My Toyota MR2 build thread - 1994 GT-S
My Toyota MR2 build thread - 1994 GT-S
I will do a full guide to polybushing the '2 once I've done the back end but here are a few pics:
![[Image: box.jpg]](http://theshado.ws/images/imoc/polybush/box.jpg)
![[Image: bushes.jpg]](http://theshado.ws/images/imoc/polybush/bushes.jpg)
![[Image: bushburning.jpg]](http://theshado.ws/images/imoc/polybush/bushburning.jpg)
![[Image: frontArmsOffCarAfter.jpg]](http://theshado.ws/images/imoc/polybush/frontArmsOffCarAfter.jpg)
Right!! The day before the WIM meet I decided to set about polybushing my car - it would need a complete alignment after this job so why not take the chance on winning a free one at the meet, I thought. Unfortunately I didn't make it over to my unit before about 2pm and then finished up about 3am the day of the meet, having only done the front end!! I had some help from Dan towards the end of the day but I have quite a few bent front suspension arms it turns out, which played havoc with my plans. Getting them off the car was quite difficult and getting them back on was even harder!!
I will do a full guide to polybushing the '2 once I've done the back end but here are a few pics:
JDM black headlights, rear fog light conversion, JDM size number plates, JDM rear number plate garnish, JDM dash tray, wind deflectors, TRD body kit, white TRD gearknob, TTE lowering springs, TTE ARB's, K&N air filter, stainless steel A/C rings, stainless clock cover, radiator cooling panel, LED side light bulbs, blue reversing bulbs, fan washer jets, clear side repeaters, PIAA silicone wipers, Alpine IDA-X200 headunit, 17 x 8 et40 OZ Ultraleggera with 225/45/17 Toyo Proxes T-1R
Very nice car you've got John.
JDM black headlights, rear fog light conversion, JDM size number plates, JDM rear number plate garnish, JDM dash tray, wind deflectors, TRD body kit, white TRD gearknob, TTE lowering springs, TTE ARB's, K&N air filter, stainless steel A/C rings, stainless clock cover, radiator cooling panel, LED side light bulbs, blue reversing bulbs, fan washer jets, clear side repeaters, PIAA silicone wipers, Alpine IDA-X200 headunit, 17 x 8 et40 OZ Ultraleggera with 225/45/17 Toyo Proxes T-1R
Inner sleeve of this bush:
![[Image: brokenBushBefore.jpg]](http://theshado.ws/images/imoc/polybush/brokenBushBefore.jpg)
As it came out:
![[Image: brokenBushAfter.jpg]](http://theshado.ws/images/imoc/polybush/brokenBushAfter.jpg)
This arm is deformed, you can see a metal lip around the right hand edge which shouldn't be visible - the cup is squashed into an oval shape which made getting the bush in quite a challenge!
![[Image: deformedArm.jpg]](http://theshado.ws/images/imoc/polybush/deformedArm.jpg)
And the bolt that went through it...
![[Image: bentBolt.jpg]](http://theshado.ws/images/imoc/polybush/bentBolt.jpg)
The bent bits:
Inner sleeve of this bush:
As it came out:
This arm is deformed, you can see a metal lip around the right hand edge which shouldn't be visible - the cup is squashed into an oval shape which made getting the bush in quite a challenge!
And the bolt that went through it...
My Garage
Supra Build Thread
' Nothing feels quick when your other car has a 1000bhp - JamieP
Quote:A Supra without a spoiler is like a Gypsy's dog without a Nob.
Dan_Turism0
07-06-2017, 12:39 AM #425I have to say it wasn't too much fun at the time lol, Look forward to round 2 though I mean how hard can it be to do the rears :cursing:
My Garage
Supra Build Thread
' Nothing feels quick when your other car has a 1000bhp - JamieP
Quote:A Supra without a spoiler is like a Gypsy's dog without a Nob.
However prior to leaving I had to emergency stop and the amp board in the front shifted about a bit, shorting out part of the circuit breaker on to the bonnet. This blew the 60A AGU fuse in the frunk and welded the breaker terminal to the bonnet!!
I have one of these:
![[Image: 6320.jpg]](http://www.woofersetc.com/images/products/6320.jpg)
Which is rated higher than the fuse and is really only there to allow me to quickly and safely disconnect the power cap from the car supply prior to removing the board. However there is an optional 'competition' insulating cover available which doesn't normally ship with the breaker:
![[Image: scbcov_m.jpg]](http://www.discountcarstereo.com/images/stinger/scbcov_m.jpg)
I couldn't find anywhere selling them in the UK when I was in a rush packing last week so I replaced the fuse, covered everything with electrical tape, and ordered one off US eBay. It turned up when I got back from Germany but needs some modifying. It's designed for the wiring to exit vertically from the circuit breaker's terminals but mine exit horizontally. Bit of filing and should be fine!
Next on the list is turbo rebuild and refreshing the inlet tract (cleaning all the old oil out of everything between the air filter and the head, replacing all gaskets, etc) while the turbo is off. I'm going to get the injectors cleaned and balanced as well, and then we should be all good for a mild boost increase
As you probably saw from my other posts, I took the MR2 to central Germany and back for a big European meeting. It didn't miss a beat with the exception of me flattening the battery by leaving a 400W inverter running off it :lol: and I'm really happy with it - that's Le Mans and Duderstadt within 2 months of each other, totalling over 2100 miles!
However prior to leaving I had to emergency stop and the amp board in the front shifted about a bit, shorting out part of the circuit breaker on to the bonnet. This blew the 60A AGU fuse in the frunk and welded the breaker terminal to the bonnet!!
I have one of these:
Which is rated higher than the fuse and is really only there to allow me to quickly and safely disconnect the power cap from the car supply prior to removing the board. However there is an optional 'competition' insulating cover available which doesn't normally ship with the breaker:
I couldn't find anywhere selling them in the UK when I was in a rush packing last week so I replaced the fuse, covered everything with electrical tape, and ordered one off US eBay. It turned up when I got back from Germany but needs some modifying. It's designed for the wiring to exit vertically from the circuit breaker's terminals but mine exit horizontally. Bit of filing and should be fine!
Next on the list is turbo rebuild and refreshing the inlet tract (cleaning all the old oil out of everything between the air filter and the head, replacing all gaskets, etc) while the turbo is off. I'm going to get the injectors cleaned and balanced as well, and then we should be all good for a mild boost increase
Take off and clean up all old oil and crud deposits from inlet pipes, chargecooler, inlet manifold, etc. Aircon VSV probably needs doing as well as maybe the driver's side breather hose, MAP sensor feed and maybe brake booster?
Oil leaks!! My distributor is getting oil inside the cap somehow and I think maybe the sump or oil pan may not have sealed properly on driver's side. Think there was fresh oil there.
Do a bit of colour coordination in the engine bay - not sure how far to take this yet.
Re-wrap the underside of the chargecooler after the old heat wrap caught fire!
Take the injectors out and send them to AFR tuning to get them cleaned and flow tested nshit. 4+yrs of supermarket fuel and 16yrs of use, they could probably do with it!
Turbo rebuilt and the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe ceramic coated. That way I should be able to run without heatshields as well as it stopping rust and improving gas flow + spool times, and reducing engine bay heat.
Put it all back together with new manifold gaskets, studs, nuts etc. I think I have found a place that does heat insulating gaskets for the rev3 inlet so I am waiting to hear back from them to decide whether to use that or just a standard Toyota one.
Car is off the road for August to get some bits and bobs done. This what I hope to get done in time for JAE:
Take off and clean up all old oil and crud deposits from inlet pipes, chargecooler, inlet manifold, etc. Aircon VSV probably needs doing as well as maybe the driver's side breather hose, MAP sensor feed and maybe brake booster?
Oil leaks!! My distributor is getting oil inside the cap somehow and I think maybe the sump or oil pan may not have sealed properly on driver's side. Think there was fresh oil there.
Do a bit of colour coordination in the engine bay - not sure how far to take this yet.
Re-wrap the underside of the chargecooler after the old heat wrap caught fire!
Take the injectors out and send them to AFR tuning to get them cleaned and flow tested nshit. 4+yrs of supermarket fuel and 16yrs of use, they could probably do with it!
Turbo rebuilt and the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe ceramic coated. That way I should be able to run without heatshields as well as it stopping rust and improving gas flow + spool times, and reducing engine bay heat.
Put it all back together with new manifold gaskets, studs, nuts etc. I think I have found a place that does heat insulating gaskets for the rev3 inlet so I am waiting to hear back from them to decide whether to use that or just a standard Toyota one.
Have also just bought a phenolic inlet manifold gasket. This acts as a heat insulator between the head and the inlet manifold, preventing heat transfer. This in turn means the inlet manifold and throttlebody should stay cool and not heat up the inlet charge as it travels through.
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