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Eaton M62 IS200 Supercharger "rebuild"

Eaton M62 IS200 Supercharger "rebuild"

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DannyStock
Member
68
25-02-2024, 12:07 PM
#11
Been a while since i stripped it all down but I don't see any reason why you couldn't leave the clutch & pulley on.

The clutch plate is bolted to the primary rotor shaft which will come out with the rotors & gearbox.
Would probably just make it a little fiddlier to split it all from the main body.
Would still want to drain the oil first though.
DannyStock
25-02-2024, 12:07 PM #11

Been a while since i stripped it all down but I don't see any reason why you couldn't leave the clutch & pulley on.

The clutch plate is bolted to the primary rotor shaft which will come out with the rotors & gearbox.
Would probably just make it a little fiddlier to split it all from the main body.
Would still want to drain the oil first though.

52
21-03-2024, 03:02 PM
#12
Thanks that's what i thought.

Replacing the needle rollers and changing the oil should be fairly straightforward then really?
CrocodileHunter
21-03-2024, 03:02 PM #12

Thanks that's what i thought.

Replacing the needle rollers and changing the oil should be fairly straightforward then really?

P.Nicolov
Junior Member
13
21-03-2024, 04:16 PM
#13
Well, technically the pulley and clutch don't have to come out for the main casing to be separated from the rest, but it'll be extremely fiddly to loosen 2-3 of the bolts holding everything together. And removing the clutch and pulley is literally a 30 second job - 1x 8mm bolt and 1x snap ring. It doesn't make sense to leave them on.

As for the needle bearings, it's a straight forward job - tap the old ones out from behind, tap the new ones in from the front, watching out for the depth the old ones sat at.

You can do everything in 10-15 minutes tops.
P.Nicolov
21-03-2024, 04:16 PM #13

Well, technically the pulley and clutch don't have to come out for the main casing to be separated from the rest, but it'll be extremely fiddly to loosen 2-3 of the bolts holding everything together. And removing the clutch and pulley is literally a 30 second job - 1x 8mm bolt and 1x snap ring. It doesn't make sense to leave them on.

As for the needle bearings, it's a straight forward job - tap the old ones out from behind, tap the new ones in from the front, watching out for the depth the old ones sat at.

You can do everything in 10-15 minutes tops.

Wayne
Senior Member
607
21-03-2024, 04:21 PM
#14
I need to refresh mine, but I just aint got the balls even though it seems fairly straight forward.
Wayne
21-03-2024, 04:21 PM #14

I need to refresh mine, but I just aint got the balls even though it seems fairly straight forward.

52
21-03-2024, 04:30 PM
#15
I wish I'd done mine before i put it on the car. It didn't look too bad really there was just some very minor marks on the rotor tips where there must be a little bit or play in the rear bearings
CrocodileHunter
21-03-2024, 04:30 PM #15

I wish I'd done mine before i put it on the car. It didn't look too bad really there was just some very minor marks on the rotor tips where there must be a little bit or play in the rear bearings

Wayne
Senior Member
607
21-03-2024, 04:36 PM
#16
I'm on the hunt for another cheap one so I can have a play with it. Make that one nice and swap em over. Mines scoring at the back so the bearings are on there last legs. As you say, shoud have done it beforehand, but excitement took over.
Wayne
21-03-2024, 04:36 PM #16

I'm on the hunt for another cheap one so I can have a play with it. Make that one nice and swap em over. Mines scoring at the back so the bearings are on there last legs. As you say, shoud have done it beforehand, but excitement took over.

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