My little project - IS200 Turbo
My little project - IS200 Turbo
Thanks Dean, yeah I've been keeping an eye on eBay, they do come up on their pretty often. Sometimes at stupid prices and sometimes more reasonable. Got my eye on one at the mo.
A small mod that I did the other day. I'd been doing a fair bit of driving in the dark on country roads, and it kept reminding me how pathetic the full-beam halogens are compared to my HIDs on dipped.
So I got myself some HIDs for the full beam, off eBay for £29.49 including shipping.
You can see the black slimline ballast, sitting on top of my (non-slimline) existing ballast for the dipped headlamps :
Here's the finished result on one side. Both the main beams and dipped are supposed to be 6000K. The main beams look slightly more blue than the dipped, though not nearly as blue as this pic makes them look. You can see the contrast to the other side where it still had a halogen in it. This picture also brought to my attention the fact that my nearside LED "lightbrow" has a small failed section in it !
Looks good mate.
I had a HID pack fail on me so down to just dips on HID again
One of the long-outstanding jobs to do on my car, since the conversion, is sort out a little glitch in the way the engine runs. Normally it's fine, but the only problem comes under a very light throttle, e.g. when you're trying to cruise along at 30 in a road with a load of speed cameras, or in traffic or similar. It seems to be when the car is totally off-boost, at low throttle openings and 2000-3000 revs or so. The engine goes slightly rough. It's not a major problem, but it's always bugged me, and given my aims of my turbo conversion included driveability and making it easy to use as a daily driver, I've meant to get this sorted for a while.
Some time back I took the car to a local mapper who has extensive experience with the e-Manage Ultimate, to get his opinion. I posted all about this back in this post of my thread.
In summary, he thinks the problem is the stock ECU "fighting" with the e-Manage in those conditions, i.e. the e-Manage is trying to do one thing, but the stock ECU detects what's going on and tries to override it. This is going to be when the stock ECU is in "closed loop" mode, rather than in "open loop" when it'll not try and do much and the e-Manage will have free rein.
I decided to have a good look at the wiring of my e-Manage, so I could better understand it myself, and also to double-check how it had been wired up. This is pretty complicated, since there are a lot of wires involved on the Ultimate, but I eventually figured it out (and thanks to Stav for answering my questions along the way).
I discovered that a couple of the wires from the harness hadn't been connected up that I would have expected to be. These are the wires for the cam angle and crank angle. Speaking to Ed at Fusion Motorsport though, he doesn't think these will be making any real difference, since my map is setup to get the timing information from the ignition connections. My concern had been if it was using just the rpm wire to get the timing information, which is allegedly not that reliable.
I'm going to connect these two wires up anyway. If anything, it'll just give better information for datalogging.
Something else that I discovered, which I didn't really like, was that several other unused wires (which aren't that important) were just rattling around in my ECU box, with their bare terminals not protected. It was probably having no effect, but I taped up all those electrical connectors just to make sure there couldn't be anything weird going on if one bare wire touched another.
I have an O2 simulator now, which I bought from eBay (in addition to the existing simulator that I wired in to replace the after-cat sensor, to get rid of an error code). I have a session booked at Fusion on Monday (1st).
What we plan to do is to install the simulator in place of the one remaining stock O2 sensor. This we hope will fool the stock ECU into thinking that everything is just running normally and that it can just stick to its own built-in map. Then the e-Manage will hopefully be able to do what it wants without the stock ECU being able to notice and interfere.
We'll take the car for a drive with the simulator installed, and do some quick-and-dirty on-road mapping to check that it does seem to be helping the rough running problem. If it does look good, then it'll be going on the dyno at Surrey Rolling Road (virtually next door to Fusion) for a full re-map, just so everything is setup properly with the simulator in place. If it doesn't help, then we won't bother with the re-map, and I guess it will be back to the drawing board !
For info, here are the pin-outs and wire colours (which aren't in the manual !) for the e-Manage Ultimate harness :
pin#. Description - Color
========================================================
1. Ignition Input Signal CH6 - Light Blue / White
2. Ignition Input Signal CH5 - Pink / White
3. Ignition Input Signal CH4 - Purple / White
4. Ignition Input Signal CH2 - Orange / White
5. Ignition Input Signal CH1 - Dark Blue / White
6. Ignition Output Signal CH6 - Light Blue / Black
7. Ignition Output Signal CH5 - Pink / Black
8. Ignition Output Signal CH4 - Purple / Black
9. Ignition Output Signal CH3 - Yellow / Black
10.Ignition Input Signal CH3 - Yellow / White
11.Ignition Output Signal CH2 - Orange / Black
12.Ignition Output Signal CH1 - Dark Blue / Black
13.Airflow (Frequency) Input/VTEC Input - Light Blue
14.Airflow2 (Voltage) Input/VTEC Output - Yellow
15.Airflow1 (Voltage) Input - White
16.TPS Input - Gray
17.Injector Input Signal CH1 - Dark Blue / Red
18.Injector Input Signal CH2 - Orange / Red
19.Injector Input Signal CH3 - Yellow / Red
20.Injector Input Signal CH4 - Purple / Red
21.Airflow (Frequency) Output / VTM Output - Purple
22.Airflow1 (Voltage) Output - Green
23.RPM Input - Brown
24.Ground (ECU Ground) - Black
25.Ignition Power (ECU Power) - Red
26.Injector Input Signal CH7 / A - White / Red
27.Injector Input Signal CH8 / B - Green / Red
28.Injector Input Signal CH5 / C - Pink / Red
29.Injector Input Signal CH6 / C - Light Blue / Red
30.Injector Ground (Sensor Ground) - Black / Red (Red appears brownish tint)
31.Analog (Voltage) Input - White / Gray
32.Knock Signal 1 / Water Temp Signal - Dark Blue / Yellow
33.Crank Angle Signal Input - Gray / White
34.Injector Output Signal CH1 - Dark Blue / Gray
35.Injector Output Signal CH2 - Orange / Gray
36.Injector Output Signal CH3 - Yellow / Gray
37.Analog (Voltage) Output - Green / Gray
38.Knock Signal 2 / Intake Temp Signal - Purple / Yellow
39.CAM Angle Signal Input - Gray / Black
40.Vehicle Speed Signal Output - Brown / Yellow
41.Vehicle Speed Signal Input - Light Blue / Yellow
42.Injector Output Signal CH4 - Purple / Gray
43.Injector Output Signal CH5 - Pink / Gray
44.Injector Output Signal CH6 - Light Blue / Gray
The cam and crank connectors are pins 33 and 39, and these are the ones I'm going to connect up.
Pins 13, 14, 21, 26,27, 40 and 41 aren't used/needed on the 1G-FE engine.
Pins 31 and 37 I found were connected to the throttle input. Which seemed very odd (they're for analog output, and can potentially override the throttle input), but Ed checked and the map that can use those pins hasn't been setup.
Pins 32 and 38 aren't connected either, but these are basically optional (either the knock sensors, or air intake temp and water temp).
toxo I'd be a bit wary of running with no lambda sensor...
Quote:did you ever get anywhere with connecting the wideband to the emanage? Or have I misunderstood something somewhere
toxo I'd be a bit wary of running with no lambda sensor...
Quote:did you ever get anywhere with connecting the wideband to the emanage? Or have I misunderstood something somewhere
The point of the lambda sensor is to fine tune the AFR by measuring unburnt fuel coming out of the combustion chambers, so with a simulator on there the ECU is always going to think the AFR is fine even if it's totally wrong (which you will still see via your AFR gauge). With the sensor connected the ECU should notice and do something about it, whereas with a simulator in there it will just carry on as though nothing's wrong. And if you do notice it being wrong via the wideband gauge what can you do about it other than pull over and stop driving? It's not like you can lean out the injectors while you're driving? Unless like I said I'm missing something (like the e-manage not being connected to the lambda sensor or similar)?
The e-Manage isn't connected to the lambda sensor at the moment. I dug out my notes to check what the guy said when I asked him about connecting the wideband to the e-Manage, and he said it was optional but basically it wouldn't really help other than just forcing it into open loop all the time.
Yeah the stock ECU will think everything is ok, even if it's not, with a simulator installed. But hopefully the map would be setup well enough that the fuelling would be correct anyway ? If the stock ECU is having to adjust things, then the e-Manage map wouldn't be right ? Feel free to tell me I'm talking rubbish :biggrin: