Is200 Kompressor
Is200 Kompressor
So today i have rigged the cable from the throttle body to the diesel valve.
More for curiosity than anything as this is similar to what the MX5 lot do.
Drives very n/a, bypass is still vacuum rigged.
I will fiddle with this set up a little more see if theres any joy to be had with it...
Meanwhile progress on de-catting
Spare manifold has been gutted and off for welding back up (Y)
rob I also never had any problems when using a vacuum based bypass valve. ONLY difference was acceleration as the valve closed earlier.
rob I also never had any problems when using a vacuum based bypass valve. ONLY difference was acceleration as the valve closed earlier.
In reply to the above.
I'm running 3psi absoloute maximum.
I'm spinning the s/c at less max rpm than the TTE kit with stock pulley.
Yet the vacuum bypass setup is giving me ignition cut/"limp mode"... am I a special case?
Or is this a combination of the pre-cats cooking themselves aswell.
Either way, after rigging the "diesel valve" as a cable operated secondary throttle body I don't seem to be suffering the power cutting issue (Y) Good Stuff!
My Theory;
Pre-cats began to deteriorate a while a go.
The symptoms went undiagnosed long enough for the exhaust to develop a leak after the manifold (before the 3rd/last O2 sensor), causing no fault codes or engine light.
At some point in time, with a couple of small boost leaks ceased, it caused the ignition cutting issue (still no engine light down to stiffer bypass spring?).
The symptoms did not correllate with a restricted exhaust, it was a complete, and sudden loss of power, not a restriction causing missing & spluttering. Seeing 1 psi in the manifold while the car was displaying these symptoms at WOT. Now. Reinforces the car cutting the ignition in danger of running lean.
Shabro - In regard to the pre-cats, I got a spare manifold and cut it open if thats what you mean. Or, adding the supercharger it's quite common on the IS's to cook the living daylights out of internals of the pre-cat. (Y)
Time for a rant;
After tweaking and thrashing (& repeating) with the cable rigged diesel valve. I thought I had it perfected. The bypass still in place & vac operated. Until, out of nowhere, it cut out again. Halfway pulling out of a roundabout - Not ideal. Getting sick of it now.
So, after raiding the bike spares at work for cables and misc I set about revising (tidying) my cable set up and rigging the bypass valve.
Cable holder for the bypass (Y)
Much smoother/neater bracket and adjuster on TB side (Y)
First set up at bypass - After snapping 3 drill bits and blunting the rest, I could not get through actuating arm/plate on the spindle of the bypass. Must be hardened steel or something ridiculous. Would ideally like a longer arm for the cable to pull on, but I couldnt tap a thread or even make a hole in the first place. Without being able to weld. This is how the set up is for the foreseeable.
Issues are;
- 2k rpm idle and over rev when changing gear, even when upto operating temp. Have no boost leaks that i can see. Bypass butterfly wide open at tick over. Diesel valve removed.
All I have to try for curiosity is plumbing diesel valve back in. Or...
Running the cable off the motorized spindle on TB. (helped massively with the diesel valve, running the actuating arm off the throttle cable pulley, slight delay between the two while TB butterfly opened, allowed a little extra air to fill the piping - Throttle response)
All else fails - Back to N/A goodness
Cheers for the offer, but i've still got my original "new" tuned one sat aside. The above is an ebay spare to work/test on
Cable bypass has been working beaut after some tweaking now (Y)
Not a fan of how "tame" it is, it's almost too driveable haha
All is well - UNTIL. ONCE AGAIN. Ignition cut - FFS
Still no codes, bypass rigged as per TTE, has had two throttle bodies swapped over, getting fuel, not even hitting anywhere near fuel cut parameters, fresh plugs (gapped), cam sensor well within parameters, crank sensor well within parameters, no fault codes or pending codes...
It's gotta be an electronic issue.
It's "intermittent" only arises after a mile or two or thrashing - Heat/Boost related.
What other parameters can cause the ECU to cut ignition?