replace the needle rollers in the main body with use of a hydraulic press. put the casings back together with a little sealent and add a new oil seal in the nose/snout.
This is where I should have stopped...
I pulled the drive gears off with a little heat and a 3 leg puller.
They are swaged/push fitted on.
If you must remove these mark their position in relation to each other making sure it all goes back square.
From here you can see the bearings behind them.
Two single ball bearing races.
I other S/C units these are replaceable - In this unit they are welded in.
I then removed the bearing plate from the rotor shafts.
First taping the rotors together to keep them in situ.
This was again a case of a 3 leg puller.
![[Image: 14258183_10153746685652117_6080718780023511133_o.jpg]](http://s261.photobucket.com/user/CANNYDOE/media/Facebook/JapCrap200/14258183_10153746685652117_6080718780023511133_o.jpg.html)
These are the rotors.
As you can see they are teflon coated and these are in particularly good condition.
So Sod it I pressed the bearings out.
![[Image: 14352402_10153746685662117_4344113186831290470_o.jpg]](http://s261.photobucket.com/user/CANNYDOE/media/Facebook/JapCrap200/14352402_10153746685662117_4344113186831290470_o.jpg.html)
What looks like knackered piston rings is the weld that retains the bearings in place.
The interesting bit that stopped me in my tracks is the seals.
They seem to be PTFE metal cased seals.
Thy are all different sizes.
The nose/snout is 16x28.5x7
In the bearing plate they are 22x35x7 & 22x33.5x7
All .5 sizes are unobtainable off shelf.
The nearest spec would be Viton rubber double lip seal. which can be obtained in 22x35x7
But both other seals are no available.
No-one who deals with rebuilding superchargers replaces these "they're an eaton only part".
Nose/snout seal;
![[Image: 14352121_10153746685772117_1797571726902343198_o.jpg]](http://s261.photobucket.com/user/CANNYDOE/media/Facebook/JapCrap200/14352121_10153746685772117_1797571726902343198_o.jpg.html)
Bearing plate seals;
![[Image: 14310483_10153746685642117_8834416605492945986_o.jpg]](http://s261.photobucket.com/user/CANNYDOE/media/Facebook/JapCrap200/14310483_10153746685642117_8834416605492945986_o.jpg.html)
So there we have it
Hopefully this may have some use to someone or at least satisfy some curiosity.
Danny.
DannyStock
10-08-2023, 01:53 PM #2However I carried on...
I pulled the drive gears off with a little heat and a 3 leg puller.
They are swaged/push fitted on.
If you must remove these mark their position in relation to each other making sure it all goes back square.
From here you can see the bearings behind them.
Two single ball bearing races.
I other S/C units these are replaceable - In this unit they are welded in.
I then removed the bearing plate from the rotor shafts.
First taping the rotors together to keep them in situ.
This was again a case of a 3 leg puller.
These are the rotors.
As you can see they are teflon coated and these are in particularly good condition.
So Sod it I pressed the bearings out.
What looks like knackered piston rings is the weld that retains the bearings in place.
The interesting bit that stopped me in my tracks is the seals.
They seem to be PTFE metal cased seals.
Thy are all different sizes.
The nose/snout is 16x28.5x7
In the bearing plate they are 22x35x7 & 22x33.5x7
All .5 sizes are unobtainable off shelf.
The nearest spec would be Viton rubber double lip seal. which can be obtained in 22x35x7
But both other seals are no available.
No-one who deals with rebuilding superchargers replaces these "they're an eaton only part".
Nose/snout seal;
Bearing plate seals;
So there we have it
Hopefully this may have some use to someone or at least satisfy some curiosity.
Danny.
![[Image: LexuS-Copy.jpg]](http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h204/Sparkystav/LexuS-Copy.jpg)
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
Sparkystav
10-08-2023, 05:32 PM #3great write up mate! very useful!
Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.
![[Image: FB_IMG_1474048273787_zpsnbfq6a3s.jpg]](http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee440/davis5835/Mobile%20Uploads/FB_IMG_1474048273787_zpsnbfq6a3s.jpg)
The only truly replaceable parts are the needle rollers at the back of the main body and the clutch/clutch bearing.
Tolerances between the rotors and main body are 15 thou at best - it's all very snug if you are intending to replace the needle rollers.
Imo, just re-grease them unless they're shgged.
Cheers for the praise.
Might save someone the grief somewhere down the line.
Danny.
DannyStock
11-08-2023, 11:38 AM #6In hindsight I would'nt bother taking them apart other than to give it all a good clean.
The only truly replaceable parts are the needle rollers at the back of the main body and the clutch/clutch bearing.
Tolerances between the rotors and main body are 15 thou at best - it's all very snug if you are intending to replace the needle rollers.
Imo, just re-grease them unless they're shgged.
Cheers for the praise.
Might save someone the grief somewhere down the line.
Danny.
I wouldn't recommend disconning the rotors from the faceplate as a DIY task as the rotors are timed. You will.end up.with a sc that doesn't pump any air or one that will chew itself to bits.
I don't have the links for parts anymore but there was a Danish guy that worked in a garage that did a rebuild a few years ago.
I wrote a strip down and rebuild years ago. The rear needle bearings are easily available and just need tapping out with a punch and hammer. Front main bearings replacement kits are available in the USA as is the snout seal.
I wouldn't recommend disconning the rotors from the faceplate as a DIY task as the rotors are timed. You will.end up.with a sc that doesn't pump any air or one that will chew itself to bits.
I don't have the links for parts anymore but there was a Danish guy that worked in a garage that did a rebuild a few years ago.
I understand the rotors are timed, but given the above it was going to be a parts donor anyway.
Shame about the lack of links for parts.
DannyStock
23-08-2023, 02:30 PM #8I'd diagnosed this one as terminally ill with leaking seals - I had no luck finding any that would do the job. Only thoughts I had were to have the casing machined 0.5mm larger dia. to accept an "off-shelf" viton seal...
I understand the rotors are timed, but given the above it was going to be a parts donor anyway.
Shame about the lack of links for parts.
Me and a friend of mine did this a couple of months back. Our findings:
You can get custom seals made, double lip metal casing PTFE. Not very cheap though... But doable.
As long as you mark the rotors' relation to each other, you'll be fine - they are balanced on their own but also in relation to each other. So this is important.
The bearings have to be reinstalled with the strongest bearing glue you can find. The more expensive it is, the better. This will be the difference between success and complete failure.
The bearings themselves are cheap, so makes sense to change them - the new ones are sealed, so you have to remove the caps, so oil can enter them freely.
When reassembling you can insert a couple of sheets of paper between the rotors to keep them timed correctly and avoid them touching when turning. This is very important and again may be the difference between success and complete failure
When reinstalling the rotors you have to watch out for the gap between the rotors and front casing - it has to be around 0.05mm or so. You don't want them to rub on the front wall but don't want them touching the rear either - and the rotors are always pushed backwards when boosting. So you want them to be as close to the front as possible without touching.
Oh, assembling the charger core (front bearings, seals, rotors) has to be done on a press. You don't want to put unnecessary stress on these components.
Everything else is straightforward and done easily in the shed in 15 minutes. Even the rear bearings can be replaced without a press, but with a couple of sockets and a hammer - tap old ones out and tap new ones in.
All this sounds very hard and it is, but it is doable. Just requires patience, courage and sometimes a bit of luck. And as these chargers become older, this topic will become more and more popular...
Great writeup!
Me and a friend of mine did this a couple of months back. Our findings:
You can get custom seals made, double lip metal casing PTFE. Not very cheap though... But doable.
As long as you mark the rotors' relation to each other, you'll be fine - they are balanced on their own but also in relation to each other. So this is important.
The bearings have to be reinstalled with the strongest bearing glue you can find. The more expensive it is, the better. This will be the difference between success and complete failure.
The bearings themselves are cheap, so makes sense to change them - the new ones are sealed, so you have to remove the caps, so oil can enter them freely.
When reassembling you can insert a couple of sheets of paper between the rotors to keep them timed correctly and avoid them touching when turning. This is very important and again may be the difference between success and complete failure
When reinstalling the rotors you have to watch out for the gap between the rotors and front casing - it has to be around 0.05mm or so. You don't want them to rub on the front wall but don't want them touching the rear either - and the rotors are always pushed backwards when boosting. So you want them to be as close to the front as possible without touching.
Oh, assembling the charger core (front bearings, seals, rotors) has to be done on a press. You don't want to put unnecessary stress on these components.
Everything else is straightforward and done easily in the shed in 15 minutes. Even the rear bearings can be replaced without a press, but with a couple of sockets and a hammer - tap old ones out and tap new ones in.
All this sounds very hard and it is, but it is doable. Just requires patience, courage and sometimes a bit of luck. And as these chargers become older, this topic will become more and more popular...
Is it not possible to just undo the 10mm bolts and slide the whole rotor assembly out of the casing?
Or am I missing something?
CrocodileHunter
24-02-2024, 08:03 AM #10To change the needle bearings do you actually need to remove the clutch and pulley?
Is it not possible to just undo the 10mm bolts and slide the whole rotor assembly out of the casing?
Or am I missing something?
2 Guest(s)
2 Guest(s)
Views 24,149
Last Post by
Views 777
Last Post by
Views 1,990
Last Post by
Views 837
Last Post by
Views 2,437
Last Post by
Views 1,070
Last Post by
Views 797
Last Post by