DIY: Lexus IS200 BiXenon projector retrofit

JapCarForum Car Manufacturers Lexus/Toyota DIY: Lexus IS200 BiXenon projector retrofit

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Matt_C
Senior Member

291

01-02-2022, 02:14 AM

#41

I know the US IS's have a bulb in the high beam reflector that is dim when using as DRL, and goes full brightness when using as high beam. If I'd done this projector install, I wouldn't need it to switch between dim and full brightness, I'd just want it dim (dimmer than the standard halogen low beam, but brighter than the standard sidelight), and I wouldn't want it as a DRL - just simply hook it unto the sidelight wiring, to replace the T10/501.

Lastly, 3) Is there a gap around the back of the shroud and the low beam reflector bowl? Hard to tell from the pics - if there is, is it noticeable?

Great write up Patrick, itching to do this myself now!

Matt_C

01-02-2022, 02:14 AM #41

This is exactly what I'm looking to do with mine! I really want that intense light output, but with the non-dazzling, no scatter, clean cut off. I like the idea of the bi-xenon function too, so I have couple questions;

1) Lets say I keep the high beam bulb in the reflector and plugged in as normal - how do I hook up the actuator wiring for the bi-xenon? Is it just tap directly into the wiring before the high beam plug?

2) If I decide not to keep the high beam bulb, and just use the bi-xenon function, is there a low wattage bulb, with the same/similar colour (I'll probably be going for OEM 4300k), that I could use in it's place to act as the sidelight function, and not be too bright or dazzling? Kinda like this;

[Image: vyvbl.jpg]

I know the US IS's have a bulb in the high beam reflector that is dim when using as DRL, and goes full brightness when using as high beam. If I'd done this projector install, I wouldn't need it to switch between dim and full brightness, I'd just want it dim (dimmer than the standard halogen low beam, but brighter than the standard sidelight), and I wouldn't want it as a DRL - just simply hook it unto the sidelight wiring, to replace the T10/501.

Lastly, 3) Is there a gap around the back of the shroud and the low beam reflector bowl? Hard to tell from the pics - if there is, is it noticeable?

Great write up Patrick, itching to do this myself now!

Matt_C
Senior Member

291

11-05-2022, 07:56 AM

#42

Really pleased with them. Ok, so they're cheap Chinese copies, and obviously not the same quality as you'd get from proper TRS Mini-Mori pro's, but for the most part they do the same thing - and the light output is so much better than xenon bulbs in regular reflector bulbs - all the scatter, patchy light and dark spots and jaggies are gone, now a nice, smooth, even glow across the road. Wider than the halogens were, although you get the illusion they don't throw as far (but that's because they have the horizontal cut off). I decided not to run these in "bi" mode (both dipped and high beam), and just run them as dipped beam instead - 1) because the halogen big beams throw slightly further (due to colour), 2) because with the halogens on, you don't really see the xenon high beam anyway, and 3) because they are from the cheap end of the scale, I don't want the cut-off shields (that flip down when high beam is activated, to allow the whole projector lens to output light) to get stuck or give up or anything. Thankfully when I wired these in, I did it using some spare HB3 harnesses, so I didn't cut into my standard wiring, so it was a simple case of unplugging the harnesses, plugging the stock connector directly back into the halogen HB3 bulbs, and tucking the solenoid/actuator wiring for the projectors out the way.

All in all, a worthwhile mod, and not a lot of outlay. The replacement headlights (that actually turned out to be better than the ones on the car, and didn't even need restoring) owe me £38, the projectors were around £27-£28, the H1 bulbs were a tenner, and a fiver for some chrome T20 indicator bulbs, so call it £80 all in.

Matt_C

11-05-2022, 07:56 AM #42

Well mine's done (actually last week, but hey). I wanted to do the USDM DRL mod (but only run as sidelights, not actually DRL) like in the pic above, but turns out, although it's do-able, it needs a fair bit of wiring with relays, hench resistors and wiring into both the engine bay and footwell fuseboxes, so I decided not to. Shame, cos it looks awesome!

So instead I just kept the stock configuration and just replaced the HB4 dipped beams with projectors, same as Patrik has;

[Image: 2w7e7mq.jpg]

[Image: ok20s4.jpg]

[Image: r26ds8.jpg]

[Image: 1zokx7q.jpg]

[Image: akzxhz.jpg]

[Image: 24y8w2e.jpg]

Really pleased with them. Ok, so they're cheap Chinese copies, and obviously not the same quality as you'd get from proper TRS Mini-Mori pro's, but for the most part they do the same thing - and the light output is so much better than xenon bulbs in regular reflector bulbs - all the scatter, patchy light and dark spots and jaggies are gone, now a nice, smooth, even glow across the road. Wider than the halogens were, although you get the illusion they don't throw as far (but that's because they have the horizontal cut off). I decided not to run these in "bi" mode (both dipped and high beam), and just run them as dipped beam instead - 1) because the halogen big beams throw slightly further (due to colour), 2) because with the halogens on, you don't really see the xenon high beam anyway, and 3) because they are from the cheap end of the scale, I don't want the cut-off shields (that flip down when high beam is activated, to allow the whole projector lens to output light) to get stuck or give up or anything. Thankfully when I wired these in, I did it using some spare HB3 harnesses, so I didn't cut into my standard wiring, so it was a simple case of unplugging the harnesses, plugging the stock connector directly back into the halogen HB3 bulbs, and tucking the solenoid/actuator wiring for the projectors out the way.

All in all, a worthwhile mod, and not a lot of outlay. The replacement headlights (that actually turned out to be better than the ones on the car, and didn't even need restoring) owe me £38, the projectors were around £27-£28, the H1 bulbs were a tenner, and a fiver for some chrome T20 indicator bulbs, so call it £80 all in.

Sparkystav
Administrator

14,683

11-05-2022, 02:16 PM

#43

Looks a good job mate, you got a link to the ones you've used.?

Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.

OutlawJapClub Admin Team

Sparkystav

11-05-2022, 02:16 PM #43

Looks a good job mate, you got a link to the ones you've used.?

Read my thread here: The Evolution of my Turbo Lexus from NA-Supercharged-Twin Turbo-Massive Single
Please leave your comments.

OutlawJapClub Admin Team

P.Lindblom
Posting Freak

821

17-03-2023, 11:55 AM

#44

Here's the kit I bought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181344042858 - As far as I understand it's pretty much an exact copy of the Morimoto Mini H1 kit from TRS.

It comes with everything you need, plus a bunch of things you won't need... and two metal brackets that I have no idea what they are for.
[Image: DSC_5524_fix2.jpg]

The first thing you need to do is disassemble your headlights. There are plenty of guides on how to bake and open headlights, so I won't go into details on that.
[Image: DSC_5531_fix.jpg]

Here's what the lens looks like when separated from the rest of the headlight.
[Image: DSC_5536_fix.jpg]

Here's an insert. If you want them black or any other color now would be a perfect time to paint them since you won't need them until you're reassembling your headlight.
[Image: DSC_5537_fix.jpg]

The amber piece just pops out of the insert, so there's no need for masking. I would, however, sand down the chrome a bit to make the paint stick better.
[Image: DSC_5542_fix.jpg]

Here's a painted insert with the amper piece reattached. You could also leave them off and use orange indicator bulbs instead.
[Image: DSC_5540_fix.jpg]

Anyway, this is the part of the headlights you need to concentrate on. The next step is to remove the little caps in the low beam reflectors. You might be able to do so without removing the reflectors, but it's certainly easier if you do.
[Image: DSC_5546_fix.jpg]

The reflectors are held in place by the two adjusting screws in these two pictures.
[Image: DSC_5549_fix.jpg]

Unscrew them from the back of the housings, using an 8mm socket.
[Image: DSC_5553_fix.jpg]

Now there's only one thing holding the reflectors in place. It's hard to explain how, but it's easily detached with a bit of wiggling.
[Image: DSC_5563_fix.jpg]

It's also a good idea to remove the rubber sealings on the back of the housings.
[Image: DSC_5565_fix.jpg]

Here's a very naked housing.
[Image: DSC_5566_fix.jpg]

And the reflectors.
[Image: DSC_5568_fix.jpg]

This is the cap you need to remove.
[Image: DSC_5570_fix.jpg]

Do so by unfolding its tabs on the back of the low beam reflector
[Image: DSC_5571_fix.jpg]

P.Lindblom

17-03-2023, 11:55 AM #44

Since the links are dead in the OP, here's the guide again. If a mod sees this, could you please replace the the first to posts with these, or allow me to edit my old posts and update all the links?

__________________________________

This is a mod I've been wanting to do for years, but since it doesn't comply with MOT rules I haven't found it worth doing. However, when I discovered there are really cheap, complete kits available on Ebay I couldn't resist. I bought a kit to make this DIY. I won't install it permanently on my IS200 since I don't use it anymore and I'm thinking about selling it. Fortunately I had an old spare headlight lying around, collecting dust.

After a bit of wet sanding and polishing it looked decent enough.
[Image: DSC_5503_fix.jpg]

Here's the kit I bought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181344042858 - As far as I understand it's pretty much an exact copy of the Morimoto Mini H1 kit from TRS.

It comes with everything you need, plus a bunch of things you won't need... and two metal brackets that I have no idea what they are for.
[Image: DSC_5524_fix2.jpg]

The first thing you need to do is disassemble your headlights. There are plenty of guides on how to bake and open headlights, so I won't go into details on that.
[Image: DSC_5531_fix.jpg]

Here's what the lens looks like when separated from the rest of the headlight.
[Image: DSC_5536_fix.jpg]

Here's an insert. If you want them black or any other color now would be a perfect time to paint them since you won't need them until you're reassembling your headlight.
[Image: DSC_5537_fix.jpg]

The amber piece just pops out of the insert, so there's no need for masking. I would, however, sand down the chrome a bit to make the paint stick better.
[Image: DSC_5542_fix.jpg]

Here's a painted insert with the amper piece reattached. You could also leave them off and use orange indicator bulbs instead.
[Image: DSC_5540_fix.jpg]

Anyway, this is the part of the headlights you need to concentrate on. The next step is to remove the little caps in the low beam reflectors. You might be able to do so without removing the reflectors, but it's certainly easier if you do.
[Image: DSC_5546_fix.jpg]

The reflectors are held in place by the two adjusting screws in these two pictures.
[Image: DSC_5549_fix.jpg]

[Image: DSC_5550_fix.jpg]

Unscrew them from the back of the housings, using an 8mm socket.
[Image: DSC_5553_fix.jpg]

[Image: DSC_5558_fix.jpg]

[Image: DSC_5562_fix.jpg]

Now there's only one thing holding the reflectors in place. It's hard to explain how, but it's easily detached with a bit of wiggling.
[Image: DSC_5563_fix.jpg]

It's also a good idea to remove the rubber sealings on the back of the housings.
[Image: DSC_5565_fix.jpg]

Here's a very naked housing.
[Image: DSC_5566_fix.jpg]

And the reflectors.
[Image: DSC_5568_fix.jpg]

This is the cap you need to remove.
[Image: DSC_5570_fix.jpg]

Do so by unfolding its tabs on the back of the low beam reflector
[Image: DSC_5571_fix.jpg]

[Image: DSC_5572_fix.jpg]

P.Lindblom
Posting Freak

821

17-03-2023, 11:55 AM

#45

Now the fun part begins. It's time to unpack your shiny projectors.
[Image: DSC_5573_fix.jpg]

Remove the three screws holding the bulb holder in place.
[Image: DSC_5574_fix.jpg]

I also removed the four screws for the shroud. That was, however, mostly out of curiosity. You're better of leaving the shroud on.
[Image: DSC_5575_fix.jpg]

If you're not afraid of splicing wires, cut off the connector for the high beam actuator. This way you can run the wires through one of the holes for the low beam cap you removed earlier.
[Image: DSC_5582_fix.jpg]

The threaded part of the projector fits nicely through the hole in the low beam reflector. Secure it using the strange looking nut.
[Image: DSC_5584_fix.jpg]

Make a tiny hole in the rubber sealing, for the wires, and replace it. Reattach the bulb holder.
[Image: DSC_5586_fix.jpg]

Fit the xenon bulb
[Image: DSC_5587_fix.jpg]

Here's the projector, nicely secured in the headlight housing.
[Image: DSC_5588_fix.jpg]

There are several different ways of aligning retrofitted projectors. One way is to simply reinstall the lensless headlights on the car and twist the projectors by hand until the cutoff is horizontal. Then, of course, tighten the nuts some more to make sure the projectors won't move. Another way is to make a simple bracket for the headlights, point them against a white wall and mark the cutoff before fitting the projectors. Then use the markings to align them again just before fitting the headlight lenses again.

Since I don't plan on using my projectors I didn't put a lot of energy into aligning them. When you feel like you're done just remove the xenon bulb, reattach the headlight insert and lens and bake the headlight again. This is what you'll end up with.
[Image: DSC_5509_fix.jpg]

Or this.

Before fitting the headlight to my car I just connected it to make sure it worked. Connect the HID ballasts to your low beam connectors and the actuator wires to the high beam connector.
[Image: DSC_5514_fix2.jpg]

Then I couldn't resist fitting the headlight.
[Image: DSC_5637_fix.jpg]

I made a video showing the end result. As you can see the leveling motor works just like before.
[youtube]fGUZ9Co1VEw[/youtube]

There are a few advantages with these BiXenon projectors.

First of all you get both low and high beam from the same bulb. This means there won't be a delay when you switch to high beam. The actuator is even faster than the standard halogen bulb.
The main beam reflector isn't needed anymore. You can paint it black, you can fit some sort of a DRL light in it or you can keep the 65W halogen bulb if you want even more light from the high beam.
The best thing is, of course, the beam pattern. It so much better than the lousy IS200 reflectors.

Unfortunately I don't have a large white wall to show you the cutoff on. The closest thing I've got is a white car. Not ideal, but you'll get an idea.

Here's a picture I took with the projector headlight off. This is the amount of light you get from the standard halogen low beam.
[Image: DSC_5632_fix.jpg]

This picture was taken using the same shutter speed and aperture, but with only the projector light on. As you can see it's a lot brighter and the cutoff is really sharp.
[Image: DSC_5630_fix.jpg]

There you have it. Feel free to ask anything about the install and let me know if you want pictures of specific parts. Tomorrow afternoon I will remove the projector and return my converted headlight to stock. That's another good thing about this kit. You don't make any permanent changes to your headlights by converting them.

Edited 27-04-2016, 09:40 PM by P.Lindblom.

P.Lindblom

17-03-2023, 11:55 AM #45

Now the fun part begins. It's time to unpack your shiny projectors.
[Image: DSC_5573_fix.jpg]

Remove the three screws holding the bulb holder in place.
[Image: DSC_5574_fix.jpg]

I also removed the four screws for the shroud. That was, however, mostly out of curiosity. You're better of leaving the shroud on.
[Image: DSC_5575_fix.jpg]

[Image: DSC_5578_fix.jpg]

If you're not afraid of splicing wires, cut off the connector for the high beam actuator. This way you can run the wires through one of the holes for the low beam cap you removed earlier.
[Image: DSC_5582_fix.jpg]

The threaded part of the projector fits nicely through the hole in the low beam reflector. Secure it using the strange looking nut.
[Image: DSC_5584_fix.jpg]

Make a tiny hole in the rubber sealing, for the wires, and replace it. Reattach the bulb holder.
[Image: DSC_5586_fix.jpg]

Fit the xenon bulb
[Image: DSC_5587_fix.jpg]

Here's the projector, nicely secured in the headlight housing.
[Image: DSC_5588_fix.jpg]

[Image: DSC_5589_fix.jpg]

There are several different ways of aligning retrofitted projectors. One way is to simply reinstall the lensless headlights on the car and twist the projectors by hand until the cutoff is horizontal. Then, of course, tighten the nuts some more to make sure the projectors won't move. Another way is to make a simple bracket for the headlights, point them against a white wall and mark the cutoff before fitting the projectors. Then use the markings to align them again just before fitting the headlight lenses again.

Since I don't plan on using my projectors I didn't put a lot of energy into aligning them. When you feel like you're done just remove the xenon bulb, reattach the headlight insert and lens and bake the headlight again. This is what you'll end up with.
[Image: DSC_5509_fix.jpg]

Or this.
[Image: DSC_5511_fix.jpg]

Before fitting the headlight to my car I just connected it to make sure it worked. Connect the HID ballasts to your low beam connectors and the actuator wires to the high beam connector.
[Image: DSC_5514_fix2.jpg]

[Image: DSC_5518_fix.jpg]

Then I couldn't resist fitting the headlight.
[Image: DSC_5637_fix.jpg]

I made a video showing the end result. As you can see the leveling motor works just like before.
[youtube]fGUZ9Co1VEw[/youtube]

There are a few advantages with these BiXenon projectors.

First of all you get both low and high beam from the same bulb. This means there won't be a delay when you switch to high beam. The actuator is even faster than the standard halogen bulb.
The main beam reflector isn't needed anymore. You can paint it black, you can fit some sort of a DRL light in it or you can keep the 65W halogen bulb if you want even more light from the high beam.
The best thing is, of course, the beam pattern. It so much better than the lousy IS200 reflectors.

This picture was taken using the same shutter speed and aperture, but with only the projector light on. As you can see it's a lot brighter and the cutoff is really sharp.
[Image: DSC_5630_fix.jpg]