JapCarForum Car Manufacturers Lexus/Toyota IS200 / IS300 / SPORTCROSS / Altezza Heater Problems

Heater Problems

Heater Problems

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James S
Posting Freak
1,240
26-09-2018, 09:51 AM
#1
My car is shocking at the min, everything seems to be breaking or wearing out!

New problem has started and I am a bit stumped with it. I recently replaced the thermostat in the cooling system because the car wasn't reaching temperature properly. New thermostat fixed that, but since then my internal heater hasn't worked properly. Only half my vents (drivers side) are blowing warm air through. Even the centre vent is half warm half cold!

I also have a air lock in the radiator system, I can hear the bubbles moving about when I set off. Would this be causing my internal heater problems??

Help! Its too cold at the min!
James S
26-09-2018, 09:51 AM #1

My car is shocking at the min, everything seems to be breaking or wearing out!

New problem has started and I am a bit stumped with it. I recently replaced the thermostat in the cooling system because the car wasn't reaching temperature properly. New thermostat fixed that, but since then my internal heater hasn't worked properly. Only half my vents (drivers side) are blowing warm air through. Even the centre vent is half warm half cold!

I also have a air lock in the radiator system, I can hear the bubbles moving about when I set off. Would this be causing my internal heater problems??

Help! Its too cold at the min!

reco2k
Senior Member
404
26-09-2018, 10:05 AM
#2
If you have an air lock then yes that is most likely the cause of the problem, best idea is to let it cool down, take of the radiator cap and then start the engine and then run it until it is warm pumping both the pipes intermitantly to help it bleed through.
Then top up the radiator. It also helps to have the heaters on full whilst doing this to get the heating system running as well.
reco2k
26-09-2018, 10:05 AM #2

If you have an air lock then yes that is most likely the cause of the problem, best idea is to let it cool down, take of the radiator cap and then start the engine and then run it until it is warm pumping both the pipes intermitantly to help it bleed through.
Then top up the radiator. It also helps to have the heaters on full whilst doing this to get the heating system running as well.

FirebirdPhil
Posting Freak
7,101
26-09-2018, 10:06 AM
#3
Yes the air lock will cause problems like that, its a PITA to get rid of also. But at least you know what the likely cause could be.

"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"
FirebirdPhil
26-09-2018, 10:06 AM #3

Yes the air lock will cause problems like that, its a PITA to get rid of also. But at least you know what the likely cause could be.


"Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But, rather to skid in sideways........
totally worn out and broken, shouting 'Holy ****, WHAT A RIDE!'"

FunkMasterJay
Member
160
26-09-2018, 10:10 AM
#4
Hey mate. Start the car with the reservoir topped up, heaters on full blast and the rad cap open. Keep pumping the bottom hose and eventually the air will come out. keep an eye on the rad level and top up if necessary. Make sure car is on a slight incline.

Had this issue last week.
J
FunkMasterJay
26-09-2018, 10:10 AM #4

Hey mate. Start the car with the reservoir topped up, heaters on full blast and the rad cap open. Keep pumping the bottom hose and eventually the air will come out. keep an eye on the rad level and top up if necessary. Make sure car is on a slight incline.

Had this issue last week.
J

James S
Posting Freak
1,240
26-09-2018, 10:22 AM
#5
Thanks everyone! I thought that what yo have suggested would work, but didn't want to run the car with the rad cap off, as I have never done it before and didn't know what would happen when it got hot! But will give this a try at work tomorrow, got some ramps to get the nose up in the air too. Smile
James S
26-09-2018, 10:22 AM #5

Thanks everyone! I thought that what yo have suggested would work, but didn't want to run the car with the rad cap off, as I have never done it before and didn't know what would happen when it got hot! But will give this a try at work tomorrow, got some ramps to get the nose up in the air too. Smile

rob
Senior Member
720
26-09-2018, 10:56 AM
#6
Its easy to do. The sound you can hear is prob from the heater matrix not from the engine. Run it with the cap off FROM COLD. do not remove the cap from a hot engine, you will hurt yourself. Nose slightly up helps a lot.
rob
26-09-2018, 10:56 AM #6

Its easy to do. The sound you can hear is prob from the heater matrix not from the engine. Run it with the cap off FROM COLD. do not remove the cap from a hot engine, you will hurt yourself. Nose slightly up helps a lot.

Phil01
Posting Freak
2,004
26-09-2018, 11:24 AM
#7
When peolle say have the heater on full blast that does not mean the fan speed, just the temp control to max. seem so many people turn the fan on full blast, all that does is take heat away from the coolant and takes twice as long to get up to temp.
James if the above dont work then you may have a servo flap fault but do the obvious first.

When you say centre vent is half hot and half cold do you mean cold air from one vent and warm from the other one or just luke warm from both??

sent from my Android SGS 2

1990 Eunos Roadster in Mariner DU blue
Cobalt cat back, Decat pipe, 15in Red Rota GT3 alloys, Toyo tyres, Lowered on Coil overs, Red anti roll bars, 14degree timing mod, white dash kit, illuminated side marker lights,
Halo ring headlights, OEM windblocker, Bluetooth streaming HU, Blue leather handbrake and gear lever gaitor, Centre brake/tail light mod, Blue velour door cards, Polished cam cover, Polished front strut bar, 4xheadrest speakers, JDM floor mats, Suede semi dish steering wheel,
Phil01
26-09-2018, 11:24 AM #7

When peolle say have the heater on full blast that does not mean the fan speed, just the temp control to max. seem so many people turn the fan on full blast, all that does is take heat away from the coolant and takes twice as long to get up to temp.
James if the above dont work then you may have a servo flap fault but do the obvious first.

When you say centre vent is half hot and half cold do you mean cold air from one vent and warm from the other one or just luke warm from both??

sent from my Android SGS 2


1990 Eunos Roadster in Mariner DU blue
Cobalt cat back, Decat pipe, 15in Red Rota GT3 alloys, Toyo tyres, Lowered on Coil overs, Red anti roll bars, 14degree timing mod, white dash kit, illuminated side marker lights,
Halo ring headlights, OEM windblocker, Bluetooth streaming HU, Blue leather handbrake and gear lever gaitor, Centre brake/tail light mod, Blue velour door cards, Polished cam cover, Polished front strut bar, 4xheadrest speakers, JDM floor mats, Suede semi dish steering wheel,

James S
Posting Freak
1,240
26-09-2018, 01:33 PM
#8
Cold air from one and hot from the other.
And I have had the car up to temperature when I have tried every setting possible.
Yeah I was worried it might be a servo fault. Going to try sort the airlock tomorrow, see if that's helps. Smile
James S
26-09-2018, 01:33 PM #8

Cold air from one and hot from the other.
And I have had the car up to temperature when I have tried every setting possible.
Yeah I was worried it might be a servo fault. Going to try sort the airlock tomorrow, see if that's helps. Smile

Phil01
Posting Freak
2,004
26-09-2018, 01:41 PM
#9
Defo sounds like a servo control fault, i have heard of this problem plenty of times before but can not remember the cure for it. I will try and find out and post up on here James. But do try the obvious first and get rid of the air.
The gurgling sound you hear from the heater is generally insufficient coolant and the noise is the coolant flow thro the matrix mixing with the air pocket at the highest level

sent from my Android SGS 2

1990 Eunos Roadster in Mariner DU blue
Cobalt cat back, Decat pipe, 15in Red Rota GT3 alloys, Toyo tyres, Lowered on Coil overs, Red anti roll bars, 14degree timing mod, white dash kit, illuminated side marker lights,
Halo ring headlights, OEM windblocker, Bluetooth streaming HU, Blue leather handbrake and gear lever gaitor, Centre brake/tail light mod, Blue velour door cards, Polished cam cover, Polished front strut bar, 4xheadrest speakers, JDM floor mats, Suede semi dish steering wheel,
Phil01
26-09-2018, 01:41 PM #9

Defo sounds like a servo control fault, i have heard of this problem plenty of times before but can not remember the cure for it. I will try and find out and post up on here James. But do try the obvious first and get rid of the air.
The gurgling sound you hear from the heater is generally insufficient coolant and the noise is the coolant flow thro the matrix mixing with the air pocket at the highest level

sent from my Android SGS 2


1990 Eunos Roadster in Mariner DU blue
Cobalt cat back, Decat pipe, 15in Red Rota GT3 alloys, Toyo tyres, Lowered on Coil overs, Red anti roll bars, 14degree timing mod, white dash kit, illuminated side marker lights,
Halo ring headlights, OEM windblocker, Bluetooth streaming HU, Blue leather handbrake and gear lever gaitor, Centre brake/tail light mod, Blue velour door cards, Polished cam cover, Polished front strut bar, 4xheadrest speakers, JDM floor mats, Suede semi dish steering wheel,

jimxms
Posting Freak
2,473
26-09-2018, 11:22 PM
#10
Just as an additional tidbit, I heard that if you're trying to bleed air out of the rad system it's best to do it with the front of the car jacked up in the air a bit. Either that or the car on an upwards gradient. Helps to separate the coolant from the air apparently.
jimxms
26-09-2018, 11:22 PM #10

Just as an additional tidbit, I heard that if you're trying to bleed air out of the rad system it's best to do it with the front of the car jacked up in the air a bit. Either that or the car on an upwards gradient. Helps to separate the coolant from the air apparently.

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